For those of you that have already watched one of my oblique hipped roof videos
You would have already seen this plate layer
and as you can see we have a unusual situation where we have a couple of corners that aren't at 90 degrees so
the oblique hip was one way that we can
form a roof on this type of
this type of shape
However, the other way to do it is what we call a Skew gable so in this video what I want to show you is
the members that are in a skew gable where they go obviously and the bevels that we're going to need to produce
to be able to cut a skew gable roof, so
as with a normal gable roof our skew gable is made up of a ridge
Lots of common rafters
however
This time we also have a couple of rafters which are on
the angle or on the skew
And because we have these rafters on the skew you're going to have to have something cutting into them
So we end up with jack rafters
That's our basic lay up and looks a bit like that
Now obviously we're gonna have to fill in the end, so we're going to need some gable studs
We're gonna need purlins
We're gonna need the ceiling frame and everything else that we'd normally need in a gable roof
So that's the skew gable. It's a little bit simpler than the oblique hip
but you know horses for courses if
You want this on the house or the client wants this then you can go this way
So there's a few new bevels that we need
To cut this roof and a couple of old ones, so we'll go through the bevels quickly
The first one obviously the plumb bevel for the common rafter
doesn't change and
the level bevel
Same again, so they're familiar
We also need to have an edge bevel for our creeper as we have before this one's gonna be a little bit steeper than we are used to
depending on the angle that the skew is we have to have an edge bevel to cut on to this
jack rafter that runs into here and
Also, this one that runs in over here be the same bevel
So then we have to have because our
Gable
Rafters are running on the skew there a fraction longer then our common rafters, so they actually they going to have their own
plumb bevel
and then they have their own level bevel just because they're running that a little bit further and
again because it's on the skew
It actually needs to have its own edge bevel
So when it butts into the ridge
We have a bevel there to cut
the
end of the skew
Gable rafter also that that angle needs to be put onto the back of the bird's mouth as well
Where it meets the plate and the same angle can also be used for the end of the
Ridge just there
Now important with this angle
It needs to be cut or drawn onto the rafter
Before you cut the backing angle. I'll talk about the backing angle a second, but this angle needs to go on first so just
do just a point always cut your backing angle last
Okay, and then number 7 Bevel 7 is our backing angle now
what happens
that's the backing angle there
and you can see it's in line with
the rest of our rafters now, I've put a little block in here
so this little block here. This is a
square piece of
Framing material without the backing angle, and you can see it actually would stick up out
of the plane of this roof
bit hard to see on this drawing, but if I just
drop a line through there, okay
and
I'm gonna say you can see
That with the backing angle on it
Okay that gives us a continuous line all the way through didn't have the backing angle
We would actually have that much of our rafter sticking up
into the line and you know disrupting our battens, so that's what the backing angle does
so that's a new one
and then we can go back we've got our face bevel of our purlins and
the edge bevel
Of our purlins and there we go nine bevels
to cut the skew gable roof