This is real-world problems man.
You got a heavy clutch.
What's up guys, today we heading back to the Detail Garage with this awesome Mazda Miata.
Okay, I'm just playing, this isn't a Mazda Miata.
It is hard to tell from the inside because it is like a cocoon but this is actually a
Dodge Viper.
It is all black and an ACR which stands for American Club Racer.
We're going to be showing you guys how to properly wash your car without installing
swirls or scratches because at one point in its life it was a Concours D' Elegance winner.
So we are going to give it the proper treatment to prevent paint harm.
We're also going to get in depth by checking and inspecting the paint because this car
is from Oregon where there is rain, fallout and it was outside.
So we're taking the time to clean it up and restore it to its former glory.
It's also just a fun car to have around.
I will admit I don't know a lot about the car but it is still a dream car to many.
As a kid in the mid-nineties you didn't have posters of Countach's or Bugatti's you had
Vipers.
This is a toy car that a lot of us kids had and now that I'm older I have the opportunity
to drive and detail.
So guys, we've just brought the Viper ACR into the Detail Garage and as mentioned we
are going to be starting with the full foaming process.
With any detail we start with the dirtiest area and that is the wheels.
Coming down here, you can see it has these 18 BBS alloy wheels and they are covered in
brake dust.
So we are going to gently remove that because we don't want to scratch the surface but we
still need to get all of this crap off.
We have the Wheel Gerbils, three different sizes and they are all made of wool making
them super soft to insure that the surface isn't harmed.
It collects foam to lubricate the brush while adding cleaning power to the job.
To begin the wheel detailing process we'll rinse off the heavier loose brake dust.
That brown runoff is just all kinds of grime.
There are still contaminants that have embedded the surface.
Brake dust is highly corrosive and it can embed the finish and if it is left to sit
it will deteriorate the clear coat and material of the wheel.
We have DeCon to cut through the brake dust and it attaches to iron.
It will also add lubrication so we aren't grinding debris into the wheel.
On the rotor is has attracted to the iron and it has changed from clear to purple.
That is the chemical reaction and it is emulsifying the grime so that we can clean it away safely.
So now that DeCon has had time to emulsify the brake dust we can start detailing the wheel.
Three Wheel Gerbils starting with the largest one to cover the most surface area.
To add cleaning power and additional lubrication I've added some Diablo Wheel Gel to the bucket.
Starting at the highest point, working all the way to the back of the wheel.
Getting in between the spokes to take down as much grime as possible.
Now the majority of the wheel is clean using the larger brush so now we are going to move
to the medium brush for the more intricate areas like the crevices of the spokes and
behind the caliper.
In the same manner, working from top to bottom getting the hard to reach areas so that the
whole wheel is detailed and clean.
Finally we have found ourselves at the smallest brush to get the remaining areas that we couldn't
fit a larger brush into.
Narrow crevices of the spoke as you can see there are some spots that were missed where
it is harder to fit a large brush.
Using a smaller brush we can gently work out all the filth for a factory shine and all
the brake dust is removed before it can corrode the surface.
The wheel and spokes are detailed we'll hit the face of the wheel using the Soft Green
Flagged Tipped Brush.
Running it around the rim which doesn't need a lot of attention, so just quickly pass over
the wheel and catch any remaining road grime.
Our last step of wheel detailing we are cleaning away the road grime and previous dressings
from the tire.
Using a firmer brush which has these plastic nylon bristles to scrub away the built up
grime which will make it easier for us to apply a new dressing and to reveal a fresh tire.
We are all done detailing the wheels on this Viper and now we are going to move on to the body.
Like we do with all the vehicles we bring in, we are using the two bucket method working
from top to bottom.
The reason for that, is the top and flat panels have heavier more abrasive particles of dirt
so starting there will prevent it from coming into contact with areas you have already detailed.
You may be asking yourself what is different about this vehicle compared to any other detail
we do and that is the use of Black Light Auto Wash.
This is going to create tons of thick suds that prevent scratches and swirls as we are washing.
We are also going to be using our Big Mouth Foam Cannon which aerates thick suds that
everyone loves which is adding lubrication so we don't harm the vehicle.
We'll begin by setting up our buckets.
This is the Chenille Wash Mitt, just put it aside for now.
This is the Big Mouth Foam Cannon which I have already filled with water.
Lets place a Dirt Trap in each bucket to filter out the particles of dirt and road grime to
trap it underneath the platform so that we don't bring it back to the car.
In turn this will keep the car cleaner while we are washing.
I'll add about an ounce to the wash bucket and we will also add the same amount to the
foam cannon.
The large opening to the Big Mouth helps prevent any spills or messes as you're detailing and
I'll reattach the top.
Gently mix it back and forth so instead of shaking it violently creating the foam inside
of the bottle.
Mix it back and forth to bring the whole solution together and it can aerate nicely to produce foam.
So I've just finished foaming the Viper and now using the wash mitt I'll dunk it in the
wash bucket.
Grabbing suds and lubrication.
Now just like we did when we were rinsing and foaming, we're going to start at the highest
point.
Working in straight lines we'll gently wipe away anything that is on the surface.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, black shows all imperfections so we don't
want to add any new ones.
We're taking our time to gently wipe away any abrasive particles of dirt, bird droppings
and fallout for the highest possible shine.
You can see that I have collected some of the dirt and debris that was on the car and
that is why we have a second bucket.
Pushing it all the way against the Dirt Trap and this is forcing the grime underneath the
plate of the cones and it is releasing the filth from the dreads of the wash mitt.
Just like a fish trap, it keeps it inside to keep it away from the car.
To further reduce the dirt in the bucket, I'll take it outside and wring it out on the ground.
*burp* You want to help?
Ladies and gentlemen it is Alex!
Check that out guys.
We were able to use the Master Blaster to knock out all the surface water.
This is great for a touch-free wash which insures that the surface isn't scratched while
drying.
This black Viper shows any kind of imperfection so we are being very delicate with how we
treat it which is why we chose to go with a touch-free drying process.
As you can see it did a great job, we didn't need to use towels and it removed the water
from the jambs and hard to reach areas.
This is preventing water from running off as we drive away and it looks great.
So if you guys want to learn more about these products head over to our website chemicalguys.com.
I know you like this car, so give it a thumbs up and we'll see you next time right here
in the Detail Garage.