Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette!
Today's video is specifically for shorter men because we discuss how to dress taller
and leaner so you look your best.
Even though you might not be the tallest guy around, there are ways in terms of fit, accessories,
and clothing items that make you appear a lot taller than you actually are.
So what's the guiding rule of looking taller?
Basically, you always need to have a streamlined outfit.
The idea behind it is that you always want the viewer’s eyes to go up on you, towards
your face because an upward motion makes you appear taller.
So with that being said, let's start with a few general tips.
Ideally, you go with darker looks or monochromatic looks from the outside in because it creates
the appearance of height.
When I say monochronic outfits, I mean monochromatically inspired because you don't just want to have
an all-black outfit or an all grey because it lacks contrast and it just looks like a
blob.
At the same time, wearing colors in the same spectrum from the outside in creates a slimmer
silhouette that implies height.
You have probably heard that black is supposedly a slimming color and therefore, it's quite
popular.
However, we believe that there are better colors out there such as dark brown or navy
or charcoal and to learn more about why black is the most overrated color in menswear today,
please check out this video here.
When it comes to patterns, if you want to look taller, stripes are your friend; specifically
vertical stripes, not horizontal ones.
Ideally, you want a slimmer stripe especially if you're a smaller build because a wider
stripe makes you look wider and it may seem disproportionate.
The same is true for shirts or socks; always keep in mind vertical stripes will look best
on you and make you look your tallest.
Sometimes, ties are striped diagonally, that works in your favor as well because it has
an uplifting element.
Now that we've got the basics covered, let's talk about more specific suggestions for different
garments.
Starting with the jacket, as I mentioned countless times before, fit is essential to look your
best and we have an entire guide on how a suit should fit.
For a shorter man, specifically, I suggest that you get things that are more fitted,
more trimly fitted because if things are baggy, they look like they're too big making you
look small.
Even though traditional rule suggests that the length of the jacket should match the
length from the pants hem to the bottom of the jacket, if you're a shorter man, it pays
to have a slightly shorter jacket rather than a longer jacket because it creates the visual
effect of height.
Likewise, you want slightly angled pockets in the front because they have that uplifting
moment making you look taller.
Ideally, you have no vents in the back because that jacket will hug you more snugly, however,
it's a very vintage look so in this day and age, I suggest you go with side vents, avoid
center vents.
Furthermore, you want to choose a suit jacket or sport coat with a higher buttoning point
slightly above your natural waist, that way, your upper torso will look a little shorter
and your legs longer thus making you look taller.
A jacket sleeve that is cut too full can make you look odd, therefore, pay attention to
have a relatively narrow bottom part of your sleeve but leave the top part of your sleeve
rather roomy because otherwise, it constricts your movement.
Generally speaking, if you wear a suit, you already have that monochromatically inspired
look of matching pants and jacket which is always favorable if you are short.
As I mentioned before, stripes whether they are pinstripes, chalk stripes, or rope stripes,
or maybe even finer stripes in a seersucker suit, they will all help to make you look
your tallest.
Why?
Simply because it has that vertical line that allows people to look all the way up on you
towards your face that's making them think you're really tall.
For example, look at Aaron Marino from alpha M, he is a shorter guy but at Menfluential
conference, he wore a striped navy jacket with a white chalk stripe matching pants which
was a suit and he combined it with a slightly lighter shade of a navy turtleneck sweater
thus making him look the tallest he can possibly be.
Now sometimes, you may want to wear a solid suit and that is okay, you could even have
a small pattern such as a barleycorn or maybe a small houndstooth but definitely stay clear
of any kind of windowpane because it makes you look wider and shorter and the same is
true for the most part for Glenn checks or plaids in general.
Next up, here are some tips for your pants and trouser styles.
First of all, let's look at the break.
A very minimal or no break at all creates a longer leg line that's helping you to look
taller.
On the flip side, if you have pants that are too long and your fabric puddles around your
shoe, people will look down on you that's making them think you're actually shorter
than you are.
On a similar note, make sure you wear socks that are very close in color to your pants
that's providing a minimum amount of contrast and therefore, creating a longer leg line.
You could even accentuate that by choosing shoes that have a very similar color to your
suit and therefore, looks like you have a very long singular leg line.
Solid socks or solid socks with clocks are your friend.
Alternatively, you can have shadow stripes that are very close to your pants, therefore,
creating a minimum amount of contrast all the while being interesting and helping you
to look tall.
