Hello, I am Johannes Müller and I am a student
At the Academy for Interior Design in Garmisch Partenkirchen. And today,
We're building the Rising Table together. This is a modular side table
With different functions that is designed to be stackable.
In the first step of the Rising Table we'll create the contour, starting
with an offset, then finishing at full depth.
We leave two millimeters of material. This is cut off at the end
With the saw and milled away. And after finishing, we cut two more
Pockets. These serve to stabilize the legs a bit more.
can. With the bag, we are just sizing the oil out. The rest can
we leave it. If we cut there with the band saw, the rest falls away
And we can then finish with a flush trim router. In the first step, we have here
A template board in front of us with the same thickness as our finished board.
Now we can just align the workpiece in front of it. And the template board
is a little bit bigger in each dimension. So we can always see the edges and
we'll simply use a flush trim router to finish. And the advantage to this
Is that we can now cut the entire contour with all its curves
Out of this board and keep our radii accurate.
Here, we have the contour just like the contour
on exactly the same template. That's where the advantage is.
For the contour of the tools as an additional improvement
tenth of a radius always at these sharp corners. This is done for large
CNC is also like this, this has the advantage that the machine is a little softer around these edges.
because for it it is then like a radius, that is, it does not have to completely
brake and go sharply around the corner, but it runs then a bit
more elegantly. You can't see it either, but it is simply nicer to mill.
And now we switch to the workstation and we'll clamp that again
at the workstation and we will mill out these tenons horizontally here.
And here above the data connection with the special fiber optic, so to speak.
For this processing we dive outside into workpiece approaching
then the contour, mill the contour. It is important in a slow feed
and concentrated, so that you do not exchange. This is important. Milling first
around it and the contour is laid out so that you can drive out of here again. Then you can
one emerge and a nice ledge created that it's necessary,
because it prevents discarding prevents. It is a so-called
Surface fuse. From the traditional Wood craft now used here,
just to fix the surfaces on the one hand to fix them before discarding
and on the other hand it also allows for the tantalization and shrinkage
of the table tops. And this is towards the inside. In the next step, we now have
milled the connection, again with the milling cutter. Important again
very concentrated and precise milling. That he does not exchange beforehand.
Until the end. Only then up. There the straight bar also for decades
support the furniture so that it shape and b remains stable. So
in this step we will now the legs connected with a radius six
cutter with start-up rings and here we have then added to this radius six
on all sides. We simply guide the workpiece past the milling cutter and mill all
four sides. And we do exactly the same we do with the transverse floors
elements. And later we change the table top to a radius three cutter
and then mill them in the same way on the approach on both sides. The step is simple
important because it turns the part into a furniture part into a furniture component, because
rounding, the frame becomes more elegant, it becomes softer. You don't see so
the wood strength, but it seems relieved. And that,
but the elements, which then make the then particularly at the end. These are
the details that matter. Before we now check the fit. The degree
Connections in the table top makes sense, everything just times before
so that it already roughly fits and then and then the radii and corresponding
so that everything is correct. is correct. And then after that we put it together,
if it then no longer comes apart apart. That's not so bad, because then
all the grinding has already happened has happened. When grinding itself is important,
that we design staggered sanding with a grit of 120. If you sand with 120
sanded through, we continue with 180. with 180. That is then so to speak
already our grinding. So then everything must everything must fit. Regarding must not be
scratches or anything else be a surface here, they must
manually, because we can't grind it with the because we can't use the start-up ring
around it. That means then always best also so 100 20s sandpaper.
I recommend a dowel, because then you just put more pressure on it when
and then you can finally grind this radius finally grind this radius at 120.
And after that you do the whole thing then again with 180. Makes nice and clean,
so that it then fits visually. Finally. In the next step. I have
put a pad underneath here. The components are now finished
and should not be scratched be scratched. And now we just try
how well it just sits in it. Just stick it in there a little bit.
See. Okay, it's in nicely. In the last third it's going a little bit now
stricter. We will do that afterwards when we force a final together.
With the clamps everything comes together together. Perfect. Now
we glue the frames together. The longest saga with the two cross say
to a so-called hair. Before that it is important to deliver the frames
with adhesive tape. That is, if the glue, which we specify here and here,
swells out, we can simply remove it afterwards. This is here
the advantage. And it is also important to give the allowances that we use as well
with a tape. If we then fix it here with the clamp, sticks us
the allowance does not stick and we can and we can simply take it away again afterwards. Exactly.
And then I would say now stick. We have now taken off the clamp.
Depending on the glue, it is important to wait the appropriate time. For white
glue it is approximately always 45 minutes. There is express line, there it is faster.
But 45 minutes to an hour is a good a good time. The glue, you can see now,
has come out. We will now with a sharp iron. It is
better to wait a little bit until it dries up or slightly dried
because when it is liquid, it smears the surface and it smears the surface and so it leaves
it is easier to remove. When the flanks are now all clean and free of glue
we can now slide on our table tops. on. That's what
here by hand for the time being. Then we have edge protection here.
I'm going to use this so that I don't don't damage the edges now.
Here also again and then take force to force the whole thing together now.
But leave about ten millimeters in the middle. millimeters in the middle. The rest pushes
when we glue the legs to the plate. to the plate. Machining the legs
at the workstation. This has the advantage of very high accuracy.
