Good afternoon everyone thanks for coming down, I'm Josh from Marques Flooring and this is the first
edition of our Third Thursday Training, this is something we're going to be doing every month
and to make it nice and easy it's called Third Thursday Training so you know it's always every
Third Thursday of every month at 3:30. To kick it off we've got the guys here from Cutek
and we're going to be going through decking and how to restore decking as well as then how to coat it and
a couple other little technical things at the same time. So I'll hand it over to Greg and he's going
to go through a number of different demonstrations and we'll kick things off, over to you. Thank you Josh.
Okay so the first thing that we usually get asked is what sort of preparation do we need to do to timber before we
coat it? Well there's a number of things and we have a number of products that are suitable for
all those applications so below me here we've got two prime examples of the timber that you
would usually come across, brand-new fresh timber out of the yard, laid, ready to coat
then we have timber that has been, as you can see, fairly poorly looked after. There's two examples
of this the example in the front, the first three boards are timber that has never been
looked after so that would be a hardwood that has just been put down and literally not looked
after for its life which would be around about I think this one is something like 10 years, the
three boards towards me are actually a hardwood that has been previously coated
in Cutek but that coating has then been left to silver off, Cutek will naturally silver
off with age while the the oil sort of stays within the timber protecting the board, you can
actually see there's a fair difference between the two types of timbers there and the age and what the
actual weathering has done to them. What we'll do is we'll actually use one of our prep products
to bring this timber back to an original state or as best we can before we apply a coat of Cutek
oil on it and what we're going to do is we're going to apply Cutek Proclean to that and this
is like a timber rejuvenator, this will actually get rid of the greying off the timber, brighten the
timber, get rid of any mould spores, any iron staining or anything else that may be
on that timber so we're going to give that a go in a minute, meanwhile if we look at the timber that's
just been bought and laid it all looks pretty good, looks like you could coat that straightaway but the
issue with doing that is that that also could have some sort of contaminant on it and a lot of
that will probably be something like mill glaze and if you haven't heard of mill glaze it's
the, I guess the process of machining the timber causes friction and heat and that actually brings
a lot of those extractives which will just glass over or gloss over the top of the timber,
pretty much cause a barrier that most products won't stick to or they'll have an issue with
that side of things so what we've done is we've got three boards that have been Procleaned and then
the three boards that have just been laid without any preparation to that and we'll see the difference
in those shortly. Okay so what we're going to do is we're going to apply Proclean to these boards
and the first thing you have to do is thoroughly wet the board so we'll go ahead and thoroughly
wet the board, then we're gonna pour Proclean into our bucket, we're gonna use a soft broom
as an applicator and it's gonna broom it evenly and neatly straight across the boards and then
we're gonna leave that for a period of time, now you can leave Proclean on your substrate for anything up
to 24 hours so unlike other products it doesn't have to be rehydrated, so this product once it
goes on wet will keep being active and doing its job for up to 24 hours so we'll go ahead and wet the
board, apply the Proclean, leave it for a short period time and then we'll power wash that off.
And this doesn't get diluted it just goes straight on? No, put it on - because you've already wet your board so it's partly diluted.
An even application across the boards is the best thing, you don't have to scrub hard, the Proclean will
do its job. There's no need for vigorous scrubbing - with any other products. So it can stay on the board, it looks like
it's dry but it's still working so it's working underneath that and that's unlike any other
product that's on the market, most of them have to be rehydrated and you've probably got a maximum of
40 minutes to do that so this stuff you can use in the middle of the day and it'll continue to
work overnight, come back the next morning, power wash it off. So what we've got in there is we've
a foamer that you'll see that when you're actually power washing it off it will actually show a white
foam, the idea is to get rid of all that white foam, then you know that the product is actually out of the board.
Which is a very good idea so that you know how much you've cleaned it so the longer you leave
it on the better the job it's going to do, the longer you leave it on the more washing it's gonna take to get out.
Okay so we've power washed that off and we let that dry and as you can see the results are
remarkable, as you can see it's taken off all the greying out of the timber, it's brought the timber
back to a fairly original colour, it's got rid of the mould off it, it's cleaned all the dirt out, any
iron stain that was appearing on there, now don't worry that the boards are actually looking
a little bit dull, that timber is in really good shape now, best it can be. Now as you take notice of
the first three boards which were the aged timber that has never had a coat on it at all its whole
life whereas the first three boards closest to me have been previously treated with
Cutek it's just that the coating had been let go and it's just faded off. Because
Cutek stays within the timber itself and acts as a wood stabiliser, the conditions of the boards
are worlds apart. See the boards in the front, they're actually starting to surface check really really
badly, that's no good for the board, you'll get moisture in there, moisture causes rot and in
each 20% moisture to have rot start forming, see the back boards are still in very good condition.
