in today's video on steel conduit we're looking to apply the skills you've already acquired in other
videos in this playlist i will leave a link to that in the description below and in that playlist
Jake did a double set to required measurement and a 90 degree bend and we're going to put
socket box some distance off the wall so that will be a big double set we come to a fixed point here
where we'll have to have a 90 degree bend and then obviously we'll cut back to the required
length thread and put a coupler on to finish off that conduit we've shown all of those skills
individually and that's what's in the playlist but we're going to bring them all together
to do is tackle our set we need to know the depth of that set let's take a look and measure that now
so you might struggle to see that but we are 76 mil to the back of our set which meets up
with the back of this knockout here so any other considerations obviously we're going
to need to fasten it to the wall that's right so we're going to be fixing this conduit to
the wall using distance saddles we need to take the depth of that saddle into account
again you might struggle to see this but the depth of these distance saddles is six millimetres so
the double set itself if we did one in a previous video at 50 mil set this one's going to be 70 is
that right this one's going to be 70 millimetres and once we take off the depth of the saddle yet
so i've got my length of conduit here because we're working from a fixed measurement
i'm going to put my coupler on first i'm going to make sure that's on
firm but not super tight and that will give me room for fine adjustment should i need it later
yep so now i'm going to go ahead and measure from the end of the conduit
to our first bend and that's going to be 100 millimetres again that's not extremely crucial
so i'll mark the conduit at 100 millimetres
i can now go ahead and insert this into the conduit bender
lifting up the handle under the stop
i'm going to place our mark there at the edge of the form can you just remind me how many degrees
that you look to pull this first bend it's not 45 is it no so i'm going to aim for around 30 degrees
yep so i'm happy with that
now take this out of the conduit bender i remember the measurement we're looking for
in this set is 70 millimetres so i'm going to place this on the table and mark that
so look at this to be 70 mil so we've shown one previously doing 50.
again you're doing it in a couple of positions just to check that we're parallel with the surface
and then same technique just going to mark it and then again i'm going to strike a line underneath
so i've got my line that's the one that's going against the formula yeah
so again insert this back into the conduit bender flipping this 180 degrees
and as we explained in a previous video Gary i need that line to be running
along with this former here following that so just need to go in a fraction further that's right yeah
so we've got that line following the former just there yeah i'm happy with that
and again it's crucial that we get it pointed in the right direction i want
to make sure this is running straight i'm happy with that so i'm ready to bend now
so now you're going to put these two parallel to each other that's right yeah
so again i'd rather under bend it than overbend it i'm going to step back take another look
that looks somewhere close so remove that now see how that is
and again it's crucial we set the first part of the bend correct and not the second
part so we're going to set this again to what we think it would have been which is 70.
and then we look down don't wait to see whether we've got put any more bend into it
see that yeah so we can see that's running out so it needs a little bit more in that very yeah
yeah in relationship to the table you just got a tiny bit more it's not a lot though is it
no so again just fine adjustment there insert that back into the conduit bender it should sit
nicely into the position which you need it now shouldn't it yeah you'll know when it's
effectively in the right place
so again setting the first one in the correct position not the second one you're gonna set
that one to 70ml again yep okay that's set and then we look down to see whether we're running
we're running well it looks pretty good actually is it looks good to me
so you're happy with that the set now is at 70 mil i'm happy with that yeah but by adding the saddle
in this case a distance saddle you'll add the six mil that you needed yeah that's right so that'll
be perfect for the measurement of 76 mil off the wall okay so i think we've got to do another
measurement now from the end of the conduit to the back of the bend we've got to take that distance
saddle into account again that's correct so we'll be taking the measurement as you say
from this end where it meets the socket to the back of the bend so we're going
to go ahead now and take our measurement from our socket to the back of our bend
which is 656 millimetres as we said earlier we need to minus the depth of the distance saddle
off that measurement which is 6 millimetres so what's your good match telling you the measurement
is that's going to give us a measurement of 650 millimetres so that's going to be our
back of the bend measurement that we've seen in a previous video but we've now got to take into
consideration that set and obviously locating it correctly in the conduit bending machine
so i'm going to now go ahead and take a measurement from the edge of the conduit to
the back of our bend so this was the measurement you did from the side of the socket box and you
said it was going to be 650 millimetres that's right yeah so take your time to get it right
so that will be our back of the bend measurement that's right yep
is there any top tips now because obviously i could pen this in all kinds of ways where i'm
not going to run parallel with the double set in the right position yep so we'll take this over
and visualize this which way we're going to bend this so that's the way our set's
going to be the bend needs to be coming towards us so i'm just going to go ahead and
