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so a couple weeks ago I officially announced that moving forward I will be riding for both s m bikes
and fit bike Co and with that I first of all want to say thank you to the enormous and overwhelming
amount of positive support that came from that but I also wanted to talk about how fit by Co
fits into all of this because I'll be riding an s m frame with a lot of s m parts and some
fit Parts in there but the way fit fits into this is that I'm excited to announce a new series that
I will be doing where I will be taking a brand new complete bike and upgrading it as someone
may actually do it in a practical way when they buy a complete bike so the first episode in this
series is me unboxing and building this bike as well as telling you a little bit about it so
first of all we got a bunch of Staples on this box that we need to get out and while I take
these out I want to tell you guys about something that I noticed on this box too in that it says the
tools that are required as well as the height that is recommended for this bike and I thought
that was a pretty cool touch that we see on here I don't see all I haven't seen all complete bike
boxes so that may be totally normal but either way I was stoked to see it on there this is the
fit Park medium MD this is the 20 inch and let's just step forward or cut to me having all these
staples out and getting the bike out of the box very simply the bike just slides out and
has all of its packages here there is a chain guard in the Box as well as the gyro cables and
another small box and that is everything that is in this box right now all that you really need
to do in this process is set aside some loose parts and take some of the packaging off of
here another thing I wanted to say while I'm doing this this stuff is thank you to everyone who used
the discount code to pick up something from SM or fit and use the link at the same time because that
helps me out you may be getting a discount too but it also helps me out at the same time front wheel
separated I'm going to set this aside oh there's actually already brake cables on here too and the
first step in this process that I'm going to do to make this easier on myself is installing the seat
and seat post so this is kind of a how to build a complete bike out of a box as well as introducing
my Series so the seat that comes on this is a fit seat that is a combo with the seat post
and I'm just going to slide it into there and we tighten that with a six millimeter Allen very very
and now I am able to get this thing on the bike stand to continue with the process all right we
got the bike on the stand shout out to Park Tool makes it so much easier to work on these
things but I think the first thing I'm going to do is get the handlebars onto here so we have a
couple more packaging things we've got to take care of here the packaging around the stem and
the head tube on the bike and speaking of head tube this has a 75.3 degree head tube angle on
it and a very short rear end we just keep talking about geometry here it has a 12.6 inch rear end
on it and a 20.5 inch top tube length as why it's medium because it's medium length pop tube
and we've got the integrated headset there's a mid bottom bracket a lot of the stuff you would
expect on there top load stem and the handlebars here have an 8.7 inch rise with 29 inch width
and of course I'm going to struggle because it wasn't a struggle would it be me the fork offset
is 25 millimeters and the sprocket speaking of 25 is 25 tooth okay handlebars and the brake lever
is already on there as well so one thing about this build that I have not yet talked about is
the fact that is not a full chromoly frame fork and handlebar and that is something that I have
no doubt been an advocate of talking about since I started talking about and recommending
bikes for people to buy and I wanted to be straightforward about all of this because it's
definitely something that I felt very strongly about this bike has a chromoly front triangle
and it doesn't say anything about the handlebars or the forks the cranks are chromoly speaking of
geometry these are 165 millimeter cranks and this is somewhat the purpose of doing this whole entire
series is to to ride this thing for real and see if and how it holds up as we upgrade it over time
so this is me telling you right now that I will be giving honest feelings and honest recommendations
on this after I've written it for an adequate period of time we've got a closer look here
and we can put the handlebars on top load stem the first step is just getting the bolts finger tight
and before we go super far with that you can see maybe you can see here these do come pre-greased
which is always a great thing to see and so to continue this whole full chromoly conversation
I wanted to make sure I brought this up and was fully transparent with all of it because I never
want anyone to feel like I'm you know going back on my morals on this concept or this topic or
breaking what I feel just because I'm being helped out by a company and that is why I'm holding back
full thoughts on this until after I give it an honest ride and try and I don't think that they
