Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, we'll discuss the 1950s quintessential
bad boy, James Dean. Now, you can use some of his style tips to add some casual cool
to your looks.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
Best remembered as disaffected Jim Stark in the 1955 film "Rebel Without a Cause", he
was also known for his whirlwind life that was cut short at just 24 years of age. The
casual cool of James Dean lives on a pop culture today. There are several lessons to be learned
from this bad boy of the silver screen. And despite being outside the typical mold for
an entry into this series,
we still believe that he is a gentleman of style.
Now, by the way, this video is another installment in our "How to Dress Like" series, which you
can find the full playlist of here. Let's take a moment to look at James Dean's life
and career before we take a look at how he styled himself.
James Byron Dean was born on February 8, 1931, in Marion, Indiana. The only child of Winton
Dean, a farmer, and Mildred Marie Wilson. After his father left farming to become a
dental technician, Dean moved with his family to Santa Monica, California. Now, Dean's mother
died of cancer when he was just nine years old and his father sent him to live with his
aunt and uncle back in Fairmount, Indiana.
In school, Dean was a great student he played baseball and varsity basketball.
He studied drama and competed in public speaking. After graduating from Fairmount High School
in 1949,
Dean moved back to California to live with his father and stepmother. He enrolled in
Santa Monica College, majoring in pre-law. He later transferred to UCLA and changed his
major to drama, which his father disapproved of. And while at UCLA, Dean was selected to
play Malcolm in Macbeth and also participated in other acting workshops on campus. Now,
in January 1951, he dropped out of UCLA to pursue a full-time career as an actor. Dean's
first television appearance was in a Pepsi Cola commercial and his first speaking role
was as John the Apostle in an Easter television special. While struggling to get jobs in Hollywood,
Dean also worked as a parking attendant at CBS Studios in Hollywood. He met Rogers Brackett,
a radio advertising executive, who offered him professional advice. In October of 1951,
Dean moved to New York City to become a stunt tester for the game show Beat the Clock. He
also appeared in episodes of several CBS television series, such as Studio One
and Lux Video Theater. He then gained admission to The Actors Studio to study method acting
under Lee Strasberg. Proud of this accomplishment, Dean mentioned the Actors Studio in a 1952
letter to his family and he's quoted as saying, "The greatest school of the theater. It houses
great people like Marlon Brando. Very few get into it. It is the best thing that can
happen to an actor. I'm one of the youngest to belong." Now, it might seem hard to believe
given this very strong image still today, but James Dean actually only started in three
movies before his death. Now, in 1953, director Elia Kazan was looking for an actor to play
the role of Cal Trask, an emotionally complex young man in John Steinbeck's novel "East
of Eden". Kazan said that he wanted a Brando for the role and the screenwriter suggested
Dean. Steinbeck, who met with Dean, did not like him personally, but did find them perfect
for the part. I'm not sure if you know this, but much of Dean's performance in this film
is actually unscripted. His most famous moment of improv occurs in a heated exchange between
Cal and his father. Dean's outfits in this film range from workwear to casual ensembles
with sweaters,
as well as sport coat combinations and suits. In recognition for his performance in East
of Eden, Dean was nominated in 1956 in the Academy Awards for the Best Actor in a Leading
Role. The first official posthumous acting nomination in the Academy Awards' history.
Released in the spring of 1955, East of Eden was the only film starring Dean that he would
see debut in his lifetime. Dean's next film, Rebel Without a Cause, will become hugely
popular among teenagers. As Jim Stark, Dean gave the quintessential performance of a restless
teenager; hiding behind a mask of indifference,
yet yearning for love recognition and purpose. In the film's opening scene, a drunk Jim slouches
on a curb. The conservative tan suit he wears marks him as an adult, but his movements are
those of a frightened child. Jim suffers emotionally because of his father's weakness and he's
determined to not end up like him. He seeks out one daredevil challenge after the next,
falls in love with Judy, befriends outcast Plato, and finds himself wrapped up in a night
of gang violence and murder. While some outfits in the film are more formal, Dean's primary
outfit was that of a red Harrington jacket,
a T-shirt, blue jeans, and boots, but more on that later. Following the successes of
Eden and Rebel,
Dean wanted to avoid becoming typecast as a rebellious teen, so he took on the role
of Jett Rink,
a Texan ranch hand in the movie "Giant" in 1956. Now, the movie follows rancher Bick
Benedict
played by Rock Hudson, his wife Leslie played by Elizabeth Taylor, and Rink. Dean can be
seen in typical Western wear as a young man and in a white tie when older. To portray
an older version of his character in the film's later scenes, Dean would dye his hair gray
and shave parts of it off to showcase a receding hairline. Dean received his second posthumous
Best Actor Academy Award nomination for his role in Giant. At the time of his death, he
was set to star as Rocky Graziano
in Somebody Up There Likes Me in 1956. That film went on to win two Oscars with Graziano
played by Paul Newman. Tragically, Dean's life and white hawk career were cut short
at the young age of 24. A fan of auto racing since childhood, Dean planned on developing
a racing career. Beginning in 1954,
Dean started purchasing vehicles, including a motorcycle, the Tiger T-110, and the Porsche
356.