place a mark on the side there now i know if that's in the conduit bender and the line is
facing up that's going to be going the wrong way the bend will be going away from us i want that
line to be facing to the ground ah so that line or face of the ground you'll get your set in the
correct position and obviously when you bring it back over and rotate it round it will fit
the job i like that's a little tip so insert this back into the conduit bender so this is
the bit i would suggest that students need to really think before they do any more bending
right so the first one is that mark that we're going to bring in our conduit
and look at um getting it squared off to the former is that right that's right yeah so i'm
going to insert my scrap conduit into the former use my set square to make sure it's 90 degrees
and that line wants to be running down in between my set square and scrap conduit so that's parallel
with the line i think maybe a fraction further in isn't it yeah okay so those
two now marry up and that should be 650 from the end of the conduit to the back of the bend
obviously you wouldn't want it to move at this stage so you're going to put some pressure on it
yeah and then we're going to bend that one now you said about this other line can i see it on the top
cat seat on the top so it must be on the bottom and now obviously it's crucial that we line
these up correctly do you agree that's right so i need to ensure this is running straight which
it is so i'm ready to bend okay a lot of top tips there take your time being the most important one
so i'm going to step back and take a look again you can see that needs quite a bit more
step back take another look just a touch more
i'll take that and have a look
so bring it into a fixed line again like we did before and then i'm going to square it
off against the surface yeah yeah it needs quite a bit more in that Gary and what we
always said was probably best to be under bent so a little bit more bend in there
okay
take another look at that yep i'm really happy with that so i'm going to go ahead bring this
conduit in and offer it up just to confirm it's correct moment of truth so we're sitting against
the wall there and if i follow it round ah you're short mate you're sure i touch short Gary but
you're forgetting the six millimetre distance that we took off for the distant saddles okay because
that's against the wall we're gonna bring it out six and that's gonna be perfect isn't it yeah
so now you've gotta make another cut haven't you because obviously we're now uh gonna need to cut
it to thread it to come into this box yep so we're gonna measure from this surface we've already got
our coupler in here so i'm not gonna measure right up to the socket i'm gonna measure up to
half of the coupler oh so you're gonna be brave i'm going to be brave going to do it first time
so that's halfway through the coupler you're going to take a measurement now i've known students to
actually just cut the conduit here where the box is and start threading coupler on coupler off
coupler on so that's more of a you know a safety net but you're gonna go half a coupler in yeah
yep that's right so half that coupler we are at 384 millimetres okay and again we've got
to take into account the distance saddle on this side which is at minus six millimetres
so what's the measurement now you're going to cut it out 378 millimetres and then we're going
to cut it thread it put on the coupler and then it should fit perfectly between the two points
so i'm now going to go ahead and mark my measurement from the back of the bend
that's 378 millimetres as we said so we're on to the back of the bend there using the set square
again it's worth taking your time isn't it just to get this right
because you're going for bang on measurement that's right yeah so 378 so that's going to
be cut there you're going to put a number of threads on it you're going to wind on your coupler
and in a 1'er you think you're going to get it between those two fixed points yep good luck
so we've shown this in a previous video presentation so if you haven't checked
this one out and you just want to learn the technique of how to do
the perfect thread then obviously check out that video we're just going to run
through this one we're not going to over elaborate what you're doing on this one
again i just say Gary i've done a video on this before i'm just
going to apply forward pressure just to get this started that's on there
now
so i can begin threading now
a couple of turns back just to clear that out
and i've got a couple of threads poking through so i'm happy with that
important now we ream it isn't it and clean it up yep so remove all the excess compound
i'm going to use a round file this time
just in case now putting the coupler on we'll see if it's the right dimensions
and again i'm going to make sure this is firm but not super tight
so can you undo that with your hands would be the trick if you're going to do that with
a hand it probably isn't quite like that that's that's that'll pass an assessor
let's take it over moment of truth let's find out
so i'm just going to loosely put this in first gives you something to lever
off then doesn't it obviously the two fixed points so loosely put the bush in this end
at this stage i'd rather be a little long than a little short wow there we go oh beautiful so
you just you just push that back into those two saddles that bushes loosely in there
and you're in so if we were a fraction long wouldn't be a problem with it with
just a case of taking couplers off adding a thread
tightening up and reintroducing it into the position so that is incredible
hopefully you were as impressed as i was with Jake's skills in order but the double set
and the bend into given dimensions and get it in their first time we would suggest that there
could be some adjustment can they add in threads doing couplers a little bit tighter etcetera
coming into this playlist on steel conduit we want your feedback what would you like to see Jake do
please leave those comments below and as always we'll get back to all of them