I've gotten a lot of questions in the past of how I would print PETG or pet G
filament on my Ender three. Well I've got a couple filaments to try. I got atomic
and I got Prusament. We'll try these out and I'll show you my settings on
today's Filament Friday.
This week's Filament Friday is brought to you by these patreon supporters. When
you print with petg or pet g however you want to pronounce it, you have to run
a higher temp. Now right on the spool here the atomic says 240 to 265. On the
box for the Prusament it says 240 to 260 and then the spool it says 250 plus
or minus 10. It's the same thing. So 240 C is like a minimum for this stuff and
that's pretty typical of the PETG or pet G. So I'm saying you're pushing it a
little bit to print it on an Ender three with the standard PTFE tubing. The
problem with the PTFE tubing is it's a variability. The stuff that comes with
Creality, some of its really good and some of it about 230 to 240C starts to
break down you'll see it crystallize. You'll see it turn black. Believe me I
got a ton of experience with this because I got machines back here running
24/7 and I've switched almost all of them to the Capricorn tubing which is a
higher temperature PTFE. You're not going to get all the way up to the 300 degrees
they say in their specs but you'll easily get to 260, 265 comfortably and
not see real breakdown. And so I'm still gonna run this with the standard stuff
because I'm testing this machine how far it will go, but if you are concerned or
you see damage at the end. You'll see it down at the nozzle. Then you might want
to consider switching to the Capricorn tubing. I'll put a link to this in the
description below. I've showed this in other videos. I really recommend it
mainly for the temperature. So anyway let's run these and see how they print.
So the first one we're going to use is the Atomic filaments 1.75 carbon fiber
black PETG or pet G. 240 to 265 degrees C and the other is the Prusament by
Josef Prusa. It's a PETG neon green. This even has the QR
code you can scan it and get more information.
250 degrees c plus or minus 10 c. So let's start out with the benchy. This is
a print that everyone understands and most people have printed it on there 3D
printer. So we'll see how it turns out. I'm gonna use Cura 4.0 and I'm gonna
use my magic 0.2 profile. It's the same one I used in previous videos with PLA.
It's got a 0.2 layer height. Three walls or one point two millimeter thickness.
I'm doing a 25% infill and the only thing I changed for PETG is the
temperature. I'm gonna use 240 degrees to print. Normally I'm at 205 to 215 for PLA
Bed temperature is the same. I'm using 60 degrees. Same speed as I showed in a
previous video, 50 millimeters per second. So we'll slice it and it'll give us an
estimated time of an hour and 35 minutes. Realistically it's gonna take about two
hours on the Ender three. You can see the speed changes in the different colors.
But now we're ready to print it. Let's see how it turns out.
So here's where it was with the PLA in a previous video. I'm not saying these are
perfect prints but this is what I tested and here it is with the atomic PETG.
Looks pretty decent. Not a perfect print by any means but
certainly really really good and here it is with the Prusament and this is
really a glisteny clear filament. I love the way this looks. But it printed
beautifully with that. So next let's try the Marvin. Let's try a miniature print. I
did this in a previous video as well and I'm going to use the same settings. I'm
gonna use the magic 0.2. The layer height 0.2. Same outer layers of three. Same
infill 25%. Same temperature bump of 240 degrees. Now it's all I'm changing for
the miniature, I'm not even changing the speed because the profile automatically
adjust like I showed in a previous video. We'll slice this guy. It's a real quick
print and we'll see how this turns out. Here it is with the atomic filament. Not
bad. Now I've noticed PETG always is a little bit rougher for me than PLA but
this is not a bad print. The neon green is hard to get a picture
of. It this is actually a beautiful filament. It really glows. And it's got a
really smooth finish. So of the two this one prints smoother. Now let's print this
vase model. I downloaded it from Thingiverse and you notice it's solid. I
want to print this as a vase. I'll show you how to do that in a second. We're
only gonna change the temperature to 240 degrees C. If you come down here to
special modes I'm gonna use spiralize mode which is vase mode in Cura. If you
don't see it, click on the gear type in spiral and these two options will come
up. Check them both so it'll be added to your profile. Now to use it click the top
one that spiralizes a print. The bottom one smooths out the z seam when
you slice it. It's a much quicker print because this is one continuous stream of
plastic if you're not familiar with vase mode. So let me show you in preview. If I
slide down and look at this thing it's one continuous wall of plastic. It's
basically the nozzle just going all the way around the outside. In fact I can
show you that in the simulation. Here it is. You can see the nozzle just going
round and round and round. It's a great way to test filament and it produces
some really cool prints. Now let's see how the filament turned out. Here it
is in Atomic PETG and I'll tell you what, the camera does not capture it. This
thing just glistens. It's really a beautiful print. The neon green is
awesome. This would look fantastic with LEDs inside making this thing glow. I
love the way these turned out. So there you go.
That's how I print PETG or PET G on my Ender three. It's my same profile that
I used for PLA. I just bumped the temperature to 240-245 range and I
usually am pretty good. Once in a while I'll get a brand where I have to bump it
up higher. I did get some inland PETG and that stuff,
I had to run it almost to 260 to get it to flow properly and still it
didn't flow the best. So that's one filament I really can't recommend but
these two print really nice. I think these prints came out great. So that's