Schinkenstrasse
Bierkönig
Upper Bavaria!
Does that sound familiar?
No, I'm not in Germany.
I'm by the Mediterranean Sea, on the most popular holiday island for German tourists: Mallorca.
Before the pandemic, there was usually a lot going on here, around the so-called Ballermann.
As you can see, it's still very quiet here. Low season. Like the calm before the storm
of all the tourists. Tourism is starting again here. And some are happy about that, others
not that much. Why is Mallorca so popular? That's what I want to find out.
Mallorca in spring is mild, temperatures of 17 degrees Celsius. But unfortunately not
as sunny as I had hoped.
Time to explore Palma, the capital of Mallorca. My first tip for you is the cathedral!
Built in the 14th century, Palma Cathedral is one of the most important Gothic buildings
in all of Europe.
I am particularly impressed by the stained-glass windows.
Especially the magnificent rose window on the east facade.
This cathedral is huge!
Numerous artists have immortalized themselves here over the centuries.
The famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí redesigned the choir room at the beginning of the 20th century.
I can also recommend this somewhat strenuous climb to the terrace of the cathedral.
From up there, you'll have a great view of the whole bay of Palma.
Here you can also see how huge the round window looks up close.
And look there a cruise ship is back at sea.
Next stop is the old town of Palma.
On the square in front of the town hall, there's
a peculiar overgrown structure. The olive tree is said to be at least 500 years old:
but no one knows for sure.
There is Art Nouveau architecture everywhere in the old town. You can explore wonderfully
on foot. It is so pleasant here that I don't even realize I'm in a big city.
After all, 400,000 people live in Palma.
This place looks quite similar to the Plaza Mayor in Madrid, so this is typically Spanish.
My third tip for a visit to Palma is between the old town and the port.
This is the neighborhood of Santa Catalina, quite popular for a few years, and by the
way, fishermen used to live here in the past.
The district has developed into a trendy area in recent years. The mostly smaller two-storey
houses have been renovated. Here you'll find shops, restaurants and cafés.
It's a great atmosphere.
Now I want to go out into nature.
And there's a great way to do that. Sustainable, and with a nostalgia factor.
This is the train that's going to take me
straight to the other end of the island. As the name suggests, the Tren de Sóller takes you to Sóller.
This train connection has existed since 1912. It takes about an hour for the historic locomotive
to travel the 27 kilometers. There and back costs 32 euros. I find it's well worth the price.
The gentle rattling of the train is peaceful.
And the views are beautiful.
We head through the mountain range, Serra de Tramuntana, in the northwest of Mallorca,
with mountains up to 1500 meters. The train stops in the middle of the mountains to give
us the opportunity to enjoy this view.
Terminus: Sóller.
I now want to take a closer look at what I saw in the distance on the train journey:
the Tramuntana mountains.
The Serra de Tramuntana is a popular hiking area. You can spend days here. A little trip
should be enough for me: from Binibassi to Fornalutx.
The mix of unspoiled nature and
terraces made for growing oranges, almonds and olive trees makes the Tramuntana unique.
That is why it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition, this landscape has been
spared from mass tourism – so far.
This is definitely something different. Mallorca is not just beaches and palm trees. Mallorca is also:
mountains!
Thirty minutes later, I reach Fornalutx, a popular destination. About 600 residents ensure
their village is wonderfully preserved. They've even received awards in recognition of its beauty.
Nice little village. The hike was worth it.
Back in Palma. The environmental protection of Mallorca also has a lobby – the GOB, Grup
Balear d'Ornitologia is a nature conservation group that takes a critical look at the consequences
of tourism. I meet Margalida Ramis in this park in Palma. She is the spokesperson for the GOB.
You criticize the effects of mass tourism. So, as a tourist, am I part of the problem?
No, it's not an individual problem. It's a political problem and one that has to do with
the local economic model. Many years ago, it was decided that Mallorca would be a place
for tourism, and we became overly dependent on a single sector of the economy.
Where exactly is the problem? There are many people in Europe and around the world who
think Mallorca is a beautiful island and would like to visit. The island is quite big.
There's enough space for everyone, right?
No, the problem is that tourism has outgrown the island.
You could say that Mallorca is suffering from touristic obesity, especially
in the summer months. This leads to an imbalance, which cannot be sustained socially or environmentally.
So you want Mallorca to slim down a bit, go on a diet?
When it comes to tourism? Yes!
Thank you.
That brings me back to where I started, to the so-called Ballermann. Beach areas are
called Balnearios in Spanish. But with tourists flocking from Germany, this became the Ballermann.
As you can see, I am here and those red dots are Balnearios, so seaside resort services.
And the translation in German is actually Ballermann. I can't believe it.
This stretch of beach is a red rag for all Mallorcans who have had enough of mass tourism:
the numerous bars and clubs on El Arenal beach. In the high season, it s just one boozy, party mile.
Although most of the big clubs like Megapark were closed during the pandemic, they want
to reopen this year, especially for German party tourists.
The Münchner Kindl restaurant is also in German hands.
Since 1988, Gerlinde Weininger has seen many tourists come and go.
You are also part of the Ballermann. That's a thorn in the side of the regional government,
they don't like it that much. They would rather have more quality and less quantity.
Do you sometimes have the feeling that you are not really wanted here?
I think it's a matter of perspective, because the Ballermann can also be of high quality.
Maybe it applies to the people who are completely out of control and misbehaving.
Those people might not be wanted here.
But to what extent can you understand that you might be part of the problem?
I mean, you serve alcohol, there are live acts, lots of music, people dance. Can you control that?
They're looking at it the wrong way. Solely selling cultural holidays is wishful thinking.
Mallorca is big enough for everyone.
The yoga tourists can stay in a Finca, the cyclists
can come in winter, but there has to be space for us too. Because even a millionaire might
want to go out for one, two or more beers. It's just a part of being European, or being
a westerner. It's part of having a good quality of life. But you don't have to overdo it.
Thanks for the interview, and all the best.
Thanks.
At the end of my trip, I return to Santa Catalina, the trendy district of Palma.
Although there's a lot going on here in the evenings, there's still an easy-going, relaxed vibe.
How has tourism changed on Mallorca after the pandemic? Is it gonna be class instead
of mass? So, luxury trips or party tourists? In any case, most of the people on Mallorca
will be very happy that tourism, that is so important for this island, picks up again at all.
And I don't think this was my last time here. Adios!