So the boards themselves are nice and tight, the grain's nice and tight, it's been I guess
protected internally by the Cutek formulation and the weather hasn't got to that at all
it's just simply silvered off. Silvering is just oxidisation of the timber, the polymers on the
top of the timber have degraded but it's only very small so it only goes in point to a millimetre
or less and that's going to do you no damage whatsoever, it's when you start getting all that
heavy surface checking and cracking because there's no protection for the timber, that's when
you've got an issue so along those lines as well there's an old way of protecting timber before
you coat which is let hardwood aged for 6 to 8 weeks, sometimes 3 months. Well what
that's going to do is that's actually going to allow the timber to start deteriorating by surface checking and
cracking, allowing moisture to come in and out of the timber, there's even written words where it
says if it doesn't rain within that period hose it every second day, well all you're doing is just
starting that destruction of the timber. As we know timber have natural resistance to termites and rot
so it's a durability that's within the timber, the different classes, I won't go into that now but
1, 2, 3 and 4, a lot of the hardwoods are classed 1 and 2, they rely on those extractives
that you're trying to water out of it or let that run out, some of the extractives are tannins,
tannins are very vital to the durability and the resistance against termites so you don't want to
get rid of all those, sure it's okay to give it a surface prep before you coat but you don't want
to start destroying the timber so with that in mind, certainly Procleaning new timber to
clean it up, get rid of mill glaze is a fantastic idea so what we've done on these new boards
is that we have Procleaned three of them and we have just simply left three of them, give them a quick
wash so when we apply the the oil to these which we'll do in a moment you should be able to see a
very good difference. Getting rid of mill glaze is pretty much key to longevity of anybody's coating
regardless of whether it's Cutek or another coating because you're actually giving a surface area
that something can bind to so you're getting rid of the mill glaze which is almost like a glass
film over it as such, you can't see it but you can feel it and that's gonna give a resistance to
bonding from anybody's product so you power wash that with Proclean and that will get rid
of that and that's going to give you something to to bond to so we'll go ahead and we'll give these
boards a coat and what we're going to do is we're going to coat them with a Cutek CD50 that has
been pre-mixed with a colour tone tint so all Cutek oils are clear as they go on clear they will allow
the deck or the timber to naturally just silver off with exposure to sunlight but you're still
going to get all that timber stabilisation technology going through the timber as Cutek
is a penetrating oil and it migrates deeply into the timber but without a colour tone there's very
little UV protection for the surface so think of colour tones as sunblock so if you put sunblock on
your face you're delaying the amount that you burn and UV light is doing that to you, the same with
timber so we add a colour tone to a can of Cutek and that's going to give you your UV resistance, that's
going to keep your timber looking like freshly oiled timber for much longer so in a 5 litre can you
can add one 180 mil colour tone, you can add as much as two 180 mil colour tones per 5 litre can so
4 to a 10 and what that actually effectively does is it's like putting extra UV protection so
you're actually giving more time between the silvering or you're delaying the silvering longer
and if it's key to your project to have the timber colour last
as long as possible then the key to that would be to use Cutek Extreme Oil with a double colour
tone in it and that will give you the longest and best performance as far as colour goes, now
remember Cutek Extreme, double the colour tone and that will give you the best results for colour retention.
Right we'll go ahead and apply a coat of Cutek to the timber and we'll also do it on the weathered
timber as well so what you'll see is that there's two ways of applying it, one, you can apply it with
a lamb's wool applicator which is probably the chosen method for bigger areas or as you'll see
later you can apply that just simply with a brush as well, so light coats are much much
better than thick heavy coats because it is as I said a true penetrating migrating oil,
there's no need to overload it, all that's doing is making the time frame between the
penetration drag out so thin coats in this instance are much much better than heavy coats.
So you can see that that oil now has brought the timber up beautifully but the shine on it
will go. So Cutek is a matte finish, it will look the same as a natural matte finished oil on
the timber but it's going to give you that protection against moisture and it's also
going to give you the protection against the UV when you're adding a colour tone. Different colour
tones are available for different timbers, the key to this is to choose a colour tone that is similar
to the colour of the timber that you're applying it to or darker and the reason for this is that
our colour tones contain transparent iron oxides, transparent iron oxides are absolutely awesome
at blocking and absorbing UV light but as the - says they are highly transparent so you're
actually going to see a lot of the timber through those pigments, so what happens is if
you choose a colour pigment or a colour tone that is too light for the timber you won't notice
it straightaway but what will happen is the timber when it actually starts to lighten from
the effects of UV light getting through, as it will, then you're going to get a reflected light
that's going to shine those transparent iron oxide colours to you so if you've got a lighter one
such as a yellow on a darker substrate you're going to get that lighter patchier look, there's
nothing wrong you've just simply chosen the wrong colour tone so it is key for longevity of colour to
choose one that is similar to the color of the timber or darker. Thanks for joining us for our
first edition of Third Thursday Training as we said this is going to evolve throughout the
year and we're going to be holding this every month on the Third Thursday of each month, next
month we're going to be having levelling which is on the 21st of January, you'll see a whole
lot of flyers, 21st of February sorry, you'll see a whole lot of flyers and news go out soon and
this video and all the videos will be uploaded onto YouTube as the series goes on, thank you.