Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, we'll discuss why we believe
that no menswear articles in the decades following the 1960s have become truly classic.
[The Gentleman's Gazette theme song plays]
As we've discussed here on this channel before, the classic menswear we favor here at the
Gentleman's
Gazette is inspired by fashion from the 1920s into the 1960s. Obviously, there were a lot of
well-dressed gentlemen in subsequent decades, but they either fell into the classic category or
intentionally dressed outside of it. Fashion style consists of what you wear and how you
wear it.
When it comes to individual articles of clothing, no menswear has actually become a true classic
post the late 60s. Now, we know that's a big claim, so let's investigate. Before we get
started, we
should get some ground rules for this discussion. And when we say classic, we don't always mean
iconic or even necessarily good-looking. We're referring to the classic style. Now, in 1970s,
jumpsuit is certainly iconic. But, that doesn't make it a classic style. And Sammy Davis Jr.,
who is a gentleman of classic style, certainly looked good in a jumpsuit. Keep in mind that
does not make
it classic. And what do we mean by "classic"? Well, let's take a look at the definition.
"A timeless article of menswear; just as wearable now as it was in the past. It can be incorporated
into a gentleman's individual style, but it is still a part of the overall classic style."
And now onto our argument. First, let's consider some major fashion innovations of the late 20th
century. Now, we'll try to prove that none of them can fulfill our definition of a true
classic.
Then, we'll conclude with why mid-60s and earlier menswear tend to be so classic.
Please keep in mind we're not saying that classic style is inherently better than all
other styles,
and we are not saying that all non-classic clothes are ugly. We're just here to find
out if any menswear
from the late 60s onward can classify as classic. And so, without further ado, let's get started.
We'll begin with the most fundamental menswear item: the suit. Now, if asked a comment about many
big changes
in menswear in the 1960s, most people would refer to the different changes that happened
to the suit.
From the psychedelic peacock revolution to the jarring flash of the disco era.
Even to the totally tubular trends of the 80s,
which our viewers may recognize from watching
Miami Vice or playing Grand Theft Auto: Vice City. Now, suit colors, styles, and fabrics
have certainly
gone through a big evolution in this latter part of the 20th century. For more on the
history of
the general suit, check out our video here. But, have any of those changes produce a
new classic?
Now, in our opinion, definitely not. First of all, some of these iconic looks from these
eras
are just too dated to be included in this classic look. Now, gentlemen might be able
to pull off
extremely flared lapels or a fringe leather jacket. But, those will be more statement
pieces,
not something that's a true classic. Now, of course, one could argue that broader suit
trends from these
eras could also qualify them to be a new classic. Now, for instance, the use of bold colors
or unique
fabrics have become more prevalent since the 60s. Interesting colors have always been a part
of classic menswear. We have over 30 videos on how to wear and combine color and pattern
playlists.
We show you a lot of different options and how to wear classic menswear. The key thing
to remember
is that the amount of color and the type of color you wear should be suitable to the occasion.
Jewel-toned dinner jackets can work on certain occasions, but not others. Fortunately, you
always
have us here at the Gentleman's Gazette to help you navigate those situations. As for
fabrics, it is
true that some of the functionality of fabrics has shifted. For instance, sporting fabrics
like tweed,
merino, and corduroy were usually exclusively only for outdoor activities like hunting.
But, now, your
tweeds will look just as good indoors or at an office party as they would outdoors while
you're
out duck hunting. We cover more about this in our video here. And be sure to check out
our video
on camo and classic menswear. When it comes to colors or fabrics, the form and function
may change
throughout the years, but the classic principles will remain the same. Fundamentally, the same
can be
said for most evolutions of the overall style of suits. Now, for instance, lapel width,
trouser length,
cuts, and similar detailing. While trends in detailing
come and go, the timelessness of a classic suit
still depends on certain tents of information that we cover in our videos on this channel.
So, even though pinstripes might have been revived in the 90s, they were already a well-established
part of menswear. While a young Raphael might have looked amazing in his white suit, he
should have
saved that look for a gala or a regatta. Now, let's look at new applications for old articles.
The second half of the 20th century presents a lot of examples of menswear being revived
and repurposed.
For instance, did you know that jean fabric was actually around when William Shakespeare
was alive? The modern jeans were created in the 19th century, but the fabric itself has actually
been around since the late 16th century. For most of its history, jeans have been used as utilitarian
garments; something that's comfortable and can be worn in dirty conditions. After World
War II, jeans
became increasingly popular as a youth emblem, and they eventually became staples of everyday
wear. Around the 1970s, the jeans and blazer combination caught on. This was seen by movie stars,
even college professors. Even Virgin Air mogul Richard Branson. This style has become popular
with tech magnates and others the world over. And jeans aren't the only modern menswear
article with an interesting past. And we may associate Chelsea boots with the British invasion of
the 60s,
but they're actually quite popular when Queen Victoria reigned. And most modern sunglasses
have their origin coming from the cockpit of a plane or a race car. Did you know that the
first aviators
were created in 1935 for the United States Air Corps? Or that the highly modern Persol
714 was
actually a number of years old before they were popularized by Steve McQueen on the set of
The Thomas Crown Affair? Gentleman's wristwatches were first introduced in the 19th century.