Just before filming began on "Rebel", he competed in his first racing event in Palm Springs,
California -
winning first place in the novice class and second place in the main event. His racing
continued in Bakersfield, California a month later. This is where he finished first in
his class and third overall.
Dean hoped to compete in the Indianapolis 500. But, his busy schedule made it impossible.
Warner Bros. barred him from all racing during the production of "Giant". Dean had finished
shooting his scenes and the movie was in post-production when Dean decided to start racing again. Dean
was scheduled to compete at a racing event in Salinas, California, September 30th, 1955.
German mechanic Rolf Wütherich, who maintained Dean's Porsche 550 Spider, encouraged Dean
to drive the car from Los Angeles to Salinas to break it in. The mechanic was also Dean's
passenger. At 3:30 PM, Dean was ticketed for speeding, but then continued on Route 466.
At approximately 5:45 PM, a car was passing through an intersection while turning ahead
of the Porsche. Unable to stop in time, Dean's Porsche slammed
into the driver's side of the turning car, bouncing across the pavement onto the side
of the highway.
Wütherich was thrown from the car, but Dean was trapped inside with his neck broken. Remarkably,
the other driver only had minor injuries. Despite medical attention, Dean was pronounced
'dead on arrival' at the Paso Robles War Memorial Hospital at 6:20 PM. An estimated 600 mourners
attended his funeral, while another 2,400 fans gathered outside the building during
the procession. Today, the crash site has been designated the James Dean Memorial Junction.
Despite his tragic death, Dean's legacy and impact have only continued to grow. As we
mentioned, American teenagers identified with Dean and the roles he played, especially that
of Jim Stark in "Rebel Without a Cause". Additionally,
Dean's on-screen persona had an influence on the development of rock-and-roll music
and culture.
Elvis Presley said in a 1956 interview for Parade Magazine, "I've made a study of Marlon
Brando, poor Jimmy Dean, and of myself and I know why girls go for us. We're something
of a menace. I don't know anything about Hollywood, but I know you can't be sexy if you smile.
You can't be a rebel if you grin." In their book on Dean, authors Lawrence Frascella and
Al Weisel said, "The industry trade magazine Music Connection even went as far as to call
Dean the first rock star." Now, with the dean's life and legacy explored, let's now dig deeper
into his signature style.
Dean didn't abide by Hollywood standards of the time, instead choosing to live by his
own rules.
Many of the biggest male movie stars of the 1950s, including Humphrey Bogart, Gary Cooper,
or Cary Grant, were of the previous generation and they represented old Hollywood with their
side parted hairstyles and tailored suits. Meanwhile, Dean took a much more relaxed approach
to dressing.
Early in his career, he would show up barefoot with safety pins holding together his torn
trousers and he would arrive at lunch dates shirtless, wearing old jeans. His disheveled
appearance and vulnerable screen performances helped to find a new era of masculinity; one
that was characterized by a rugged blend of machismo and sensitivity. It's likely that
the years he spent on an Indiana farm influenced his largely function-first wardrobe. The bright
red Harrington jacket worn in "Rebel"
will forever be his signature look. But, Dean also wore a number of other lightweight jackets
of greater versatility including a leather biker jacket with a fur collar. This is clearly
inspired by his hero Marlon Brando. Now, prior to the 50s, the T-shirt was considered an
undergarment, but
Brando changed that in "A Streetcar Named Desire" in 1951 and Dean continued the trend
in his own films.
He likely favored T-shirts for their ease and simplicity, pairing them with denim, boots,
penny loafers, and a cigarette. Today, an outfit consisting of a T-shirt and jeans is
the norm for a great many men. But, in Dean's time, it was an act of defiance, taking courage
to wear. When dressing more conventionally, Dean's style was still simple and functional.
