Are you scrolling through YouTube right now, trying to find the perfect handmade gift idea for a friend?
Well, scroll no more. I've got you.
I'm going to show you how to make this adorable, reversible apron.
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Hey, everybody.Tricia here with Sewing Parts Online.
So what are we making today?
It's the crisscross apron pattern by Mary Mulari.
All you need is two- 1-yard cuts of fabric
and coordinating thread.
If you want to reinforce the pockets, you can grab some light-weight fusible interfacing.
You'll also need an iron and a pressing mat (or ironing board).
And a marking pen.
Before we get started, if you could please take a moment to hit that Like button, I would greatly appreciate it.
Alright, cut out your pattern pieces and we'll get started.
The pattern consists of 3 parts-
the bands,
and then you've got the pockets,
and the body.
This pattern has great options for adjustments.
You can make it a small or medium
or a large or extra-large.
Also, normally you'd place the fold of the fabric right on the edge; however,
you can make adjustments there too if needed.
For a wider apron,
just bring it in a little bit.
For a narrower apron,
pull the pattern past the fabric fold.
First things first, let's cut out our fabric.
If you have a nice, sharp rotary blade,
then you can cut all 4 layers of fabric together.
Or you can just do it twice; whichever works for you.
Before we set the body pieces aside, we want to mark the body pieces
and finish the bottom edges.
For the pocket placement, I just poked several holes
where the pattern indicated
and then used my pen to make the dots.
And then I just connected the dots.
I normally use an air erasable marker. That's my fav, but
in this case, a water-soluble marking pen worked really well.
Because the air erasable may disappear faster than we want.
Now we just need to finish the bottoms.
We need to do this on both apron pieces.
On my first one, I did a zig zag stitch. On this one, I am going to use my serger.
(serging)
Perfect.
If you have any questions throughout this process, please don't hesitate to ask.
Just type your question in the Comment Section below and I will answer just as soon as I can.
Next, let's prep our pockets.
The pattern says that you can use a light-weight interfacing if you choose to reinforce the pockets.
Just know that it's not mandatory.
So if you're bummed that you don't have any, don't worry,
you still can make this project.
If you do plan on excessively using the pockets,
I would take the extra step to reinforce them.
On the fusible interfacing, there's glue on one side.
You can feel it
where it has the little nubs.
So you want that
and the wrong side of your pocket together.
And now press.
I forgot to grab my pressing cloth, so I'm just going to use some scrap fabric.
Finish the top edges of the pockets.
Again, you can use your sewing machine or the serger.
Next, turn the edges of the pockets 1/4" and press.
Again, you don't need anything here other than an iron and a pressing mat
but there are a couple of things that will make your life easier if you choose to use them.
Starch, although not mandatory,
honestly, I think it's a must.
It really does help everything lay nicely.
Also, I found that the seam align glue was super handy.
Since your fingers are getting really close to the iron and you're folding a narrow edge,
the thermal thimbles can save you from getting burned.
And the hem gauge, well, I just like it.
After the edges are folded the 1/4",
turn the top under 1" or so.
Press and sew across the hem edge.
Now those markings that we previously made come into play here.
We're going to position our pocket and
pin it in place.
And then we're going to sew
an 1/8" from the edge of the pocket,
excluding the top.
We don't want to sew that down.
There's one side. Now we just need to do the exact same thing for the other.
For the next step, we're going to lay one of the body pieces right side up.
Grab two of the crossbody bands
With right sides together, sew 1/4" and then press the seams open.
Repeat this on the other one as well.
You should now have two pieces.
Lay them right sides together.
We're going to sew the edges together, leaving the band ends and the bottom edges open.
Think of it this way.
When you're looking at it, there are essentially 3 U's.
Sew those.
Then there are two sides.
Sew those as well.
So what's left open is going to be everything on the top and the bottom.
I hope that helps.
If you have a pair of pinking shears, go ahead and pink all around the edges.
This falls in the same category as prepping the pockets.
It takes a little bit of time.
Otherwise, just trim them down a little bit.
And then press the edges flat.
Now comes the fun part.
We get to turn it right side out.
Kind of scooch your fingers up into the bands and
pull them out.
Let's press those edges.
Nice and crisp.
I find that the thermal thimbles are really helpful
with rolling the fabric.
Take your time and it will look really nice.
On the two center bands,
turn them in 1/4"
and press.
Now crisscross the bands and
insert the side bands into the center bands
approximately 1/2" or so.
At this point, I suggest trying it on.
If you need to shorten it a little bit, you can simply insert more than 1/2".
Pin it in place.
When you have the right fit, connect the bands by topstitching.
Just about done. Now we just need to scooch to the bottom of the apron.
Turn under 1/2" or so and press.
Pin that.
This is another place where you can make an adjustment.
If you're shorter and would like to
shorten the apron,
you can do more than 1/2".
All we have to do is topstitch 1/4"
around the sides,
bands, and the front.
Pair it with some kitchen utensils or bowls and have a great birthday or shower gift.
Or, my personal favorite, pair it with some fun sewing notions and your sewing friends would love you.
I know I would.
As promised, here's a link for that seam align glue that I mentioned earlier.
Make sure to check that out.
All done! Seriously, how cute is this?!
Thank you so much for joining me. I really appreciate it.
I hope that you will again.
Until next time, Happy Sewing, everybody.