If you want to learn more about how to combine dress shoes socks slacks pants and trousers
please check out this free guide here.
Moving up, let's take a look at the crotch.
You want a drop that is not too saggy.
Also, you want your pants to be rather higher up in your waist because it creates the illusion
of a longer leg line.
Even though they're a popular fashion at the moment, low-rise trousers should be avoided
for short guys at all costs because they make your torso look longer, your legs shorter
thus creating an awkward disproportionate look.
Medium or high rise pants are your friend and you can learn more about the details of
that in our video here.
If you have bigger thighs, pleats can be your friends.
Just make sure they're inward-facing pleats not outward-facing pleats. to learn more about
pleated pants please check out this video here.
Moving further from pants, let's talk about shirts and sweaters.
Just like with jackets, you want to have a high armhole so you have a greater range of
movement.
Your standard long-sleeved shirt should end exactly at the wrist no matter if you stand
straight or of you bend your elbow.
Generally, we recommend showing between a half and three-quarters of an inch of shirt
cuff that matches the back of your collar that's about one centimeter to one and a half
centimeters.
However, for shorter guys, you can even go a little less because otherwise, it may look
like your jacket is too short for you and it just looks odd.
To learn everything you need to know about sleeve length for your jacket for your shirt
and how it works together, please check out this video here.
If you're ever in a position where you roll up your shirt sleeves, make sure to just roll
them up towards 3/4 of your arm or like halfway underarm otherwise, it may look weird and
you may look shorter than you actually are.
If you wear short sleeve things like a polo shirt, make sure they end about two, maybe
three or four inches above your elbow otherwise, it looks odd, your shirt looks too long, therefore
making you look very small.
Last but not least, as a shorter guy, you always want to tuck in your shirt because
not tucking it in gives you the appearance of having this really awkwardly long torso.
When it comes to layering pieces such as sweaters, either opt for a v-neck if you wear ties or
a crew neck if you don't but the secret weapon for shorter men is the turtleneck sweater
because it accentuates your height on your face, makes people look at you, and create
a clean streamlined look.
No matter what sweater you choose, make sure it ends slightly below the pants waistband
so it's totally covered but your sweater should never be so long that it creates an awkwardly
long torso.
Just take a look at the mirror, if your sweater peeks out hugely underneath your buttoning
point, it's likely too long.
To learn more about turtleneck which are really great for shorter men they want to appear
taller please have a look at this guide.
If you're a friend of layers, I suggest you skip the waistcoat with a suit because it
makes you look wider.
Keep it to a two-piece suit, it's just a cleaner more streamlined silhouette.
The waistcoat or vest will just create a very busy middle section that doesn't help you
look your best.
In terms of keeping your pants up, I strongly suggest you skip belts because they divide
your torso and your lower body distinctly thus destroying the streamline.
Instead opt for side adjusters if you're a slimmer guy or even better, suspenders because
they will keep your pants at the same height all day long so you can make sure you have
that minimal break or no break that you want so you look your tallest.
When layering in general, always make sure that you have darker colors on the outside
and lighters on the inside.
Let's say navy suit with a white shirt is better than a white jacket with a denim shirt.
During cold months of the year, you definitely want to wear an overcoat or a top coat such
as a trench coat, just make sure it is rather short meaning it ends somewhere above the
knee, I suggest two inches or so above the knee.
It should under no circumstances be longer than your knee because otherwise, you look
more like Columbo which is rather short and wide and as a shorter guy, you want to make
your legs appear as long as possible.
Finally, if you can minimize the individual bulk of each garment, you should go for it.
That means go with a slimmer sweater if you can, maybe a thinner fabric rather than something
really thick on your overcoat and something that reduces bulk in your outfit.
Next, let's talk about footwear for men so they look taller.
I know it may seem obvious but wearing boots with a higher heel will definitely help you
to gain an extra inch or three centimeters.
As you may know, there are companies specializing in insoles giving you an extra two inches
or about five centimeters or even more.
Now, the problem is that once you get really high up, you have a hard time with staying
inside of your shoe hence a boot is a better option.
At the same time, I think if you wear shoes that make you look really tall and then you
have other shoes that make you look shorter, people will notice that change and see that
you're trying to compensate for your height which is never an ideal scenario.
Yes, you want to look your tallest but you always want to look the same height and you
don't want to be perceived as someone who's trying to fake it and then get taller the
next day.
As I briefly mentioned before, choose a shoe color that is similar to your socks and your
pants, therefore, giving you a longer leg line.
