Today on the Hobby Grotto we're painting a Warhammer fantasy dwarf from 1984!
There's no better place to start than with the base coats and with the clothing i'm going for that classic
imperial dwarf look of yellow red and blue, very bold colors, and very middlehammer which is my
inspiration with this piece. This dwarf is an old school miniature from 1984, possibly the
oldest many in my collection and i absolutely love the design of these older dwarves they're
so characterful so fun and they just really represent that era of the hobby for me perfectly.
i'm applying all these base coats with multiple thin coats which is very important with the
layering style so don't forget to keep these paints lightly watered down. I'm also making sure
to get the blue in these tiny clothing slits now because that's going to be a nightmare to do later.
For the skin i'm adding a little spot of screamer pink to the Cadian fleshtone here
just to give a bit more of a ruddy color which i think is very appropriate for dwarves because
i didn't have any bugman's glow on hand but you can use that instead if you've got it.
because the other parts of the model are going to be nice and bright i'm creating some contrast
with a darker silver for the metal bits, iron warriors is probably my favorite color for base
coating any silver metal it's a great paint, as well as some classic rhinox hide for the straps,
shoes, beard, and other bits and bobs again to create that contrast with the colourful clothing.
Speaking of classic the Nuln Oil shade can't go wrong we'll build up the layers
from these darkened base colours in the following stages of the process
but before that let's sort out the eyes so we don't get white and black paint all over
our lovely layers there. Always try and get the eyes sorted early on much less stress that way.
now it's time for layers lots of layers firstly with our base coats because we don't want
everything to be quite as dark as it is with the Nuln Oil but we're not repainting all of
it here it's important to leave all the darkened base coats around for the first level of shading.
Not only that but this base layer that i'm repainting is also going
to help make our subsequent layers a bit more consistent and vibrant.
all colors can benefit from this once over but i don't always repaint smaller secondary
colors like the brown on straps in this way because even when hobbying time is money!
we've already got a nice base for the yellow with the XV-88 and now we're going to start to layer on
the Averland Sunset,the greatest of all GW yellows such coverage such tone. Yellow is a tricky color
but i often try to use it with my paint schemes because it looks so bold and spectacular
i'm bringing some more saturation to the color with Yriel Yellow
i often prefer a slightly more muted yellow so i'm not going overboard here
but uh it's going to look brighter than it's going to end up with this color because later
on when i do some highlights mixed with white it's going to tone the color back down a bit.
yellow often requires more layers than other colors so just be sure
your paint's nice and thin for this stage.
so GW have a great range of red paints I reckon
which make this color a breeze so we're just working up here with mephiston red,
and this tunic is covered in texture so it's nice and simple to paint
and then i'm hitting it with some Evil Sunz Scarlet to really punch up the vibrancy
this color also has a bit of orange to it which is the kind of red i'm going for
i want it to look nice and old school very much a part of the aptly named red period.
Hey I just realized i forgot to paint the emblem on the shield better quickly fix that up
and this is one of the great things about using a wet palette you've got all your
previous colors there ready to go to make any adjustments, brilliant!
if you're not using a wet palette i really do recommend them and there's
a link as well in the video description if you if you want to check them out.
i've mixed some Lothern Blue with the Caledor Sky to do another layer here about 50 50 but always check
these mixes on a small part of the mini first just to check it's not too bright, personally i
always usually mix a bit brighter because i keep my paints very thin so just keep an eye on that
the shield had a texture on it too so i'm just adding a little bit of stippling there
i want to keep the beard nice and dark i almost don't want to highlight it at all really um it's
looking kind of good with a Nuln Oil wash but we're going to bring back some color with
rhinox hide, this is the main attraction for dwarves so we have to give it a bit of love
and then i'm going to do some very sparing highlights with XV-88 which is quite a few
shades up from Rhinox Hide but i think for heavily textured things this kind of jump works
you know i always give the skin a lot of attention on a model because it's a focal
point particularly on the face and no more so than on a model like this where it's basically all face
uh i'm mixing the first layer of Kislev Flesh with some Cadian Fleshtone
so it's not too much of a jump in color and i'm being careful to build this up
with thin layers because you don't want any thick paint on faces that's that's a no-go.
next up is pure Kislev Flesh, I think on faces you can afford to be a bit more extreme with the
highlights and really emphasize the details be really careful here not to hit the eyes
with these layers i do that a bit more than i'd like
Kislev Flesh also has a bit more of a yellowy tone to it so
it's going to leave that more pinky kind of color in the recesses.
the final highlight on the face has some white mixed in with the Kislev Flesh
and i'm keeping this to the most extreme points not only on the face
but also on areas like the knuckles and the edges of the fingers
the hands are another focal point of the mini so um it's really important to give them some good
highlights i'm glazing some pink onto the nose now and my big head is also coming to shot here
again so i was clearly not looking at my monitor a simple little touch like this can add a lot
of character to a model uh just make sure it's very thin because you can always add more on but
difficult to take it off, particularly once you've highlighted the face i usually do this in three or
four layers so if you barely notice anything with the first coat that's a really good consistency
if you don't have contrast paint you can use regular pink something like a
screamer pink would be a good match just use more medium in the mix and get it nice and thin.
final highlights starting with some Ironbreaker for the metal.
edge highlighting is probably my least favorite part of the process because
it's so fiddly but you know it's also nice seeing everything finally coming together.
Pure Lothern Blue here and I always like to say with the final highlights
don't get carried away you don't even really need them for a tabletop standard minis
and it's really easy to get bogged down in this stage i don't kind of highlight every surface
and don't highlight every edge i just kind of keep the highlights to the the key edges.
White mixed with yellow is great for emphasizing the detail of the clothing
particularly on this kind of old-school slash clothing where you really want to
get around those little edges and it also tones down
the saturation of the Yriel Yellow while still providing a nice distinct highlight.
the amount of white that you put in is going to kind of affect you know the end result
um and depends on how muted you want it another option for yellow is you can you can actually
highlight it with a bone style color which is also going to give that muted effect
i don't want the red highlight to be too pale or pink so i'm mixing some yellow
with the evil sunz scarlet which is a great general practice for highlighting with red
if it turns out too orange in the end you can always you know glaze it back with some red.
i think it's easy to go too far when highlighting red so just see how you go but
for me a bit more of an orangey red's gonna work better with this miniature anyway.
as a final touch i'm adding a few quick highlights to the brown areas
and mixing a bone color in like this creates a nice faded effect for the leather.
i'm keeping the highlights minimal on these areas though because um they aren't a focal
point of the model never waste too much time painting boots i reckon!
my classic dwarf from 1984 is complete, what a fantastic miniature the character of these
old sculpts was just astounding and i can't wait to have my entire dream army painted up
in this scheme... one day! Thanks so much for watching hope you enjoyed the tutorial as
well as a potential trip down memory lane and we'll see you next time on the Hobby Grotto!