He could wear a standard suit,
sport coat, or blazer in colors like brown or navy along with a shirt, khakis, and loafers.
He was often rebellious in his clothing choices, but projected a masculine image.
Simply stated: James Dean was an individual. Now, to round out today's video, let's discuss
how you can incorporate James Dean's style into your wardrobe. We'll give particular
focus to his iconic "Rebel" outfit and we'll provide a few other tips and tricks as well.
First, the Harrington windbreaker.
No piece of clothing is more closely associated to James Dean than the red Harrington windbreaker
he wore in "Rebel". Named for its association to the character Rodney Harrington in the
1960s TV
series "Peyton Place" and alternatively called a "blouson". It's a lightweight, waist-length
piece of outerwear, which layers quite well. Even in the cooler months, you can learn more
about it in this video. Now, you can look like Dean by getting one in bright red or
in other colors like burgundy,
beige, or navy, which would also be quite versatile. Similarly, wearing it with a T-shirt
and boots and jeans will give you a distinctly 50s vibe. But, the Harrington can be layered
equally well with button-up shirts like flannels, odd trousers, and derby shoes or loafers.
Alternatively, you could try a related piece of outerwear like a suede bomber jacket worn
with jeans for a more rugged look.
As with the T-shirt, denim blue jeans have become a core piece of American wear since
the 1950s and it's important to note that Dean's performance in Rebel was definitely
a factor. Now, he wore a straight cut - not too loose and not too tight throughout the
leg. Now, they had a high rise in a medium blue wash. This classic style is produced
by many brands even today such as Levi's and American Apparel. In particular, the Levi's
style, known as the 501, is a popular choice.
You can find a review on that style here. Now, in "Rebel", Dean wore the rider style
by Lee. Given the time period, Dean's trousers had a fuller cut and a higher rise than what
might be seen today.
Now, you can opt to wear a higher-rise pair if you truly want to replicate that 50s aesthetic.
Now, for more modern take, go for a contemporary rise and a dark wash and with something that
tapers close to the ankle. In either case, your jeans should project an effortless, working-man
masculinity. Layer your outfit with a leather jacket and leather boots. Now, this ensemble
will be worthy of both Dean and Marlon Brando. Finally, cuff or pin roll your jeans to show
off your footwear and for some added extra style. Next, the T-shirt. Along with Marlon
Brando, James Dean transformed the T-shirt from being a utilitarian undergarment into
being the backbone of a hyper-casual attire. If you're going for that simplistic style
that dean was famous for, a T-shirt is an absolute essential. As with any other garment,
fit is key. Dean wore T-shirts that were well-fitted through the chest and accentuated his arms.
All without hugging them. If you do plan to wear a T-shirt visibly, don't wear the same
type of T-shirt you would wear as an undergarment. You know,
the kind of you get in a multi-pack from Target or Walmart. Instead, spend a few more dollars
to get something that will flatter your form, something that can stand up to multiple launderings.
Now, to look like Dean, pair the T-shirt with traditional blue jeans and boots. You can
take a look at this video for six different outfit suggestions.
Boots. In Rebel Without a Cause, Dean rounded out his iconic outfit, a Harrington jacket,
T-shirt, jeans, with a pair of dark jodhpur boots and, whether you're deliberately attempting
such a look or not, leather boots should be a staple in any man's footwear collection.
They're versatile in terms of formality and ensemble. They're incredibly comfortable and
highly durable. A quality pair maintained well can last decades. And one of the most
popular styles of boots today is the Chelsea boot.
Now, this pairs equally well with dress trousers, semi-formal pants, as well as denim. Now,
picking up a pair of Chelsea boots or other related styles in black or brown will provide
a lot of opportunity for some different combinations. Now, just remember, quality footwear is an
investment
and boots is no exception. Snapping up any random pair you might see on sale only means
that you're probably gonna have to buy another pair again in a few months or even a few years.
Instead, buy from a reputable source that uses high-quality materials. Now, this will
help you save money in the long run,
in addition to helping you look your best. Next, the polo shirt. Now, when not wearing
a T-shirt, Dean can be seen wearing its slightly dressier sibling, the polo. Now, in this way,
he was adapting the prep look that also defined his generation. Such a look is incredibly
simple to achieve and is definitely timeless. Dark solid colors are the safest and most
versatile options. These can be worn tucked in or untucked. It all depends on the formality
level of your overall outfit. Polo shirts compare easily with both cotton trousers like
flannels or chinos as well as with denim. Their versatility is what makes them a true
style staple. You can also wear a polo under a sport coat, then pair it with odd trousers
and loafers. Now, this is a more semi-formal ensemble, but that's still relaxed.
