Begin by clearing out all of the products and supplies under the sink.
You should also have a shallow pan and a couple of old towels standing by
to catch any water.
And since much of the job will be done on your back,
a pillow will make the work easier to bear.
If you have an electrical outlet beneath your sink,
turn off power to it before you remove the old faucet.
And restore power only after you've tested the new faucet for leaks.
Since you have to work upside down under the sink,
be sure to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from falling debris.
You may need to use a flashlight for better
visibility inside a deep cabinet.
Reach in and shut off the hot and cold water supply valves
by turning them clockwise.
Depending upon the type of valve, this may take anywhere from a quarter turn
to several turns until the water is completely off.
If you don't have stop valves already installed in your bathroom,
you'll need to turn off the water to the entire house.
You might consider installing them under the sink
so you can turn off the water easily in the future.
Valves that haven't been used in a while may be hard to turn.
If you have difficulty, try using a rag or a pair of pliers
to improve your grip.
With the water turned off, open up the faucet
handles to relieve any pressure in the lines.
To remove the old faucet, you'll first need to go under the sink
and disconnect the supply lines that run from the faucet down
to the hot and cold valves.
Each supply line is connected to the corresponding valve by a threaded nut.
Use an adjustable wrench to remove each nut by turning it counterclockwise.
As you do, make sure you stabilize the water
pipe while you loosen the supply lines.
Otherwise, you could compromise any connections behind the cabinet.
It's a good idea to have the pan ready to collect
the small amount of water that will drain out from the disconnected lines.
Once you've disconnected the water supply line on one side,
repeat the process for the other side.
If the valve drips even though the handle is turned completely off,
it means you have a faulty valve.
You'll need to turn off the water to the entire house in order to replace it.
You'll need to take out the old supply line connections to your faucet
before you can remove it.
On this two-handle center set faucet, the two water supply lines
are connected directly to the hot and cold valves.
Because the mounting nut securing the faucet are installed first,
you'll need to unscrew the supply line connections before you can remove them.
If you're removing a single handle faucet, all of your water connections
will be part of the spout assembly since there are no hot and cold handles.
On faucets like this, where the supply lines are built into the faucet--
any mounting hardware is made to slide directly over the lines.
Finally, your old kitchen faucet may have a diverter.
On these faucets, there is a separate supply line
that connects between the spout and a side sprayer.
You'll need to disengage this connection before you
can remove the faucet and sprayer.
One of the difficulties in taking out the old faucet
is reaching up into this tight space and gaining enough leverage
to remove the connections.
There are a couple of important tools that will make this job easier.
A basin wrench contains a ratcheting head with teeth designed to grip
hard to reach retaining knots behind the sink.
The handle pivots 90 degrees allowing you to turn it from below.
This faucet and sink installer is a multi-purpose tool
designed for several under the sink applications.
After unscrewing the nuts connecting the supply lines
to the hot and cold valves, use the basin wrench
to take off the nut connecting the diverter to the sprayer hose.
If you're positive you won't be using the old faucet again,
you can cut the line with a pipe or tubing cutter.
Once you've disconnected all of the water lines under the sink,
you're ready to remove the mounting hardware.
The old faucet will be connected to the underside of the cabinet
by some type of mounting hardware.
A single handle faucet will typically have the mounting hardware
connected to a single shank that contains the hot and cold supply lines.
For a two-handle center set faucet, the mounts
will usually be found on the hot and cold valve bodies.
You'll need to remove all of the mounting hardware
in order to remove the faucet.
If any nuts are mounting hardware is rusted or difficult to remove,
apply a penetrating oil-- like, PBR blaster-- to loosen it.
Give it time to soak in.
And you may need more than one application before you can get it off.
With the mounting hardware removed, the faucet should lift out.
You may need to apply pressure to break any caulk seal.
When you're finished, clean the area thoroughly
around the sink with an approved cleaner before installing your new faucet.
The number and placement of the holes in your countertop or drop in sink
will determine the type of faucet you can put in.
You may have anywhere from one to four holes.
The fourth hole is typically used for a sprayer or soap dispenser.
The distance between the holes is called the spread.
And you can determine your spread by measuring
between the centers of the three main holes.
An 8 inch spread on center is the most common
and is necessary to fit most center set faucets.
A center set faucet is any one where the handles and spout
are all part of one single unit.
A two-handle center set has separate hot and cold handles
that are connected to the base.
These fit cleanly into the outside holes.
A single handle center set faucet has the handle connected directly
to the spout.
You can either mount it directly to the countertop for a one hole installation.
