in the previous video we took you through a beginner's guide on pre-washing your car
now we're going to jump straight on to the two bucket method now this is going to be
the contact wash and in my hand i have got grit guards and it's really important that you have
one in each bucket and i will explain as we go through the video if you've been following
this car cleaning series then you should know by now that we've carried out an engine bay detail
wheel cleaning door shuts and the pre-wash so once you've ticked off all those then you're
going to be ready to tackle the two bucket method so why do we use two buckets so the
reason we're using the two bucket method is because we got one which is for rinsing
and one for our shampoo so once we've got our wash pad and we've put it on the paintwork and
we've given it its first wash we're not gonna stick it straight in the same bucket because
we don't want to contaminate it we need to make sure that it goes straight into the rinse bucket
before we get washing let's quickly cover some of the do's and some of the don'ts
rules for washing your car avoid using washing up liquid because these will strip away any waxes or
any polishes and not only that it will speed up the oxidation process and don't wash in direct
sunlight or wash if the paint is hot to touch so keep it as cool as possible and make sure you've
got clean water in both buckets and as always make sure you're organized and have plenty of access to
get around the car and last but not least don't use a sponge but instead go for a wash mitt or
better still try one of these so in my hand i have got a wash pad now you may look at it and
think it's gigantic like a pillow but it is super soft and it's really good at absorbing the water
and it's not too heavy either the idea of this is we want to stick it straight into the wash bucket
and we want to wring it out a little bit because we don't want it to hold too much water to the
point you're going to think that your arm's gonna ache so the job of the grit guards is simple
it's aim is to trap any loose dirt that may be floating around in the bucket and although you
can't always see it in there it's amazing how much grit you actually find in the bottom of
the bucket after every wash starting off with the contact wash i want to make sure that we go top
down i don't want to go all the way to the bottom because usually at the bottom of the car that's
where you're still going to find the odd little bits of contaminants now i know we've removed 95
of it during the pre-wash stage but it's just to be on the safe side so that's why we normally go
two thirds of the way down and we leave the last section till last wash pads tend to hold huge
volumes of water and to be honest if you carried out the correct pre-wash then i can't see any
problem in washing in curves circles or straight lines as long as there isn't anything in between
the wash pad or wash mitt or the surface of the paint then there should be no reason whatsoever
why you would cause scratches from moving it in a particular direction and also swells are caused by
friction so even if you do wash in straight lines and there's no guarantee for a swell free finish
if you're pressing too hard so my best advice for people watching this is don't overthink it
this is why we have the pre-wash and grit guards to stop that sort of thing happening but let's
be clear if you're washing a car outside on a windy day then it's going to be the odd chance of
wind picking up tiny particles of dust so pick your wash day wisely if you're struggling to
find where the lower third of the vehicle is you can always use the rear bumper as a guide because
you've got a perfect line here it cuts it off and this is where most of the dirt usually builds up
so i actually have various mitts and pads and i've also got a designated wash mitt for the
lower third of the car on my jobs but that's not all it's not just a wash pad you need it's a good
brush as well now these are great for getting in all the little gaps all the nooks and crannies
it's so easy and they're super soft so you're not going to cause any scratches and they're
perfect for the grills as well so we finally completed the whole car with the contact wash
now we've got to give it a rinse and we got to be doing it quite quick that sun has just decided to
break through the cloud so it's really important that we can get it off as quickly as possible
when rinsing make sure that you get all the suds off leaving nothing left behind
always try to keep the car in the shade prior to drying so once you're finished
you'll be ready to dry it with plenty of time before you get any of those pesky water spots
unfortunately it's not always possible so that's why i say get organized beforehand so you have
your towels right beside you the lance trigger and nozzle that i'm using here is available for nilfus
karcher and kranzel and the 40 degree rubber tip gives you plenty of coverage meaning faster
rinsing times and i'll also list everything below in the description if you want to get
your hands on one of these bad boys and i've also already made a video on this quick release setup
so go check it out right after you press the subscribe button so i hope this has cleared
things up for the two bucket method i know there's a lot of people out there who do get confused they
get overwhelmed by all the information out there but i'm hoping these bite size videos
are going to be really good because you can always come back another day and re-watch it if
you forget where you're going or you just sort of lose track of what's happening within the contact
wash process in our next video we're going to show you everything you need to know about drying a car