everybody don't from tested and Kate from test welcome back to this mini
model behavior series where we are putting together a stardestroyer a1 5000
scale and I start or part of their Star Wars line this is a very highly detailed
model stream Lee detailed so impressed by the the parts are coming out of this
it's like Bandai has the stuff that was 144 scale your X wins and your tiny
million Falcons they also have like 170 second scale perfect grade Mullane
falcon I think this has the detail that although of course it is
stars joiner so one five thousand right so this is part two or hopefully gonna
finish the build today if you haven't seen part one please go back and watch
that and that's where we've prepped all the pieces and got them painted and then
experimented with putting on as techie yes which was so much fun it's masking
and also then working with the color choices to get these two tones of light
gray yeah lightest of Gray's if you're using to me a page what's the insignia
white is what we signe away yeah well and then that the the standard light
gray primer yes as the base coat underneath it and they're just so thin
it went on perfectly anything thicker than that you're gonna lose all this
really amazing detail in here so today we are going to do the assembly there's
a whole lighting system inside for this version of the model kit and we're gonna
be trying to put that together with the goal minimizing light leaks yes which is
a thing that can happen if you're not using fiber optics and then also we're
gonna be finishing with a weathering pass at the end to accentuate all those
details and panel lines so got construction manuals here I think the
first step is gonna be setting up the lighting rig yep and we'll get to that
and check in when we have some some show and you can measure up seven centimeters
there flat and then I'll wrap it around reasonable yeah alright let's check the
LEDs nice nice nice oh good oh good
Oh see makes total sense now these are the engine LEDs that's why they get more
blue okay yes and the mystical bridge and the yes okay cool cool cool
superstructure all right our LED light harness is done really excited to
install that and now it's time to put things together the first thing we're
putting together is gonna be looks like the stand and so Kate's gonna take the
role of cutting things from the sprue yeah you're using godhand
is it amazing they're like butter yeah they're their high-end nippers just
for Bandai style model kids and Adam bought a set totally worth it in our
opinion of course we're gonna snip it and then do a little bit of a cleanup
yeah and pieces and then I'll get to assembly and put the space together like
you don't feel any resistance
so it looks like we're gonna start with this one okay what a snip yep
sir where's that 21 21 this goes over the center here
let's put in exactly where they want me to which is right there above this but
it's right here and these are better the walls of this cavity and then when I
flip this around okay this is super cool before we started putting this together
we talked about wanting to kind of block out the light plate like lightly with
something we knew we wouldn't concern about and we were gonna think about
maybe cutting up some strips of gaff tape yep and it turns out as we're
putting this together they've thought of some of that always yeah and there are
these stickers here black stickers that then can wrap around some of the the
inserts right so you just built a little box and installed it and now they know
that that box has a few light weeks around there essentially yeah you've got
a custom sticker that's already cut to size with the flaps that fold around
that to block the light from coming out that's really great so great and we can
actually show a little bit of that because if we turn on the LEDs and put
it behind the box we can actually see that yeah there would be there would be
lightly yep and so that's a very thoughtful
or it really issued some part of this assembly already super fun parts are
really clean the Tamiya two coats and we put on some of these pieces actually I
think it's a help with the tolerances them yeah walk out the press fit in
exactly it's a really tight fit and it's really cool like not only do we have
some of this black tape that prevents light leaks but entire pieces as well I
think our design here to kind of channel the lights yeah and there's also
reflective tape so they've really thought this out really well
one thing we want to do though because in photos of the original filming
miniatures the lighting is an all single tone right there are a few spots where
you see some really cool like warmer red light exactly so we want to put that in
here or not doing fiber optics so one of the things we've run online but people
have done for this model kit is kind of tint with the windows with their own gel
yeah instead of using a tiny piece of gel plastic what we're gonna do is just
use some yeah we're gonna take white glue which normally dries clear it's you
know everybody has it it's non-toxic easy to work with and I have just been
adding some clear to me a paint to it to tint it and it gives you a really good
you know see-through red appearance that it's
like really easy you put it in you wait for it to dry and then it really adds
something nice and it's gonna be such a thin layer the light's still gonna be
able to yep blast through it and it's another place where you can get creative
because there's no guide for where to put Ray's color of lights we're not to
put a time to entire swathes of windows yeah point here and there again just to
break up that lighting scheme and so you'll be working on that while I'll be
moving on and actually doing more on this harness to prepare it for inserting
the ship
I think we're about to close up the stardestroyer
get to the superstructure on the top of bridge we're again flabbergasted so
impressive the engineering the amount of detail the channels the score lines
showing you where to put the stickers it's just it's really fantastic the