would have sent me this bike with the intent of doing this series if they didn't believe in it
either when you're doing this and you're getting closer to having them fully tightened there's a
pattern that you're going to want to follow as you tighten things you always want to make sure that
there is an even gap on the front and the back of the stem meaning that the Gap you see here
between the top cap of the stem the plate and the main part of the stem is exactly the same Gap as
what you see on the back side and another thing that you want to make sure that you pay attention
to with tightening your stem is that you have the knurling on your bars centered in the stem so you
can do that by going too far on one side seeing it stick out going back in going too far on the other
side and seeing it stick out and just trying to make sure that you get to the center you can also
look in the Gap and see where that knurling sits in your bars or in your stem and then from here
what you're going to do is you're going to start in one corner tighten down then you're going to
go to the opposite corner tighten down then you're going to go across on the same side tighten down
then you're going to go to the opposite corner again and tighten down and across
and you're going to repeat this until your bars are tight and there is an even Gap all the way
around right now there's actually not an even Gap I'm going to make sure I can turn it here
so you can see you can see there smaller gap on this side than on this side and the way that we
fix that is by loosening the side that is got a tube the Gap when we tighten up the side that
had too big of a gap and we keep going back and forth with this until there is an even Gap here
and once we get it snugged back up because that pattern really helps and matters the most when
we're doing our final tighten we have our Gap even the bars are centered in the stem and now
we do our same pattern to finalize the tightening of this corner to opposite corner crossed on the
same side back in the opposite corner of that I'm not going to finalize this yet because I don't
know that the bars are exactly where I would want them in this process too we can go ahead and grab
upper cables and it looks like they sent upper and lower because what we see here on our lower
is that it's this teal aqua whatever color that is and the cables that we have for the top are black
so if you wanted to swap them out you could easily another thing we need to pay attention
to is that there is a short and a long side on this so we want to make sure that our cable is
oriented in a way that puts the short side closer than the other one and now that I've swapped the
direction of this Cable in the brake lever you can see short side is on the bottom longer side
is on the top put the shorter side in our gyro plate on the inside closest to the brake lever
and then we put the longer side on the further away part of that so at this point I'm just going
to slot these cable ends into the gyro it's pretty self-explanatory how you do that and while we're
on the front end of this bike let's go ahead and grab our front wheel here and put the front wheel
on so yes this does have a 3 8 male axle but this is actually a sealed front hub which is
pretty awesome to see on a complete bike under the 500 price range a 2.4 tire and the PSI rating is
60 PSI now we'll take out this spacer here which goes into the forks and keeps them safe during
shipping an important thing to note here is that this front wheel does have the slot washer which
means that when it goes into the fork you want to make sure the slot of that goes into the slot on
the forks we take the tool here to make sure that our wheel is bottomed out in our dropouts meaning
that is all the way seated and then tighten that down all right so let's set that aside
nice and smooth spinning there so come back a little bit and we see our cranks are here with
little pedals on them because we have this other box that comes in the bike box open this up
see is that it comes with oh look at me not opening enough boxes to see that there is
actually a matching blue upper Cable in this box so that's the thing all of our reflectors
and here we have plastic pedals that come with these as well as these here we have
a cable tie some washers and the owner's manual as well as a build your fit guide this is actually
kind of cool so in this box if you were to need it there's a guide for putting your bike together as
well as a QR code that shows you how to actually build your bike and it gives you a link there as
well those are all the tools required in the order to do it in and one thing to always make note of
is that when you're tightening your pedals down if your bike is right side up they will always
tighten forward towards the front of your bike so once again these are 165 millimeter cranks
which is a change for me so that is something I'm kind of curious to check out and try out
and their chromoly with that mid model bottom bracket in there meaning is a sealed mid bottom
bracket okay I've got my pedal wrench and I actually have to correct myself I'll probably
have edited it out at this point but I've been saying throughout the video that these rims on
