Converting the stock on a shotgun from a pistol grip to a straight grip design is an easy process,
let me show you how it's done. This is a Winchester Model 21 built in the early
1930s. About 30,000 were made before production was moved to the Winchester Custom Shop in 1959
after which another few thousand guns were made. Most Winchester 21's left the factory
with a pistol grip stock, a single trigger, and a beavertail forend. This early gun has
a pistol grip stock but it has double triggers and a splinter forend. British guns typically
had a straight grip stock like this William Jeffries and Sons box lock.
Since the American market had a preference for pistol grips,
English manufacturers often incorporated a pistol grip stock for guns sold in America. Pistol grips
have also been retrofitted to straight grip guns like this William Kashmore hammer gun.
This Model 21 is mechanically sound as I previously tightened up the forend which was
a little loose. The stock has been refinished at some point so this gun really isn't a collector's
item and converting the stock to a straight grip design just makes it a little classier like this
original 20 gauge model 21 made in 1974. To convert the stock to a straight grip I need
to remove the entire pistol grip and weld on a piece of metal at the end of the trigger guard
for a new longer tang like on the 20 gauge. Then I'll need to refinish and rechecker the stock. I
begin by disassembling the gun. The trigger guard tang is secured by one screw. Now the tang can be
lifted free of the stock and the guard rotated 90 degrees and removed. Next the upper tang screw,
the trigger plate tang screw, and finally the trigger plate screw are removed. Wrapping the
frame with the plastic mallet will loosen the trigger plate and the buttstock can be
slid off the receiver. I use a piece of masking tape on both sides of the
stock to extend the tow line through the pistol grip and along the trigger
guard inletting. This serves as a guide for removing the pistol grip. Since it's only a
small amount of wood a Nicholson #49 cabinet makers rasp quickly removes the pistol grip.
Although I could use a handsaw or even a bandsaw. As I get close to the tape I check my progress.
The line between the toe and the trigger-guard should be perfectly flat. Before I round off
the toe line I need to weld the extension on the trigger guard and inlet the new longer
tang. Inletting the guard at this point allows me to shape the wood to the metal. A piece of
mild steel slightly thicker and wider than the trigger guard is welded on using a TIG
welder and the new longer tang is shaped to duplicate the original factory straight
grip guard. The hole for the additional guard screw is drilled and countersunk.
Looks pretty close to the original. With the stock back on the receiver,
the trigger guard is turned in and then adjusted slightly to lie flat against the
stock. I'm using a pencil that's been sanded flat on one side to mark around
the guard. The flat surface will provide a more precise outline of the guard. A
series of small chisels is used to cut the inletting. Smoking the
guard helps me see the high spots as the metal goes deeper into the wood.
Scraping away the areas where the metal makes contact allows for a
nearly perfect fit. Now the hole for the new guard screw is marked with a shop-made
punch and then pre-drilled before the screw is turned in. With the guard in
place the toe line of the stock is shaped using a straight edge to check along the
sides of the stock. This will ensure a smooth radius from the toe to the wrist.
I'm going to add flutes to the comb of the stock like on the 20 gauge. The flutes are laid out and
I also want to sharpen the nose of the comb. A series of files are used to rough in the flutes,
tape serves as a reminder and top to cut the flutes to long. The radius at the nose of the
comb on the 20 gauge is about the same as that of a quarter. Before sanding I need to give some
thought to the checkering. The wrist is about four and a half inches in circumference, which is about
right so I can't just sand off the checkering as that would make the grip look and feel too small.
I start sanding by wrapping 150 grit paper around the block then secure it with masking tape. A firm
backer will ensure level sanding and prevent waves in the wood that would show up in the
finish. Notice I sand with the grain never across it. The next step is to fill in the checkering. I
clean it out with finish remover and follow up with acetone to remove any remaining residue.
Then a mixture of epoxy and sanding dust saved from this stock is buttered into the checkering.
Once the epoxy hardens I filed it flush with the surface of the surrounding wood.
The action is out of the stock to prevent scratching the metal so I need to be especially
careful to stay away from the edges this is all we need to do with the checkering for now. Next,
I sand the wrist then the side panels. I want the edges around the panel's to
be nice and crisp so I'm careful not to sand close to the receiver as the wood should be
slightly higher or proud of the metal. The stocks are sanded through 320 grit raising
the grain after each sanding. I wipe the stocks with a damp paper towel and dry them with a heat
gun. The compressed wood fibers are raised with this process and the next sanding removes them.
I'm going to stain the stocks using a pre-64 Winchester type stain. This gives the stocks
a nice reddish-brown tint which resembles the original factory color. The stain is brushed
on and wiped off and the stocks are hung to dry. Next, I seal the wood which helps prevent
moisture from soaking into the grain. I'm using Laurel Mountain Forge stock sealer mixed with
stain to give the wood a darker color and blend the color of the buttstock with the
forend. I brush the sealer liberally onto the stock completely coating all surfaces and keep
the wood wet for about 20 minutes then I wipe off the excess and allow the stocks to dry overnight.
The buttplate is reinstalled to keep from rounding over the sharp edge when sanding.
I thinned the finish with mineral spirits to make it easier to work with. A selection
of wet or dry sandpaper is used. The last sanding was with 320 grit so I'm starting
now with 400. I squirt on a generous amount of finish and sand it in giving this finishing
process its name sanded in finish. Sanding creates a fine slurry of finish and wood
dust which fills the grain of the wood. The excess slurry is wiped off before it
hardens going across the grain leaving the slurry in the grain but not on the surface.
We call this shop made tool and edge saver as it helps save the crisp edges of the stock.
Before sanding the forend I tape over the checkering. The forend is a little darker
than the buttstock, so I'm going to add some stain to the remaining coats of finish on the
buttstock. I like to put on one coat of finish in the morning and one in the evening. I'll continue
to sand in coats with 400 grit until the grain is completely filled. Which generally takes 3
to 6 sandings depending on the wood grain. The stock has now been sanded through 1,000 grit
which gives it an attractive matte finish. The checkering on the forend is still in good shape,
but the checkering on the wrist will have to be recut. I'm going to duplicate the pattern
on the original straight grip Model 21. Before I begin checkering the receiver is
reattached and the buttstock is secured in a checkering cradle. I'm using the original
master lines to lay out the new pattern. The original pattern is used to determine
the distance the checkering will be from both the upper and lower tangs.
Once all the checkering has been recut I apply the same finish that was used on the stock. All
evidence of the original checkering disappears when the new checkering is complete. The trigger
guard and screws have been rust blued to match the original finish. Now I can reassemble the gun.
Pretty classy look.