So you're working on your Snow plough or your Wood chipper
or your Excavator or your Skid steer loader and you blow a hydraulic hose. So you've got a couple
of options, you can take the hose off and take it into the hydraulic shop wherever that may be,
or you can call someone out and they can repair the hose for you, or you can do it yourself. If you've
got a big project where you're replacing a bunch of hoses that are worn this will also help you.
So as an example we've got some half inch two wire hydraulic hose here
it's rated to 4000 psi, we've also got what we call some Field Fit hydraulic fittings
So Field Fit means you can do it yourself with very basic tools and these basic tools are, a couple of
wrenches or spanners or even an adjustable wrench. What else do you need? some compressed
air would help, a fine-tooth hacksaw is plan B, plan A is a cut-off saw or a grinder, A tape measure is also handy
Normal grease, nothing fancy, you don't need to use rubber grease, normal wheel bearing grease is
good, a vise really helps and soft jaws really help, but not essential but they help so let's
assemble a Field Fit fitting onto a piece of hydraulic hose just to so you see how
easy it is. These are JIC 3/4 JIC this is a 3/4" JIC female
with a 1/2 inch tail designed to fit onto the 1/2 inch hose this is a 3/4 inch JIC male
with a 1/2inch tail again designed to fit onto a 1/2 inch two-wire hose specifically a hose
manufactured to SAE100R2 specifications all right, so first stage on your vise
again desirable but not essential (Soft Jaws) so a little bit of lube
on the outside of the hose is the first stage make sure your hose is cut nice and square
and what you want to do if you look inside this fitting here
on this side of the fitting
there's actually a spiral there's a row of spiral teeth in there that's actually left
hand thread so you have to screw the hose opposite to how you'd normally
screw it in so normally you'd screw to the right now we actually have to screw to the left
and you keep on screwing in
until you feel resistance
as you can see that hose is bottomed out inside the fitting that's actually
too far away so we need to actually back it off a minimum of half a turn
so half a turn if the writing is on the top
screw it clockwise
so that the writing's on the bottom, okay check if there's a bit of clearance and
that's important because you need to allow for expansion of the hose, let's have a look at that
okay so
firmly clamp it in the vise, again the vise is great but not essential if
you're really out in the bush or the forest you're gonna have to do this
supporting it on your knees a little lubricant inside down the hose
it's important that you have a wrench that fits nicely on the hex
or in this case you could also use an adjustable wrench
okay but it's always preferable if you have use the correct wrench ring spanner also works just
make sure the ring spanner fits over both nuts otherwise you're going to be in dramas
no problem
If it starts to get tight means you're getting close
okay
Here we are one end is done if you actually feel this body it's actually got warm from
the friction we've just created in assembling this component, that's perfectly normal, so
If you want a specific length of hose,
In this case the hose is just under 45 inches long, including the fitting on the end here
if we wanted for example the hose to end to be exactly 40 inches long
how do we do that? So i'll show you another thing I failed to mention
is that you really need something that will provide some contrast when you mark the hose
we use a an industrial crayon
to leave a good mark now this is actually our finished length okay but if we cut it there
when we assemble
the hose
you're going to find that when it's assembled it's going to be
up to an inch longer than it needs to be so what we need to do is
mark the hose because we know that the hose will probably end up the end of the hose will
probably end up somewhere there okay so if we want the finished length to be 40 inches
we need to cut around between the E and the R i'm going to
mark around the E and i'm going to cut around the E
Leave yourself a little bit of room
you can do this with a fine-tooth Hacksaw you'll find that your hacksaw blades
don't last very long but it is possible, I much prefer the grinder because it's quick
and clean or relatively clean there will be some residual grinding dust, some residual steel
dust, from the wires and that's why we need the compressed air to actually clean it out, so just
well that's the grinder makes a very clean cut
so while it's in here now let's just blast it clean with Air
The procedure starts all over again
put the body
in the vise
Lubricate the rubber on the outside
back it off half a turn
lubricate inside the hose
lubricate the thread
lubricate the tail
so this is a male JIC 3/4 inch
designed to fit onto 1/2 inch two-wire hose and has a 3/4 inch male JIC threaded end
so what's the beauty of a male
you can connect it to a female
so
you can connect one hose to another hose, you can also, use two males sorry I mean two females with a
male/male nipple but it's the quickest and effective way if you've got a piece of damaged hose
and you want to cut out the damaged section, you cut out the damaged section and you screw a male on
on one end and a female into the other, you reconnect them together, and you can continue to work
this is particularly important especially if this hose snakes through a machine and it goes from
6 yards in that direction and 12 yards in that direction find the damage section cut the damage
section out, put a male on one end and a female on the other, connect them together. Let's just see
if we've made a 40 inch long hose
that's the 40 mark, how close were we to the 40 inches it's pretty ....... close to me.
So that's it guys, these are
available from our website www.valvehalla.com
we ship out of Ohio or Texas go onto the website, we have a bunch of other stuff there and
are adding stuff all the time, again details and links in the description below
thanks for watching and have an awesome day, bye for now.
you