Hey this is Alex from Bevelish Creations. I partnered up with ToolsToday to bring
you this video on building a monitor stand for my work-from-home office
And, like all of my projects, I’ll start out with the Amana Prestige General Purpose blade in my
table saw to start cutting down all of the lumber needed for this project to more manageable sizes,
just so that I can have an easier time getting them all flattened on the jointer and then brought
down to their final thicknesses on the planer. But before going straight to the CNC I’m going
to rip these into smaller strips, so that I could make a large panel with alternating
light and dark pieces, which I hope would give the monitor stand a more interesting look.
After the glue has dried it's time to cut the pieces that will make up the base of
the monitor stand, and to do this I’m using the Amana Quadrant Spectra-coated spiral bit
to give me that nice, clean cut while the special coating keeps the bit cool and sharp.
And since the base is 9 inches deep I’ve got quite a few parts to cut.
With all of the parts cut it's time for the glue-up. But,
be patient with this step and take your time to make sure that all the strips are
aligned as perfectly as possible before clamping everything down.
This will really help to reduce the amount of sanding that you'll have to do later on.
Next day I removed the clamps from the assembly and began sanding, starting from 80 grit all the
way up to 220 grit. Then it's time to apply some finish to it and start on the drawers.
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forget to follow us on Instagram @ToolsToday. You know all of those pieces left over after
carving the strips for the base? Well, that's what I will be using to make everything for the drawers
because we're all about efficiency here. And once these were cut down to size I laid out the rabbets
for joining these drawer pieces. And to make the cuts I swapped over to my Amana Prestige
dado blades which I always trust to leave me with those nice clean cuts all around. And
besides cutting the rabbets along the ends I also cut one along what will be the bottom of all the
pieces for receiving a drawer bottom later on. And then I can start putting all the pieces together.
Besides glue I’m also going to add some screws for additional reinforcements. And to do so I will use
the Amana Non-marring Countersink bit to pre-drill and create the pockets for the screws to sit in.
And just to keep everything looking clean I will use the Timberline plug cutters to make
all the plugs that will fill in these countersunk holes and hide the screws.
And even though there are only eight plugs I still chose to use the Amana plug planer
because it makes really quick work of flushing up all the plugs and, you know,
just kind of fun to use. And lastly I cut a piece of half inch plywood to size for
the drawer bottom and attached it to the rest of the assembly using glue.
Now since I won't be using drawer slides for this because of the curvature of the base, I attached
three runners on the bottom of the drawer box with brad nails and glue, to help reduce the
amount of friction as the drawer slides in and out of the base. And then I also add a couple strips
of hardwood guides to the underside of the face using screws countersunk into the wood to help
reduce the amount of side to side movement of the drawer. All right, the drawer is sliding nice and
smooth. Now let's carve the drawer front which I’ll start with the Amana Spectra-coated quadrant
spiral bit and the 3D adaptive clearing tool path to efficiently remove the bulk of the material.
And once that's done I will swap over to my eighth-inch radius angled ball nose bit
for the finishing pass to smooth out all the curves in the design. With a high quality bit
like this and small passes it leaves me with a surface that won't need any additional sanding.
And last but not least I switched back to the quarter-inch spiral bit to do a 2D contour tool
path to cut out the final shape of the drawer front. And I also cut an additional piece for
the drawer pull which will be attached to the drawer front separately. And here's the test
fit to see how all of that will come together. All right everything's pretty much done now and
the drawer front's looking really good, but I still had a few strips of off-cuts left over
so I decided to plane them down and make some dividers for the drawer.
After cutting the dividers down to size, I laid out the positions of the dados and
then cut out each by making a couple passes using my Amana Prestige General Purpose blade.
Once these pieces were cut I glued everything up with just a little bit of clamping pressure since
these parts are pretty thin, and while I let that dry I prep the drawer front and the drawer pull
for painting by taping up all of the surfaces that will receive glue, and then I’m ready to paint.
And I know I’m going with some pretty bold colors for this but that's because this is
going to my office which already has a ton of really bright colors,
so I kind of wanted to stay with that look for this project.
After gluing the handle in place I used double sided tape to temporarily hold the
drawer front to the drawer box. And then once again using the Amana countersink bit
to drill the holes for the screws used to permanently keep everything together.
Last but not least I put the dividers into the drawer box which are just friction fitted inside
so that I can change the layout in the future. And that's it. Although these colors aren't my
first choice for something like this I’m really liking the way it looks with the whole theme I’VE
already got going on in this space. Alright. Thank you guys so much for
watching this monitor-stand build, and I really hope you guys liked it.
If you feel inspired to build one for yourselves, be sure to check out all the
awesome tools I used from ToolsToday for this project in the descriptions below.
And once again this is Alex from Bevelish Creations. I’ll catch you guys next time.