Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette! In today's video, we'll discuss the
various materials used to make pocket squares, the different techniques used to
finish the edges, the pros and cons of each, and which might be best for you.
Longtime fans of our Channel and readers of our website are sure to know that
we're big fans of pocket squares here at the Gentleman's Gazette, that's because
it's a small accessory that makes a big difference! Not only will wearing a
quality pocket square immediately give a visual signifier that you care about
your appearance but also as a man of classic style, it will allow you one more
point of experimentation with colors, patterns, and textures in your outfits.
Even better, you don't have to do a lot of fussing with them to put one into
your pocket, they can take just 10 seconds or even less to fold and there
are, of course, a multitude of different pocket square folds out there. For an
overview of some different folds, you can check out this old video here or stay
tuned for a new one that will be coming soon. Something to keep in mind though is
that not all pocket squares are created equal;
there are definitely squares out there that are made from lower quality
materials and with lower qualities of construction and the discerning
gentlemen will be able to notice these details easily. As an example of this
principle, at the recent 2019 Menfluential conference in Atlanta,
one fairly big-name menswear youtuber wore what appeared to be a white pocket
square at first but upon closer inspection, was actually just a cheap
piece of white fabric that had been sewn into the breast pocket of his suit. Now,
of course, we're not going to name any names here but this story just
illustrates the principle that if you're wearing something cheap in your breast
pocket, it will show to those who care. What factors should you be looking for
in choosing a quality pocket square then? Well, there are basically three big ones;
the material used, the size of the pocket square, and how the edges are stitched.
Before we get into the fine details of edges though, let's first go over the
pocket square construction materials. We will start with silk
which is a versatile classic. Silk squares are often going to be
particularly compact in your pocket and they're good for unstructured folds like
a puff fold, for example. However, there can be downsides to a silk square in
that because it is so smooth. If it's too small, it will easily slide down into
your pocket and be unseen. Linen pocket squares are also extremely versatile.
Often, they'll have more structured edges but soft and supple centers so they'll
be easy to fold into both structured folds like a crown fold but also will do
well with unstructured folds. As linen's texture is a slight bit more coarse than
silk, you probably won't have as much of an issue with a linen square falling
into your pocket but if it's too big, it will create added bulk in your pocket
which can look unsightly. Linen does crease more easily than some other
fabrics but most discerning gentlemen appreciate the sophisticated way in
which linen creases. Therefore, having a bit of creasing in your linen pocket
squares isn't really going to be seen as a problem. Woollen pocket squares are
truly for the connoisseur.They can look particularly smart when worn with other
heavier and warmer fabrics in the cold months, say for example, a tweed sport
coat. By the way, if you want to learn more about the compelling history of
tweed, you can check out our video on that subject here. Prices of wool squares
can vary widely, however, depending on the type of wool used and similarly to linen,
if the square is too big, it's going to add a lot of unsightly bulk to your
pocket. Cotton pocket squares are available as
well but overall, they're a less refined option. While they are fairly durable and
easy to wash, they don't hold folds very well and they wrinkle in a less
attractive way than linen does. Therefore, cotton squares are best used not as a
pocket square for your breast pocket but rather as a handkerchief for one of your
trouser pockets or elsewhere on your person because they are so durable
they're better for wiping sweat from your brow, cleaning up messes, and so on.
Finally here, polyester pocket squares are inexpensive,
lightweight, and durable but they are best avoided. They
often look overly shiny in their finish and are almost always machine stitched.
Also, removing stains from synthetic fabrics isn't an easy task.
