Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan in today's video we finish making
the drill grinding jig and see if it works by grinding some drills.
The tool and cutter grinder I'm using was made from a kid supplied by Hemingway kids
and I have a series of videos showing how to make it on my channel Enots engineering.
I've put some details at the end of the video for both so let's go to
the workshop and see how we finishes it.
I use the paper strip method to mark the index ring and the feed screw.
Some of the updates have made since the last video.
I'll put some thread lock on the inside of this dial so that the cap head
can turn without the dial staying still.
I put these two little pegs in there just
tapped into holes so you've got something to turn when you're indexing
you turn the spindle when indexing.
Because this block is set back a bit further there is a cutout on the back
in the plate to accommodate the block.
Theres the part I've milled out so that the feed screw block sits there.
and this here is the locking screw from the original cutter grinder. Just undo that you can swivel the base,
to the angle you need I'll show how this works,
when we put a feed on it if you look at this part here I've just locked the spindle just nipped it
It doesn't need to be tight if you tighten it it locks the spindle
so just nip it to stop it indexing
and as you tighten the feed screwing in the indexing pin slides along
this cutout in the block to give you your feed so you've got 5 mm of feed
on that which should be ample for most drills
on the end of the feed screw. I have marked ten divisions on this face.
there's my zero mark each division is 0.1mm
and on the end of the indexing ring
mark 12 positions for the 12 holes.
now the thing I found is that as the tables
tilted it's difficult to see the marks so what I've done is just put a red mark
there which represents the first hole and then a red mark on the one that
opposite or you could use the two pins which I did use so as long as that pin
is parallel with that one then when you turn it 180 degrees you get the next
pin line, but I found on the feed it's easier just to put a red spot on
the top and then when you change to the other side back this of.
Two turns under
Undo your index pin rotate 180 degrees engage your index pin.
okay we'll try to grinding a drill
First of all to grind set the angle to 12 degrees
for the table.
This is the drill I will grind it's been ground before.
it's an old drill Morse taper number one select a collet that the drill fits.
feed this through the bottom through the collet
let me explain what I'm doing when I set the drill up
use this big drill to show I'm setting this cutting edge parallel to the table
So I'm imaginary drawing a line through the middle of the drill.
and spacing the two cutting edges equally parallel to that table.
what I found is that if I put my rule across it it's virtually on centre there.
so that gives me a center
line and I can turn the drill to the right position for grinding.
I also use the rule on the top just to give me that with so I can get the drill above
the collet by about 25mm.
Just nip the collet
fold the table back down feed screw is backed
right out and at the moment the drill is too far in.
This is where were cutting here
So all I need to do is move the table back.
On the side the bottom
here each side you've got some screws you can undo and you can move the table
in and out closer to the wheel and lock the screws off each side this one here
is for the angle of the table.
another tip under the table
here just under the wheel I've got the lid off an ice cream carton put some oil
in there and this catches most of the grit that comes off the wheel and the
bits you can see it stays in there and the area around it is relatively clean.
the drill jig is set at 31 degrees which gives you 59 degrees from the parallel position
you can set it either side it just means that if you set it on the other side
you'll be cutting on this side the wheel you don't need to change that angle
because you're going to rotate the drill in a spindle.
The drill is just in front of the wheel lock the table. I'll just put some red felt-tip pen on the end of this drill.
The next thing we do is turn the motor on and we want the wheel to go
down as I'm cutting so pulls down on the table
the locks off turn this screw until the wheel touches
Thats the feed.
Move the backwards and forwards
turn it a bit more
I don't know if you can see there the cutting edge.
just notice through its a a broken drill you see there's a chip out of the face
here so this face is a bit jagged undo the index you can see there this
face it's cleaned up to the edge back and there's a little bit left of the
whoever ground it before took the heel off it same on this side I can see were
the heels been taken off that's how it usually grind it for just a single cut.
so if I make it a four cut colour this in so you can see scene what's been ground off
Adjust the angle to 20 degree
it's just cutting on the back there
I'll leave it at that I've thinned out the the edge there this is the cutting
edge at the front which is broken away but I've thinned it out. now rotate it round
mark the feed wheel just there
back off the feed wheel 1, 2 thats stoped there slacken the indexing pin and
rotate 180 degrees tighten the pin so I've got two turns on
the feed wheel to go back in
take that out we'll have a look you can see there the red part is the cutting
edge as a side dish has been damaged on there if you look at that side this is
the cutting edge and this has been backed off.
now this is a drill I'll try sharpen up you can see it's been sharpened by hand
selected a collet goes down there
tighten up the top I'm just setting the drill height about the width of a rule
and I just want to line up the drill cutting edge so that that parallel is
quite wide land on this one always use a spanner when you're locking it because
if the spindle turns you could share your pin off the indexing.
put some red felt-tip on so you can see what's happening.
First of all back out the feed.
Move the table in lock the table up and this time it's set at 20 degrees for
the angle feeding in
you can see it's taking it off the back there and leaving the front.
let's take the other red off I've mark were the cut is. Take the cuts off.
Take the indexing pin out and rotate it round to the next one
indexing pin back in
you can see on that one I've just taken it up just before the land has cleared.
So now I'll just change the angle of the table to 12 degrees.
take the feed off come up to the wheel
lock the table.
Feed in until to touches
you can see the two cutting edges it's quite thick this is
It needs reducing all the chisel point I should say.
with a little addition to this I can use this in the tool post.
so I can put stock in the collet
machine square triangle hexagon whatever you need to machine on the end
or drill a hole through the centre of a bar also you can use this in your drilling machine
fits in the vice
There's little indexing fixture well that's it for today if
you'd like any more information about the tool and cutter grinder this is a
website it in a kit from Hemingway kits and if you'd like to see
how it's made visit my video on making a tool and cutter grinder.
I hope you enjoyed it
it hope the information was useful and I'll see you next time
On Enots engineering