While plenty
of newer models have been released, many are based off of styles that came out in the early
and
mid-20th century. Watch this video to see more about men's jewelry items that didn't
become quite as
popular as the wristwatch. In the world of early sporting, chukka boots got their start
on the polo
field. And the polo shirt underwent many evolutions on the tennis court long before it was associated
with keg parties. And while boating shoes and driving moccasins are now worn as casual
footwear, until the second half of the 20th century, they were rarely seen outside of a speedboat
or an automobile. Coats and jackets have also undergone a major shift in their use. The
iconic Moncler jacket, before was a must-have winter accessory, was actually used by professional skiers
and professional mountaineers. And the Harrington jacket may have received its name in 1964
from a
Ryan O'Neill character. But, it was first designed in the late 1930s as we discussed
here. Motorcycle
jackets were worn in the early 20th century to prevent road rash, but are now commonly
seen on men
who have never even been on a Harley Davidson. And historic military jackets are often also popular
off the battlefield. Bomber jackets and the M-65 field jacket have obvious military connections,
but did you know the duffel coat got its start in the armies of 19th century Europe? It was
even standard issue for the British navy in the 1890s. Now, many cotton garments, like
twill chinos,
were designed for military applications because they were cool and durable. Khaki, as it is often
described in North America, was first introduced by the British colonial armies in the 1800s.
Returning
to the world of sports, we'll see that most modern athletic wear is actually much older
than you
might think. Some of the first hoodies were created by Champion in the 1930s. And sneakers
or trainers
have been gracing croquet, basketball, and tennis courts since the second half of the
19th century.
Now, while exercise suits, like tracksuits and shell suits, have been keeping their wearers
cool for decades. Now. before the rise of 80s hip-hop artists, the Sopranos gangsters, or the rise of
athleisure. So, can these innovations be considered post-60s classics? We would argue that they can't.
And while it's true that these fabrics and clothes have all been worn in ways that they
weren't traditionally intended to be worn, they all existed before the 1960s and were regularly
utilized.
The range of those conditions have simply expanded. For instance, we've made several
videos on the evolving
role of denim in classic menswear. Now, let's take a look at the ascendancy of casual clothing.
So far, we've only been obliquely referencing the most significant trends in menswear in
the most recent decades.
Since the 1970s, the suit and tie ensemble has been winning outside of the business world.
And nowadays, many offices no longer require ties. It feels like traditional dress shirts
and ties
have been replaced by luxury $200 t-shirts. As we've noted, most of these casual classics
have existed
as niche garments before they became a part of everyday wear. But, could one argue that
wearing
these old clothes in new ways does constitute in itself sort of a new classic? Well, we
say, no.
As we mentioned before, the moment that an article of clothing is no longer recognizable
as timeless,
it ceases to be a part of classic style. And this includes altering its function like wearing
an undershirt as though it were a dress shirt. Now, just like we mentioned earlier, for certain
garments to still be a part of classic style, they need to be worn in the right circumstances.
So, gentlemen
can pull off sneakers, but only in the right circumstances as we discussed in this video here.
And there's even a time and place to wear a suit jacket without a tie. But, unless one
adheres to
classic style rules, the style itself cannot be considered classic. Now, what makes a classic?
And we
hope that at this point, we've clearly explained to you that no menswear post-1960s is a part of
classic style. Now, most classic menswear styles have their origins long before the
1960s. Even if those articles are used in new or in different ways, they still have to adhere to certain
classic style rules to be considered a true classic. The same logic also applies to broader trends
like cuts, patterns, colors, and textures. Unless they can be integrated into the classic
style, they are not true classics. This begs the question: why can't any menswear from the
1970s, for example,
fill these criteria? We think it's partly because most menswear after the 1960s departed
too greatly
from classic style rules. Think the wild prints of the 70s or the baggy cuts of the 80s and 90s.
And later, from the 90s on, it was inundated by the conventions of things like fast fashion, where
they focus more on quantity over quality. Classic versatility was set aside in favor
of flash trends
and self-centered fashion. But, for gentlemen who prefer the classic style, its main point
of appeal
is the fact that it's timeless, versatile, and always easy to wear. Classic clothing
articles and styling have literally stood the test of time. They remain elegant and appealing
despite the passing of decades. The style is broad enough for individual expression. And the
style also
provides guard rails to help gentlemen look their best. And the classic style has been
developed by generations of stylish gentlemen that have developed rules and conventions that help them
look their best. Now, here's a closing thought. Now, maybe there haven't been any new
innovative classics since the 1960s because we're still trying to find new and innovative
ways to
wear what we already have. Today, I'm wearing a navy blue cable knit sweater from, Ralph Lauren
and a white and brown striped dress shirt along with green slacks, brown dress shoes,
and, of course, my Fort Belvedere socks. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks
like these.
[The Gentleman's Gazette theme song plays]