On that note though, if you are curious about the best stain removal techniques
we've found for various different types of fabric, you can check out our recent
video on that subject here. Additionally, you can also find blends of multiple
types of fabrics that will carry the characteristics of each type. For example,
a silk wool blend will be handsome visually and will also allow for
multiple different types of folds both structured and unstructured. In general,
we recommend pocket squares in silk, wool, linen, and blends thereof. Cotton can work
in summery situations but it and polyester are both best avoided. Next,
let's answer this question, what's the best pocket square size to have? In the
broad-strokes, the answer is that it depends largely on
the fabric used. Almost all squares are sized so that they yield the most fabric
possible from the original fabric bolt. For example, if you have a fabric that is
70 centimeters or about 27 and a half inches wide, it's cut in half leaving you
with 35 centimeter squares that are more like 33 centimeters once the edges are
rolled. Or if the fabric happens to be 160 centimeters or 63 inches, it will
often be cut into roughly 40 centimeter squares. This, however, can present a
potential problem. Depending on the size of the square cut, you can either end up
with a square that is too small and falls into your pocket or too large and
presents extra bulk. At Fort Belvedere, we keep these considerations in mind
when producing our own pocket squares. Each fabric is tested in 8 different
sizes and then worn to determine what the best size for any given fabric will
be. This means that we do have to work with higher quantities of raw materials
than we would if we were only considering efficiency as our top
priority. For example, if we were going to make squares that are
forty centimeters in size, this means that we would only be half as efficient
when working with a 70 centimeter roll of fabric but all in all, we do this to
achieve the ultimate goal of a pocket square which is to look polished and put
together in the wearer's pocket. So in general, there's no universally right
size for a pocket square but just know that thinner fabrics should be larger and
thicker fabrics should be smaller. Now with materials and sizing out of the
way, let's discuss the various different types of edges a pocket square can have
and the pros and cons of each style. First, a few general notes on this topic
depending on the type of pocket square fold you choose, the edges of your square
may be the most visible part of it, therefore, if you're wearing a pocket
square with cheap machine stitched edges, it will fray with repeated wearing and
won't look attractive. Also, there's an inherent difference in edge types
depending on the fabric of the pocket square in question. Silk squares, as well
as those made from polyester, often have soft and supple edges. These are good for
unstructured puff folds but having more precise folds often won't be able to be
achieved as well. Conversely, pocket squares made from
linen wool and cotton often have stiffer and more structured edges so having a
pocket square fold with points or other details is more easily achieved.
Regardless of the fabric type, however, the principle character of a pocket
square's edge will come from the type of stitching that's used. As such, we'll
start our overview of these stitching types with the gold standard; the hand
rolled edge. Also called a rolled edge, rolled hem, or rollover stitch, the most
refined pocket squares are going to feature edges that are hand rolled into
a tight and tubular edge and then also stitched by hand. Typically, you'll see
about five to six stitches to an inch or a stitch every half centimeter or so
though this can vary depending on the square. As you might imagine, squares with
a higher stitch density are going to take longer to produce than those with a
lower stitch density and the lower the number of overall
stitches, the looser the edge is going to be. Given that it is handmade, the stitch
will be slightly uneven but this is a plus, it gives it a unique and artisanal
finish. Hand stitching can also be done in a variety of styles, of course,
including a straight stitch or an X stitch as well as many others. In the
particular example of X stitching, you won't see it very often as even X
stitching done by hand is relatively difficult to achieve and takes quite a
bit of time. At Fort Belvedere, however, we pride ourselves in the fact that you can
find some of the highest quality hand X stitched pocket squares on the market
today and you can take a look at them in our shop here. One additional distinction
to note with hand rolled pocket square edges, if the edge is rolled on to the
front side of a pocket square, which is to say, the sign that has the pattern
printed or woven onto it, this is known as a French rolled hem. However, if the
edges rolled to the back side of the pocket square, this is known as an
Italian rolled hem. Whichever style of rolling you prefer is simply a personal
preference and one isn't any more formal than the other. In the case of the French
rolled hem, it's a particular style of many scarves and other garments made by
Hermes. By the way, if you want to see whether an Hermes tie is worth it or how
to spot a fake one you can take a look at these videos here. And it's worth
noting that the precision and craftsmanship involved in a hand rolled
pocket square edge will probably mean that the resulting square has a bit of a
higher price tag but as with most things, you get what you pay for. Meanwhile,
mass-market retailers often aren't going to want to pay for the additional labor
that goes into hand stitching pocket square edges. As such, most mass-produced
squares that you'll find on the market today have machine stitched edges. There
are a number of different types of machined edges as well. Simplest of these
is the parallel edge which is flat and simple with only one line of stitching
and doesn't contain much character or dimension in the pocket square's edge and
while the so called Z shaped edge features a bit more character
and interest in its stitching, the edges of the fabric itself are still going to
be relatively flat and lifeless. One machined edge style that does have some
value is the embroidered or embroidery edge which features a tight spiral of
thread running all around the edge of the square.
