Hi, I'm Mike from Tormach and today I'm going over a quick setup...
...using the six-inch tilting table with a...
...two jaw chuck. it's just going to be a quick setup of...
...this aluminum block.
Now, I've prepped the piece we're going to setup. I've milled the ends square...
...to the sides.
What we're going to do is put a pair of parallels against the face of the chuck.
Because if you look, these hard jaws that are on the chuck...
...they stick out beyond the two jaws.
So if I just tried to clamp on my piece...
...it would clamp on those hard jaws. So if I space it out with these parallels it would square us up to the...
...face of the chuck. And then I'll be clamping with the jaws.
So I'm going to hold it against the parallels, and then I'm going to lightly tighten the chuck.
Then what I'm gonna do is take and tap...
...the head with a hammer to center it roughly. Depending on your work-piece....
it may not be that important for you to center it, you might be able to scale it in...
...from the side of the jaw.
But I'm just going to show you how I would center it if I wanted it...
...centered pretty close.
I've centered the axes...
...machine to the center of the chuck. I did that already.
I just swept the outside of the chuck. I knew t he chuck was running good on the outside...
...so that's what I'm going to call 0 on this.
I'm just going to roughly 0 the A axis...
...so it's partially square, just so I've got something to start with.
And then I'll fine tune it after I get...
...the part.
It's close enough for what I'm doing. Now go back to the Y 0 on the readout.
Zero my indicator.
The first try you don't have to be that close because you don't know how far you have to tap it over.
But I got the readout on the machine 0...
...the indicator 0.
Now if I check the other side of the part to see if I have to tap it over.
We'll see how far it is.
176 thousands off.
Dial it over to 88 thousands.
Zero the indicator on the backside, it's shifted towards you back.
And then if I come and check it on the frontside...
...it'll be 176 thousands.
I had to move my indicator, now if I move it...
...to the 70....
Now I can just tap my part over.
Hold it up against the parallels.
That's pretty close.
I got the DRO reading 0, and then the indicator reading 0 in the front and the back.
Now I'll tighten the chuck.
Zero the A axis now.
That's pretty good. And then 0 the A axis...
...on the DRO. If I was doing something...
...really fussy I'd index at 180 degrees and see how well centered it was.
These 2-Jaw Chucks are...
..on a scroll plate, so the jaws are going to come together on the scroll plate.
so if you find that your piece has shifted the only way to center it...
...is to add some shims stock to the vice jaw to get it centered.
It just depends on how fussy your workpiece is that you are doing.
If you're just machining some artwork on a piece of plywood
I wouldn't even bother using an indicator.
Just throw it in and let the chips fly.
Anything else you want to see? Is that it? It's the quick and easy way. Is there a long way?
Yeah but a lot of it ends up being repetitious to what we showed...
...on the 4 Jaw and 3 Jaw setup. As far as indicating the whole...
...head and all that stuff itself those other videos showed so this is just...
...dialing in a workpiece on the 2 jaw chuck.
cool thank you
One last thing after you have everything dialed in, and you're happy with it.
Don't forget to remove your parallels, because they won't be tight,
and they'll fall out just as they're indexing and bind up
and everything will be thrown off so that's the last little tip.