We can now, when we have this control have processed, simply rotate the leg
and see here this other contour. Then take the next leg. Can
clamp it in the same way. The adjusted mortise on the leg recommend
to use the workstation as well. To do that, we'll just clamp the leg like this.
The only important thing is that we have to dismantle the bracket at the point
and then we can show all four legs one after the other exactly. Now see
we compare the Rising Table. One state works quite simply.
Just with two clamps. Where we here force the legs together
and connect them to the table top. I added spacers at the bottom,
which ensure that the distance simply fits. That it is correct. That is
the clear dimension of the frames. Without the tenons the allowances. When one is alone,
is good. If one fastened with tab before, then they just lift
by themselves. You can apply the clamps relaxed when there are two of you.
Of course, one on one side, another on the other. side, another on the other
side is more recommendable, is more relaxed. But alone works
it the same way. Then simply here with the tape over the surface at the end
over it. It works like this You take a bearing of two edges, it goes easily at the head
and if the lines end at the same height height, then it is in alignment
and nicely glued. And otherwise we have the problem that maybe
wobbles at the end. You have to you have to be very careful with it.
Therefore on a flat surface for gluing, if possible if possible
place on the machine table. At the end, then you know it's 100%.
Plana is. Then the whole thing fits. The fifth leg up. The materialist is
on the one hand intended as a substitute in case something goes wrong. On the other hand
it is also there for the knackers and at the end to eat. First
the end faces are milled, then you can cut the circular saw, it off
to the finished thickness and grind the radius on it. For what gives
the caps? The idea of the Writing Table is that it can be stacked on top of each other,
but also works as a single piece of furniture furniture. That is, you can stack it
also as a side table. You can also sit on it that way if you want to
would like to. For this there is now this cap. Can you just put on it here
put. And then the table has a nice finish. Would you now like
stack the module after all, it is super easy to insert 0.05 € or nickel here,
lever out and then easily remove again. Makes one yes all four
and stack them constantly. Then we come finally to the final step
the surface. It's a very important step because, for example, my father has
always said, with the surface you can you can win or lose. That's why
special attention is required here. is required. We will oil the ash tree. For this purpose we use
a white pigment, fourth oil. This has the advantage of making the ash more beautiful
aging, because the white pigment then prevents it from turning yellow so quickly.
What happens with light colored woods and we are going to oil them twice in total?
That means now once the first application, then let it dry overnight, then there is
there is an intermediate step with 240 or 320. And after that it will be applied again.
a second time. Maybe with an oil that has a little bit less
than the first time. Then the the surface more natural at the end.
The first time it is important that there is a lot is on it, that it can soak in nicely.
We then remove the excess then only with the cloth.
But only after a certain time, that the oil has a good chance to soak in.
In general, organic oils are now not as harmful to the skin as varnishes.
or thinner. In general, however, it is but of course it is recommended to protect the skin,
when it comes into contact with the substances comes into contact with the substances, because the whole thing is then absorbed.
through the skin. I personally like to use oils that have their ingredients
that you know what contents are in it and that are in it and which are as natural as possible.
Components contain. Just the one side ready, you turn the table
simply around. Here it comes in the meantime. Especially important to me,
that you apply South, because in the end is the surface at the end,
which is then most stressed. On the outside, it's to say that sucks a lot.
That means you always have to put a little more on it. And there we will already
what has given on it. Let's see then still maybe again Is really still
something on it? Or it is already completely sucked in. If it is already completely
sucked in, one may also go over it go over it again. By the way, is not
only with solid wood, but also with MDF. with MDF. And it can be
we let it soak in for about ten minutes and then you take off the excess. Okay,
then the oil is now mostly dried up. Now we can start,
to take off the surplus. I often use often cotton lamps or old T-shirts.
The only important thing is good. With light wood natural, light fabric is recommended.
The important thing is that it does not sparkle. That is, otherwise we have all these
little fluff in the pores and it's impossible to get them out of there
to get them out. I go over it several times several times, because that has the advantage that it then
at the end the super super nice smooth. This makes the surface shine
a little more. We now have less over it. But I don't think that's a
disadvantage. In contrast to that, we just have something. Super, super nice feel.
You can also take such a bar, there the cloth then lies around it and goes
then here again purely that one here the side well. You can also notice it,
when you drive over the legs. At the beginning it is rather so rough and sticks and then
also smooth and it is much much nicer to drive over it on the side. First again
roughly. If then nothing more glitters, then perfect. In the end, that went.
The light. Then you see Conor take off the gloves. Man over.
Very carefully. Not with pressure, because otherwise there will be marks again. But
that if fits. From summer ready. They let it dry overnight,
do the same thing again tomorrow with an intermediate step and then have a
Super nice side table. And now it stands before us, the Rising Table. I hope,
it is fun to build. I have tried tried to keep it as simple as possible,
that you can do all the editing at the workstation and at the workstation
can be done. The great thing is, it consists of classic wood connections that you
can mill very precisely here, which is super Fun to do with the fittings,
when you then push it together in the end. That's kind of a point that I
was particularly important to me. The second idea behind it is that it is
the template and that everyone, who then replicates the table, in the end effect
makes his own furniture out of it. You takes the type of wood that you like, you make your own
the surface finish on it that you you want and you build as many of them as you
want to use it just as a side table, as a stool, as a shelf
or also as a room divider, if you a little bit more,
can gladly use. And finally that was now times of me the beginning. It goes
further. It will surely still some in Shape Up will follow. It is not yet
the end and now I wish you much fun with building.