what's up guys so one thing I've noticed down in the comments recently is a lot
of you are talking about seracote all I hear is seracote seracote's Eriko so
just because of you guys I am gonna try my hand at it and I already know this is
gonna be one of my funnest projects yet I went ahead and bought everything to do
the sarah coding and I'm gonna try it on these triple clamps back here and from
what I've heard it's pretty similar to powder coating as far as the process but
there's this more prep work involved with it
I've got these triple clamps all smoothed out and these should look
amazing Sarah coated since I was doing some
grinding and polishing on these triples earlier I'm gonna have to meticulously
clean them before I do any type of coating so the first step is to clean
them with degreaser and a brush and then I'm gonna soak them in acetone for 30
minutes and of course you always want to have a test piece so I'll be testing out
the process on this front master cylinder cap and make sure you stick
around for the whole video I'll be giving it away once it's all finished up
oh and in case you didn't notice I had to pull the lower bearing off the triple
clamp I'll have a video on replacing the steering stem bearing is coming up
pretty soon before I messed around with the triple clamps anymore I'm gonna run
through the process on the master cylinder cap just gonna give it a sand
before I start prepping it for seracote I've got this rubber sanding drum that
goes on the buffer works really well for sanding and smoothing out aluminum and
what this is going to do is remove all the lettering on the master cylinder cap
gonna give it a really cool look
man that already looks incredible I'm tempted to not even seracote it so since
I was using grease to sand it I'm gonna have to clean it really well with the
greaser and acetone the next step is to soak the part in acetone for 30 minutes
and what this is gonna do is remove any remaining dirt oil and grease just gonna
fill up this tub with the acetone and keep in mind all the supplies used
throughout the video are linked down in the description as you can imagine
acetone in a plastic tub do not mix very well started melting the plastic so
instead I'm gonna have to use something metal all right so I've had the part
soaking for a good 20 or 30 minutes I'm just gonna pull it out and let it dry up
here on the the top of the paint tray and once it's dry I'm gonna stand blast
it it's pretty crazy how fast the acetone evaporates off the part so you
definitely don't want to leave acetone out in the open for too long from here
on out whenever I'm handling the part I'll be wearing a set of powder free
gloves and that'll keep the oil in my skin from getting on the part which
could affect the finish so here's a new addition to the shop just picked up a
cheap little Harbor Freight sand blaster and this thing will work perfect for the
little amount that I'll use it and what I've gotten here is an aluminum oxide
media and you definitely want to make sure you have a clean abrasive to start
with if there's any oil or grease in the abrasive that'll contaminate the part as
well so this is my first time using the cabinet I'll let you know how it
performs
so the blaster seemed to work pretty well got a nice even finish on the cover
now I'm just gonna blow it off the air compressor and run it through a gas out
in the oven alright what I'm gonna do is run the cap through the oven for 60
minutes at 300 degrees and what this is gonna do is burn off any remaining oil
and solvents on the part so as you can imagine the part has to be extremely
clean for the sarah coating to stick so the 60 minutes is up on this piece I'm
gonna pull it out and check it over all right what I'm looking for here is any
oil residue coming to the surface if anything shows up I'll have to resew kit
and acetone and gas it out in the oven once again looks like it's good to go
and it's all ready to spray out so here are the seracote materials this is the
color which is a burnt bronze and I'll be mixing it with the catalyst here in
the cylinder and the color will have to be shaken up pretty good before I do any
mixing alright I've got the color all shaken up and for this test project I'm
just gonna mix up a little bit of material and now I've got to figure out
at what ratio to mix it here's a little chart that seracote provides for the
mixture ratio I'm gonna go with middle the road a satin finish so 18 to 1 ratio
and then down here is a chart that gives an estimate of how much material you'll
need this project is going to be pretty small so I'm just gonna use 18 cc's of
seracote 2 1 CC of hardener and one thing to keep in mind is the shelf life
on these materials once they're mixed is only about two hours so you got to knock
the project out pretty quick I'm going to start by pouring in 18 cc's of the
color first
and then next up is one CC of the catalyst now to mix up the materials
just gonna place a glove make sure it's a powder free glove over the top of the
cylinder and then to shake it up a bunch the seracote is all mixed up and ready
to go into the gun the gun I'm using is actually an airbrush which worked great
on the smaller parts I'm cutting and you'll definitely want to use a
regulator for this project I'll put the links to where you can buy all these
supplies down in the description so for you guys that are gonna try sarah coding
make sure you click those links and get the stuff you need as soon as I pour the