Even so, a skilled artisan could probably achieve this same type of stitch by hand
and it would be a more superior product overall. Finally here, there are also
machined edges that attempt to replicate the style of a hand-sewn edge, however,
you'll still be able to see that the edge isn't actually hand-sewn and this
replication has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, machine stitched
edges will be more visible and more uniform than a hand sewn edge. In fact,
they'll be almost too uniform, symmetrical, and perfect. Similar in the
sense to the perfection you'd find in a pre-tied bow tie. Secondly, even
though specially designed sewing machines are often used to roll the edge
of the fabric over, you can still tell that it was done by a machine as the
fabric will have had to pass under presser feet on the sewing machine and
will thus be a little bit flatter than it would be if it were truly hand rolled.
Finally and perhaps most crucially here, a machine stitched edge is probably
going to feature thread that is slightly looser and thus more prone to snagging,
coming loose, and ruining the pocket square. So those are the different types
of edges covered. You might not be totally sold on the superiority of the
hand rolled edge though you might be wondering what sets the hand rolled edge
apart aside from the additional labor that's put into it. Put simply, a pocket
square with a hand rolled edge is going to drape, fold, and puff better than a
machine rolled edge square will. This is because hand-stitched edges are a little
bit more naturally malleable and therefore can be contorted into various
different shapes more easily. An additional plus that elevates the hand
rolled edge is the presence of mitered corners on the square which
meet at a 45-degree angle and thus have less bulk when they're folded together.
Meanwhile, a square with machined edges is going to often just have fabric
folded over itself multiple times at the corners creating excess bulk. Also, not
only are mitered corners slimmer in your pocket but they're also going to be more
resistant to wear and tear over time. To play devil's advocate for a moment,
there certainly do exist handmade pocket squares with hand rolled edges that are
made sloppily and might be of inferior quality to a machine made pocket square.
However, as long as you're sourcing your pocket squares from a reputable seller,
you can be almost guaranteed that anything handmade is going to be of
superior quality to something made by a machine. To fully cement the quality of
the hand rolled pocket square edge then, let's take a look at a few examples from
Fort Belvedere. All Fort Belvedere pocket squares are made from either silk linen
or silk wool blends and they all feature hand rolled edges. Some of these edges
are going to feature straight stitching which of course is also done by hand and
some of the squares are going to feature the more playful X stitch also done by
hand. Additionally, squares that feature woven
designs like polka dots or playing card suits for instance are going to be hand
embroidered by skilled artisans taking more time and attention to detail.
Specifically, X stitching by hand can take almost twice as long as straight
stitching would and hand embroidery can take up to three times longer. Still, we
think this additional time put in is worth it in the end product. The final
pocket square is guaranteed to be a unique piece with handmade character. In
other words, a true mark of a gentleman. As you can see then, selecting a pocket
square to wear with your ensembles does require some attention to detail the
materials you prefer to wear each have their pros and cons and of course you
have to choose the right size but the benefits of a hand rolled edge and
hand-stitched edge are clear
before we go here's one more reminder to take a look at our previous videos on
pocket squares which you can find in our playlist here
in today's video I'm wearing a light and summery ensemble where the pocket square
is the main focus it's an ivory square in a silk wool
blend from Fort Belvedere and it features hunting motifs in various
colors of orange green pink brown and blue of course as with all Fort
Belvedere pocket squares it features a hand-rolled edge and is also hand
stitched meanwhile my sport coat is tan linen with a subtle herringbone pattern
in its weave my shirt is an off-white and it's from Charles Tyrwhitt and it
features French cuffs in which today I have simple silver colored cufflinks my
trousers are plain brown in color and my socks are in a similar shade to roughly
match the pants my shoes are tan wingtip derbys that feature heavy broguing and
rounding out the outfit today is my boutonniere which is also from Fort
Belvedere it's an orange exotic Caribbean flower and it provides another
pop of color that helps the summery vibe of the outfit along with a wide array of
other accessories you can find both the boutonniere and the pocket square I'm
wearing today in the Fort Belvedere shop here