this bike are double walled it's the fit s1w Rim which is actually a single walled Rim both front
and rear so that is something we're gonna put to the test as well to see how this actually
does when I really ride it and see how long these rims hold up and this is going to be part of the
process of this series in just putting this bike to the test for real and seeing how it holds up so
all we've really needed so far to build this bike was a six millimeter Allen something to
cut the packaging with a 17 millimeter socket or wrench because there's no pegs right now in order
to tighten the front wheel and the rear wheel looks to be a 17 as well that pedal wrench and
then I use the five millimeter Allen on the brake lever to adjust where it actually sits
foreign [Music]
so here we have the complete fit Park medium bike and right now I feel is a perfect time to give my
first impressions of this bike as a whole but to do that I feel I also need to ask the question
what should be expected from a bike in the 430 dollar price range well we'll take a look at the
wheels single wall rims seem to be pretty normal at this price range you may find a bike here and
there that has a double walled rear Rim but for the most part single wall is normal when it comes
to the hubs sealed front and rear hubs definitely isn't super common at this price range you may
get one being sealed but not the other but to have both being sealed is a definite plus in this price
range cranks and bottom bracket pretty normal if you see a bike in this price range without a mid
bottom bracket I would definitely steer clear of that but three-piece chromoly cranks totally
normal here when it comes to the frame fork and handlebars not being chromoly like I talked about
you don't see a full chromoly bike less than around the mid 500 even upwards of 600 in some
companies lineups for wear full chromoly starts so that's not even close to being expected at this
430 dollar price range and I'm not gonna lie to you guys there are some things that I think about
whenever I think about riding a bike with these specs for an extended period of time but that's
kind of the whole point of this video series is to just do exactly that and see what happens I
think about single wall rims and whether or not they'll hold up to my riding and it's something
that we'll find out about but I think that it's a cool concept to take a brand new complete bike
and then upgrade it the same way someone who buys a bike like this or this bike specifically would
in their journey in BMX because when you look at a bike in this price range and the specs that are
on it the target audience for this bike is someone who's either just getting into BMX or maybe coming
back to it they're upgrading from a Walmart level bike not somebody who's been riding for 15 plus
years and needs like the best that there is that you can get so I'm excited to do this and I think
that when it comes to the specs on this bike it is definitely adequately specked and may even
be a little above some other bikes in this same price range in certain aspects another thing to
bring up here is that these blue gyro cables on here were actually Mistake by the factory because
Chris Muller wasn't able to be over in Taiwan for the process of these being built due to covid so
that is why the black gyro cables are included in the Box they were supposed to be black from
the factory but because they weren't you get an extra set of Gyro cables in the box if you get
specifically this model the fit Park medium in black and I think that's almost kind of a bonus
and it just goes to show the the level that fit in s m in the building are willing to go to to make
sure that stuff is right for you so I wanted to make sure that I hit on that and with all
of this being said the fit s m websites have all of the parts that you guys can pick from
for what I should upgrade next I'm gonna try to do this according to the comments it's going to
be a little difficult because there's going to be a lot but I think it'll be really fun to have
like an audience upgraded complete bike throughout this process and just see how things go so on that
note I'm going to hold back any kind of judgment or recommendation for a bike like this one until
after I've ridden it for an adequate period of time just like anything else that I've talked
about in videos but with that being said I know some people don't like to wait for that and I
know that some people may not feel they need to wait for that because they're looking for a bike
for their 12 year old kid or something like that so if you do intend on picking up a complete fit
like this one or anything from fit's website or anything from s M's website make sure you use the
links in the description and the code Brandt in all caps to save 10 percent it is amazing
that that opportunity is available because it also helps me while helping you and I love that aspect
of it so let's get into this series I'm going to be riding this bike tomorrow at raised and I'm
super excited for that thank you for watching subscribe so you make sure that you are tuned
in for the next episodes in this and others and hopefully that'll mean we'll see you tomorrow for
another video thank you for watching thank you fit and s m and we'll see you tomorrow goodbye