Sarah Koh into the gun I'll be all ready to spray this is gonna be way more
material than I'll actually need but you know what pretty sure I got the ratios
right so that's all that matters so they recommend filling the container up only
about half the way
and then as far as the pressure goes seracote recommends spurring at 20 to 25
psi before I do any spraying on the part we're gonna test the flow on the
cardboard here so I've got it set right at 20 psi and I'm gonna adjust the
nozzle here until I got the flow right where I want it a little little to dry
right there little bit more from what I've read you want to be able to wet the
part with one pass if you go too light you'll end up with a sandpaper like
finish so right about there looks good so usually you want to spray the most
difficult areas on the part first however with this cap it's pretty simple
so it doesn't really matter where I start should probably cover up this dirt
bike stand so I don't paint that as well
it's a little too dry so I'm gonna open that valve up a little bit more actually
with this part I'm gonna spray the edges of it first
looks like I've got a pretty even coat on here basically you want enough of a
coat to wear it's still wet when it goes in the oven into the oven we go
before I put the part in the oven I'll let it sit for about 15 minutes and now
that it's in I'm gonna bake it at 300 degrees for a full hour I cannot wait to
see the result of this an hour has gone by with a cap in the oven I'm gonna pull
this thing out let it cool down and then check it out
dang that is a super cool color I cannot wait to get the triple clamps looking
like that so the cover is all cooled off and it turned out awesome really happy
with this color but upon closer inspection looks like there's a bit of a
hazy look up on top here and I'm thinking I didn't get a thick enough
coat on there so I have to keep that in mind on the triple clamps it is time to
move on to the triple clamps I'm gonna clean up this top clamp with the greaser
and a brush
and just like the master cylinder cap I'm gonna soak the triple clamp in
acetone for 30 minutes
all right just gonna follow the same process with this one pull it out of the
acetone let it dry sandblast it and then gas it off in the oven
at this point I've got the top triple clamp completely sandblasted and it's
hanging from the rack now just got this bolt threaded in securing the wire into
place the next step is the gas set out in the oven at 300 degrees for a full
hour
I'm all set up to spray the top triple clamp got to make sure I spray it on a
little bit thicker this time but definitely not to the point where it's
going to drool
I ended up doing two coats on this triple clamp just to make sure I've got
enough coverage so I started on the bottom side hit all those tight crevices
and then moved on to the top side I think I've got it pretty good right now
just gonna wait 15 minutes and then toss it in the oven all right guys it is the
moment of truth I am so excited to see how this top triple clamp turned out you
better believe it I am using scotch brite pad as oven
mitts all right I've got the bottom triple clamp all cleaned up and it's
been through the acetone soak and it's ready for sandblasting so there's
certain areas on this triple clamp that I don't want a sandblast namely the stem
here where the lower bearing sits so I'm gonna mask that off with high heat
masking tape that way it holds up in the oven as well one cool thing about steric
coating that I haven't talked about yet is that it doesn't leave much of a
surface buildup like powder coating the layer is very very thin so things like
threads and the fork mounting surface do not need to be masked off for Sarah
coating however just to be cautious I'm gonna mask off the surface where the
bottom steering stem bearing sits
well guys I've got the bottom triple clamp all gassed out sandblasted and
ready to spray let's knock it out
I've got a couple solid coats on the bottom triple clamp but the next time I
spray seracote I'll definitely need a better setup than this it is so tough
trying to spray in all those tight areas with carts on either side and it being
so close to the ground but it worked at the time being a couple more minutes and
this thing will be ready to go into the oven just pulled the bottom triple clamp
out of the oven and man does this thing ever look good gonna wait for it to cool
down and then peel off the masking tape and take a closer look at it
well guys that is that triple clamps are all finished up and for my first
go-around I am more than stoked with the finish such a cool process and result I
guess only time will tell to see how they hold up for this top
triple clamp I'm gonna put the emblem back on just gonna use some double-sided
tape on it and stick it right back in the center where it belongs that is such
a clean look
now your reward for watching the whole video is I'll be giving away this master
cylinder cap to one of you guys hold on a second all you have to do to enter to
win this cap is the comment down below whether you prefer two-stroke or
four-stroke let the debate begin and then I'm gonna go through and pick one
you guys at random and this cap will be yours you can use it for a decoration or
put it on your bike it'll work on any Honda 96 the current that has a
hydraulic from brake system well this was a good time I want to say thank you
for joining me on this little journey and I would appreciate it if I get all
of you to give that like button a little tap I will see you in an upcoming video