wiring of the lights was really intricate too you know they gave you
this I think this actually lives the same lighting impact that's in the
Millennium Falcon Oh so they reuse that so the wires are long
much longer than you need for the cavity of the Star Destroyer so they gave you
lots of tape to shorten things up exact measurements of how to bundle in down to
the millimeter totally and then places where you can tape them to the top and
bottom parts of these frames and the frames actually box the light in well we
thought we were gonna have to be combating a lot of light leakage but in
the test when we're looking at it like I'm not seeing much yeah so we're leave
the lights on for the rest of the build because why not they look gorgeous so in
a second I'm going to put these on Bam and bam so the stars short is lit up or
check out the engine light so cool that goes in there and like Kate said to
check out the sweet sweet engine lights and bridge lights here so this it's
closed up and we're literally at last two pages and the instructions for
assembly going to build that bridge then with weather
so there you have it one technically assembled Star Destroyer it's gorgeous
that's so good but we're not done because we need to accentuate the panel
lines in my opinion you're never done till you've done it even the mildest
weathering pack and we're discussing this because it technically it's in
space don't have the same tire in space aging that you would have but you know
there's gonna be some type of engine burn we want to have the contrast
they're so much like we said in the beginning of these shallow pieces of
paneling what's our approach because we could there's so many different ways
right um now one of the things that we were thinking here is normally I would
use some sort of a liquid wash but that pools in a way that really evokes
gravity so I thought and especially because we want to be really mild that
we would do a powder weathering pass one of the things I really like to do is use
these milk pigment powders and they come in a whole array of colors this is my
final pass on the blimp weathering was done with these so what I've done here
is just to test it out I did you know a solution a mixture of black and white to
give us a good gray and my technique normally I would use a big
acid brush this thing is so small you don't want to I take a dry brush try to
knock some stuff off of there you do a bit of a brush on top then immediately
take a clean brush knock some of that off as much off as you can and you'll
notice that it's actually really heavy so I go in with a wet cloth and try and
wipe off as much from the surface as possible it's gonna only leave behind
something in the crack so that's what we want also while we were very impressed
by the the light blocking systems that were putting the kit including these
plastic shells and also that black tape like you see for example along the sides
here it's pretty good I don't see a lot of warping yeah especially the back this
clamshell here there would normally be a lot of leakage you only seen the engines
that's very impressive the superstructure itself from the bridge
has a little bit of warping so you can see it popping off a little bit on the
top of there so we want to do is kind of to put in your own black tape yeah to
seal it up and something to keep in mind if you're going to use black tape to
block out light take a look at the back of the tape because especially something
like black gaff tape might be black on the surface it's white on the bottom so
find maybe a black paper tape where it's just black both sides so why don't I
start on the superstructure and you can start on the ship maybe start on the
bottom until you figure out the processor we're happy with because we'll
see that less and then we'll slowly move our way towards the top so I started to
notice that as I was brushing off the excess pigment it was just wanting to
smear around there cuz it really is just trying to grab onto every surface it can
and then especially when you put the wet rag on to it you're you're taking a dry
pigment adding liquid that makes paint so my new strategy is I took a very fine
brush and I'm very specifically going over the areas I want like especially
these panel lines so I get them in trying to go only where I want them to
go then I take a blowing tool you can have an air hole
was candy here whatever you want I guess you can just blow it with your mouth
and I'm slowing off the excess that way there's no surface contact you're not
smearing it across and then anything left on top you can very lightly use
your wet cloth to get off I think it's a much more subtle look and I'm really
happy with it
and it's done okay so much fun it was a lot of fun and what a difference all the
little bits of work oh yeah it's hard not to go extra heavy and I honestly I
think we could go a bit heavier on this but we wanted to keep it light showcase
off the beautiful craftsmanship that this kit came with totally the as
teching was a really fun and the weathering past really freeform I am
sold on this pigment powder yeah isn't it great I think like if we're not going
for what you said the droopiness things kind of accumulating then that makes it
look like it's in it's like a model miniature that's been sitting in storage
for you know 35 years yeah a lovely lovely kit that's the Bandai one 5000
scale Star Destroyer there is a version of this that does not include the lights
or the clear parts and we didn't end up using the clear parts by through the
lighting kit if you don't want to go with fiber-optics is totally amazing
definitely worth it it's so gorgeous yes gorgeous and the holes are in both kits
so if you want to use your own lighting you still get the benefit of the molds
having the the holes in them we'll be back with more model behavior projects
in the future more model making projects I've you've got other VanDyke it's
yourself we'd love to see them in the comments below but and that's we'll see
you next time
you