In the same vein, if you wear shorts in the summer or if you go with no-show socks, opt
for shoes are very close to your skin color thus giving you a longer leg line.
Also, pay attention to the silhouette of the shoe, a clean silhouette maybe with a classic
rounded toe or a soft chisel are much better than these thick rubber soled chunky square-toed
shoes that you see a lot of men out there wear.
When it comes to accessories it pays to rather have them up in your body.
Remember, you always want to draw the viewer's look to your eye.
For example, a stylish hat can instantly add a perceived 4 or 5 inches of height to you.
Alternatively, you can wear a tie, I would stay clear of bowties because they don't have
that vertical line but a horizontal line.
If you wear a jacket, definitely opt for a pocket square.
It's an easy way to round out that look and it makes you stand out from the crowd.
You can also go with let's say a lapel pin or maybe a boutonniere, just make sure it's
all harmonious and not over-the-top.
In general, I suggest two to three accessories are best for shorter men.
Accessories should always be proportional to your body size, this is specifically true
for neckties.
Most ties are too long and too wide for shorter guys so if you tie a regular tie knot, they
will just be way too long and accentuate your crotch and make your torso look longer which
is disadvantageous.
The only way to make long ties work is to tie a bigger tie knot but that makes your
head look smaller and you end up looking like a cartoon figure that can't be taken seriously,
therefore, it's essential that you get shorter ties that are made just for you that are also
slimmer and more proportional.
That way, you can tie the most ideal tie knots for you which are small ones such as the four
in hand or the Oriental and you can learn how to tie those in these videos here.
Because I hated it when neckties we're always the same length, I designed all of our ties
to be short regular and long so we also have knit ties that are on the shorter side so
they can work for you as well.
So if you're looking for shorter ties that make you look your tallest, please head over
to our shop here.
When it comes to wristwatches, the common trend right now is to have really big ones,
however, you, as a shorter guy should always opt for smaller watches because you likely
have a smaller wrist and having that huge watch will make you look smaller which is
not what you want to be.
To learn more about how to find small watches for small wrists please check out this guide
here.
Now that you know all the little tips and secrets on how to appear taller, let's talk
about vendors.
In the US there are very few brands who specialize in smaller and shorter men.
On the flip side, if you buy from a brand from Japan or Italy or France, men in general,
are shorter there.
Therefore, their lines are designed to fit you much better.
If you're shopping online, try to go with stores that actually provide you with measurements
and measure things that you have at home that already fit you or try to find someone with
a very lenient return policy.
Of course, traveling to Japan yourself is the ideal solution but that takes quite a
bit of money and time but it's likely well worth it.
Of course, the ultimate solution to looking your tallest is to go with a bespoke garment,
however, for most men, that is out of reach.
Fortunately, there are companies now that focus on made-to-measure especially online
made to measure garments and they can be a good option for you especially if they understand
how to tweak patterns so they work best for shorter guys.
That being said, not all tailors are created equal and just because someone tells you this
is a custom suit might not be the same thing as a custom suit from another tailor, so do
your homework, double-check everything, and you'll find all the knowledge on our website
to find a good tailor that will make you look your tallest.
On a final note, as with everything in life, adding confidence to the way you wear things
and the way you present yourself just makes you automatically walk taller and therefore,
giving you the extra height that you otherwise would not have.
So which tips we laid out today were you most surprised by?
Please share in the comments below!
in today's outfit I'm wearing an outfit that is typical of someone who wants to dress taller.
first of all you can see I have peak lapels that really draw the viewers attention up
to my face you can also see it's a very faint light stripe that's giving me the appearance
of looking taller my shirt is also striped I just made sure that it's not too close in
the same stripe distance as my suit otherwise it would look visually confusing this way
it just gives me more height I also opted for a pocket square in white which picks up
colors of black and red which you can also find in my suit as well as my socks in my
shoes as well as in my tie to create a minimum amount of contrast I opted for shadow striped
socks from Fort Belvedere in grey and red which pick up the color scheme of the pants
and my shoes are a dark brown with kind of a dark burgundy shoelace which gives me that
visually longer leg line I try to go with the minimum break because I have bigger thighs
I have pleats but they're inward-facing instead of a belt I went with suspenders because they
keep everything up and I can make sure that the pants are just same level all day last
but not the least look at my buttoning point it is rather high does accentuated my height
especially in combination with the angled pockets that just uplift everything in combination
with peak lapels now the only way I could look taller is by adding a hat