Or use an escutcheon plate which will cover up the two outside holes.
Another option is a widespread faucet, where the handles and the faucet
are separate individual units.
These can be installed with any spread.
Finally, if you'd like a sprayer, but you
don't have enough holes in your countertop--
you might consider a pullout sprayer.
These are part of the spout and they'll pull out and retract as needed.
A center set faucet is any one where the handles and spout
are all part of one single unit.
A two-handle center set has separate hot and cold handles
that are connected to the base.
These fit cleanly into the outside holes.
A single handle center set faucet has the handle connected directly
to the spout.
You can either mount it directly to the countertop for a one hole installation.
Or use an escutcheon plate which will cover up the two outside holes.
Another option is a widespread faucet where the handles and the faucet
are separate individual units.
These can be installed with any spread.
Finally, if you'd like a sprayer, but you
don't have enough holes in your countertop--
you might consider a pullout sprayer.
These are part of the spout and they'll pull out and retract as needed.
With the faucet properly assembled and inserted from above,
you'll need to go below deck for the remainder of the installation.
For most two-handle center set faucets, the anchoring nuts
will go on the underside of the hot and cold valves.
But your faucet may install differently so
consult your owner's manual before proceeding.
Screw the anchoring nuts onto the threaded valves
and tighten them all the way up against the underside of the countertop
or drop in sink.
Before tightening the nuts down completely,
have someone help you make sure the faucet is lined up properly
behind the sink.
Hand tighten only and take care not to crack the surface.
A two-handle faucet will typically have a threaded shank coming out
of each of the hot and cold valves.
These are usually 1/2 inch threads and you'll
need to connect a flexible supply line to each one.
On a center set faucet--
like this one-- the water lines connecting the valves to the spout
are built into the faucet itself.
But on other types of faucets--
like a widespread-- the connections between the valves and the spout
are handled below.
If your unit does not come with built in supply lines,
make sure you purchase the correct sized flexible supply lines
to fit your particular configuration.
Take a small strip of Teflon tape and wrap it clockwise around the threads.
This acts as a lubricant allowing you to make a tighter connection.
Screw the nut on by hand and then tighten it
down as much as you can with a wrench.
Do the same step for the other side.
Now connect each of the supply lines to the corresponding water supply valve.
This is typically a 3/8 inch fitting in most homes.
Wrap the threads of each valve with a strip of Teflon tape--
again, wrapping it clockwise around the threads.
Screw on each nut by hand and tighten it down with an adjustable wrench.
As you do, make sure you secure the pipe for the water supply
valve running into the wall so you don't damage any connections.
Once you've finished one side, repeat this process for the other.
If you wish to install a separate sprayer in a fourth outside hole,
you'll need to purchase a faucet that has this feature.
You'll first need to slide the rubber gasket
over the shank of the hose guide.
This will help prevent moisture from collecting underneath.
If your sprayer base requires sealant, apply
a 1/4 inch bead of plumber's putty.
Now, insert the hose guide into the outside hole from below.
Screw the connecting nut onto the shank up against the underside
of the countertop or drop in sink.
Tighten the nut down with your fingers.
Attach the hose to the sprayer head, then feed the sprayer hose down
through the hose guide.
Under the sink, connect the other end of the hose to the faucets diverter.
This is a valve on the underside of the spout assembly.
Many connections will just snap or slide into place.
This facet has a quick connect feature that attaches the end of the hose
to the diverter.
Your sprayer may attach differently so consult your owner's
manual for complete instructions.
Once you've connected the side sprayer and the water supply lines,
turn the water back on at the hot and cold valves
and check out the operation of your faucet.
Carefully check to make sure there are no leaks.
Also, test the sprayer for proper operation.
If you do detect a slight leak, tighten the connections with a wrench
until the leak stops.
But be careful not to over tighten.
If the leak persists, then turn off the water, unscrew the nut,
and add another layer of Teflon tape to the threads.
Reconnect everything and turn the water back on.
Before proceeding, make sure all the connections are leak-free.
One procedure that's important to do after installing your new faucet
is flushing the lines.
This helps ensure the proper function of the faucet
by removing any debris that may have accumulated during the manufacturing
and installation process.
To do this, unscrew the aerator from the shaft of the faucet.
You may be able to do this by hand or there
may be a tool for this included with your faucet.
With the aerator removed, turn both handles on full blast
and let the water run for about a minute.
Then shut off the water and replace the aerator.
By regularly cleaning and maintaining your faucet,
you can ensure that it will last you for years to come.