How's it going everyone, Rahrena here and tonight we are going to be replacing
a low pressure fuel sensor on a 2013 Ford Escape (1.6 liter SE Ecoboost).
This is to fix check engine light (CEL) code P0087, which is, "fuel rail pressure is low"...
So, typical symptoms that you'll see is when the engine is warmed up
driving at low speeds- or you're sitting in idle -... the engine might stall. It might hesitate
when you press the gas... it might feel like the car is bucking forwards... weak acceleration,
low fuel economy, and of course that check engine light (CEL) that shows up. I have already tried
replacing other parts including the high pressure fuel sensor but it has not fixed it yet. I did
some more research this seems to be the culprit... there are other things that you can check as well
like your fuel pump your fuel filter any fuel lines as well as the electrical connections,
but chances are, those are in good shape because this has been known to be an issue with
our Escapes. I'm going to show you how to replace this... let's get started! Alright,
so for this video, you are obviously going to need a new low pressure fuel sensor. That part
is going to be linked in the description below. That part number for Motorcraft is "BU5Z-9F972-B".
We are going to be using the cowl and wiper removal to get more access to this pressure
sensor... you don't have to do that, but to avoid a lot of blindly reaching around the back of the
engine, I am going to recommend removing the cowl and the wipers. You're going to need a
T25 torx driver, a 15mm socket, an optional puller tool, a small flat head driver, and an 8mm socket.
To actually remove the sensor itself, you're going to need a 13mm open box wrench to hold
the flats in order to not torque the fuel line. Next, you'll need a 15/16" deep well socket. this
is a 12 point socket as it is all I had at the moment- a 6 point socket is always better for
optimized contact. Now here, you're going to see a lot of extensions on the left for a socket driver
for that 15/16" deep wall socket. That was to be able to have one hand out of the engine
bay for the video. We did keep the other hand in there to hold the 13mm wrench. You could probably
do it without these extensions but this video is going to show it with them... let's get started.
As you can see, I have the cowl removed. The painter's tape on the windshield was just where
I marked the lines of the wipers for putting them back on. I've also waited at least 12 hours for
the fuel pressure to lessen so that when I remove this sensor, I won't get sprayed with a ton of
fuel! I'm going to look behind the engine bay onto the fuel line... and right down here is that
fuel pressure sensor. Disconnecting it won't be difficult, but the trick is going to be breaking
it free without damaging the delicate fuel line! When you disconnect this line, there's a clasp on
the underside (at least for my sensor!) of the way it's oriented, and it's kind of hard to get to the
the tab that you push down to release, due to electrical tape... Just push on the bottom end and
pull out and now... we get to try and remove our sensor! After doing a little bit more research, I
found that there are two flats on the sensor mount where it tees into the fuel line. Those flats
fit a 13mm open box wrench pretty well. The video quality is a little grainy because I've zoomed in,
but I have my 13mm wrench on those flats... I'm going to go in with my 15/16" socket (and
you're probably not going to see a whole lot because you're going to see the back of my head
in front of this camera but I'm going to be applying some torque to break this thing free.
So here's our fuel pressure sensor and I want to show you what it took to get that thing off,
I'll tell you why initially I started out with a very short triple reduction from this half inch
size of this 15/16" socket for half inch to a 3/8" to a quarter inch into a really small ratchet,
just so I could get my hand in there by the fuel line. To have two hands in there to be holding
the 13mm wrench on those two flats... it's just really difficult, and you can't see what
you're doing. Luckily, I found that you can take massive extensions and have the driveline for the
15/16" socket come right out in between your air intake and the underside of the windshield there.
It's still a little bit of torque that you have to do but as long as you hold that 13mm
wrench on those flats you get a lot more leverage above and in this open space here
so that worked for me. I would recommend that even though it looks ridiculous,
you just have to be prepared to control it when it breaks free as there is a lot of momentum.
Now, I'm getting ready to install this new low pressure fuel sensor. Again,
you see this purple o-ring that's on here- that is going to seat inside that receptacle and in the
"T" fitting there, you can see that inner ring. I'm not going to crank this down super hard...
probably just a little bit more than hand tight using a smaller ratchet. I don't have a torque
spec for this so if anyone out there has one, please post it below and we'll update the video!
Now we're going to start it up and see if we see anything leaking out of there
or anything abnormal... Alright, so here's just a check with the engine
running- there are no leaks so we're good! I'm going to turn the engine off.
That about wraps it up tonight for replacing this low pressure fuel sensor on your 2013+
Ford Escape. As a reminder, this is a 1.6 liter Escape. This fix applies also for 2.0L engines.
This remedy also resolves check engine light code P0087
(low pressure on the fuel rail) so I hope this was helpful. If you liked it please give this video a
thumbs up! Please SHARE it! I know a lot of people have this issue with their car, so
let us know if this helps you if you're struggling with engine hesitations or stalling. Please follow
us on Facebook and Instagram and let us know if there's something that we missed here or that
you'd like to see in a future video! We'll see you next time- thanks for watching How to Escape!!!