Sweaters. From a starring role in "East of Eden" to his iconic photoshoot for "Life Magazine"
in 1954
entitled "Torn Sweater", he was also frequently seen in knitwear. In "Eden", he wore a buff-colored
v-neck over a white dress shirt paired with khakis. For Life, as the title would suggest,
a worn and frayed, black mock turtleneck was the centerpiece of this photoshoot. Each of
these styles of sweater, while different in attitude, are still versatile. As such, men
looking to try Dean-inspired knitwear can do so by looking into neutral tones in v-neck
or crewneck sweaters, pairing them with a pair of khakis, chinos, or even denim. Alternatively,
a black or similarly dark turtleneck could be paired with some odd trousers or even dark
wash denim for a reserved, monochromatic look. You'll be safest with knitwear when avoiding
extravagant shades and, instead, sticking with things like grays,
blues, blacks, browns, even greens. Such colors are fairly universal without trousers and
boots,
ensuring a variety of style and combinations. The Breton shirt. Hailing from the Brittany
region of France, the first iteration of Breton shirts were designed with tightly-knit wool
to protect fishermen from water and wind. They eventually evolved into a blue and white
striped shirt.
Sailors have sported that look since the beginning of the 19th century. And in 1858, the garments
were officially adopted into the French naval uniform. Coco Chanel first brought Breton
shirts into the realm of popular fashion. And from there, they are adopted by such icons
such as James Dean,
Audrey Hepburn, and even John Wayne. Some men consider stripes difficult to pull off,
but this does not have to be the case. Going for garments with narrow stripes and simple
color combinations can be a great first step. The long-sleeved shirt inspired by the original
Breton shirt will be a great way to start incorporating stripes into your wardrobe.
Sunglasses and eyeglasses. Whenever you spend time in the sun, sunglasses are both stylish
and functional; protecting your eyes and adding an unmistakable element of cool. Dean knew
this and he often supported a pair of round tinted sunglasses with a metallic frame. And
while such styles remain very popular today, you can choose any style that you prefer,
just so long as they fit your face shape and skin tone well. In addition to wearing sunglasses
when outdoors, Dean could also be seen indoors wearing a pair of brown, round tortoiseshell
glasses when reading. It's a testament to his inherent sense of style that he was able
to pair a traditional look of the tortoiseshell glasses with his otherwise very casual style.
Especially when outdoors and wearing sunglasses, wearing a lighter fabric in the summer, such
as linen,
is a great way to stay cool and maintain a smart aesthetic. Though perhaps not to the
same degree of his clothing, he was also quite popular for his hairstyle. This disheveled
quiff-like pompadour projected a devil-may-care vibe. Now, this was in line with the rest
of his sartorial choices. Before
Dean, the quiff wasn't a popular style. It would be considered too unprofessional for
most men.
Dean made the style of his own and it's since become a popular style for many men. Even
having another moment in the 2010s. Now, if you do decide to change your hairstyle to
look more like Dean's,
go to a skilled stylist who can cut your hair to the proper length. With the bang somewhere
between your eyebrows and the bottom of your eye and with the back and sides, a scissor
cut, relatively long. This will help create a rounded look from the front. After a cut
and a shower, simply take a small amount of pomade and work it into your hands to get
the pomade nice and warm.
Work the pomade into your hair evenly, making sure all the hair has some product on it.
Then, take a hairdryer and a comb or a brush and, on low heat, blow dry your hair. Then,
style as desired. With a bit of hairspray for hold, the James Dean quiff is yours. And
while the word "icon" certainly has become overused in recent decades, it seems quite
fair that it does suit James Dean. Whether it's because of his genuine talent as an actor
or the fact that his death at the age of 24 left him frozen in time to the moving going
public. The combination of his rebellious characters and his casual style created the
perfect storm for inspiration. The style was largely timeless quality featuring pieces
simply rooted into functionality and versatility. Watch any of his films and peruse a few photos
and his confidence and cool shine through. Do you have a favorite James Dean performance
or wardrobe item? Share with us in the comments below. Today, I'm wearing a dark navy turtleneck
with dark wash jeans and dark brown leather boots. And, of course, finishing off the outfit
with a pair of Fort Belvedere socks. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks
like these.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