Believe it or not, this is a home made static grass applicator at work.
If you wanna know how to get the same results, keep watching
and I'll show you how to build your very own - highly effective and cheap static grass applicator.
Hey y'all and welcome to another build guide!
My name is Luke and in this guide I'll take you through step by step how I built this static grass applicator.
As you can see, the results are fantastic and it will bring any scene you're working on to life.
If you wanna get serious with your model scenery, a static grass applicator is a must. So, let's get started!
In the description below, I'll include a complete list of materials needed to make the grass applicator.
The stand-out-component that is a must for this to work is a Negative Ion Generator.
There are a number of places you might pick one up.
eBay had a few last time I checked.
I get mine from a electronics hobby store here in Australia called Oatley Electronics
but check at your local electronics store as they might have them in stock.
'Cost me AU$14 and is the most expensive part of the build.
This is a two part-series due to it being quite a long guide.
In this video I'll show you how to build the body of the static grass applicator
and then in part two I'll show you how to install the electronics.
To get started I grabbed a 50mm (2") pipe coupler and mark just past half way.
That way - when I cut it, the flange on the inside will remain.
I make a second mark 1cm (3/8") up from the first mark
and using a circular saw, I make a cut on the first mark.
As you can see, the inner flange remains.
Then I make a cut on the second mark and you're left with these two pieces.
Now for the main handle.
I use 50 mm (2") PVC pipe.
Measure it to about 22cm (8 11/16"), mark it and cut.
You should have three pieces and depending on how good your saw is, you'll probably need
to give them a sand.
The coupling is very tight and very hard to slide over the pipe.
So, to make it easier I sand down the pipe as well as the inside of the coupler
until the coupler fit over the pipe just snug so it wasn't too lose but not too tight.
For the base, I use a plastic container. Preferably you want one that is not a screw-on-lid.
This one works perfectly. The lid just snaps in to place.
Using the 50mm pipe, set it on top of the container right in the middle
and then trace around the outside as best as you can in the middle.
Using a knife: cut out the center. Sand it down until the part fits through the middle.
You want it to be a nice, tight fit.
Now for the lid.
Again you want to cut out the center, but you also want to keep the part you cut out
because we're gonna use that again later.
Use the knife to cut out the center and then sand it back to neatening it up.
The part we just cut out is going to be the base to seal the upper part of the applicator
so grass doesn't end up at the top of the PVC pipe.
I use the coupler as a rough guide and draw the inner circle on to the plastic.
Then using scissors or a knife: cut out the circle. Sand it back until it fits perfectly inside the coupler
and it can press up against the inside flange.
To make sure everything is going to work I test fit the parts before gluing.
Now it's just a matter of piecing it together.
The top coupler needs to slide about double it's length up the pipe and then the container slides on behind it.
I mix up some epoxy and use that to secure the plastic stopper piece against the flange.
Next, put some epoxy around the top. This will help secure the container once the piece is put on the part.
To glue the PVC coupler to the pipe, I use pipe primer and glue. It's very strong and make a permanent hold.
Once that's on, I slide the container down and press it against the epoxy that I just applied
to the top of the small coupler.
To secure the other part of coupling, I first use epoxy around the top edge of the container
and then again use the PVC pipe primer and glue before sliding the coupler down
and pressing it against the container.
You're left with a very strong and durable handle and base for your static grass applicator.
To finish of the lid, I sand down the inner edge.
This roughens the surface so that the glue that we'll be applying later will have something to grab on to.
To make the mesh, I grab a metal sifter and cut out the middle part.
Mark out a circle so it'll fit inside the lid with a little overhang and then cut out the circle.
It's probably best to use old scissors. I don't think cutting metal with normal scissors could be good for them...
The lid I use has a small lip on the inside which works well for containing the glue.
I press the mesh down around the lip and hold it in place with something heavy.
I use Loctite to glue the mesh in place.
It's a two part epoxy and does a good job of holding the mesh and sticking to the plastic lid.
Now it's almost done. Just a few holes to cut out.
First is the hole for the switch.
Pretty straight forward. Just big enough to make snug fit.
Make sure the part is on a flat surface before drilling.
Otherwise you might bust the plastic container when you press down on the drill.
PVC carves very easy, so a hobby knife should work OK to cut out the shape for the switch.
The high voltage output line from the negative ion generator needs to connect to the wired mesh.
So we cut a hole in the bottom for that to poke trough.
And finally, I cut a hole in the side
so the negative line from the power source can connect to the area we will be applying grass.
We need some sort of support on the inside to hold the generator.
For this, I use a piece of pine cut to length so it won't protrude out the top of the handle.
I cut a notch so the generator will fit nicely.
Obviously a chisel would be the best tool if you have one.
Otherwise you can do what I did and use a wood saw, a screwdriver and a knife. 'Gets the job done.
I wanted the generator to be towards the bottom.
I screw it in to place and check that it fits OK.
That completes the body of the static grass applicator.
Next it's just a matter of wiring it together and putting it to use.
So if you wanna keep going, click on the link just here, and you can start watching part two.
Thank's for watching part one and hope to see you soon. Happy road railing! Cheers!
(It might be a good ide to make the holes before assembly)