Hey guys, jay here and
welcome back to another video.
We are going to continue on
from my previous video about film simulations
and go over the other settings you can adjust
to change the look of your image.
Keep in mind that these settings
will only apply to JPEG images
and will not apply if
you are shooting in RAW,
however all your setting adjustments
will be rendered in real time
through the camera viewfinder and LCD,
so it also serves as a
visual guide to aid you
on your personal shooting experience.
Film simulations form the base
from which you can then continue
to change the following settings
to really personalise the look
of your own image.
Today I’ll be using the X100V
as an example, so depending
on your fujifilm camera model,
some of these settings
will not be applicable,
so just pick the ones
that are relevant to you.
I set up a scene showcasing
a good variance in color
and light to give you
a fair comparison of what each setting does.
This scene was shot outdoors,
with fixed aperture and fixed ISO
at 160 and shutter speed
set to auto unless specified.
The film simulation I used is Acros
and Provia and the
white balance is set to auto.
Let’s work our way down
from Film Simulations,
The first setting is Monochromatic color.
This setting only applies to the
Black and White film simulations
Acros and Monochrome.
What it does is change the
warmness or coolness of your
black and white images.
While this isn’t personally
something I would ever use,
some may find it visually appealing.
Next is Grain Effect.
Traditional film had unique qualities
and character to them,
and a big reason why is due to
the way different films render grain.
Fujifilm allows you to digitally
produce grain to bring your images
closer to a film-like look.
It may be considered a gimmick,
however with fujifilm’s extensive
knowledge of film,
the grain effect can produce
pleasing results.
Roughness controls the texture
of the grain.
Strong roughness will make
your image appear more gritty.
The size determines
how big or small each
individual grain particle is.
This is a cropped look comparing
no grain to all possible
combinations of grain effects.
Colour chrome effect controls
the tonality of reds, yellows and greens.
It will enhance these colours by
selectively increasing the
saturation and contrast.
It is a very subtle difference
but can work really well
in environments where these
colours are very apparent.
Colour Chrome FX blue
is strictly for the blue colour.
Fujifilm’s colour science is known
for rendering very unique
and pleasing blues,
as many fuji users would
describe as fuji blues.
Chrome FX blue simply
enhances it even more.
I would imagine this setting
will work very well where
there is abundant clear blue skies
or very modern industrial architecture
with a lot of cool chrome
or steel materials.
White Balance will modify
how the camera will expose the scene
in the most natural way.
In most cases,
shooting outside has different
lighting conditions from
shooting indoors with artificial lighting.
Setting the white balance to auto
is generally the best way to go
for any situation,
however if you know exactly
what lighting situation
you are shooting in,
the other settings
might be more accurate.
If you want to be very precise,
there are three custom
white balance settings
you can assign.
All you need to do is have
a neutral colour, like a white piece of paper,
placed within the scene.
Position the focus square so that
it is within that colour and
press down the shutter button.
The camera will calculate
the most optimal white balance
based on the colour it focused on.
Every white balance setting
also allows you to fine tune the amount
of red or blue hues.
Here are examples of
what each quadrant of the grid
can result in.
Keep in mind I used
a midrange setting for all.
This is essentially color grading in camera,
and it is highly customisable,
so I encourage you to
play around with it
and find what works for you.
Moving on the Dynamic Range.
It essentially controls the contrast of a scene.
For example, choosing a
lower value will increase
the contrast in an environment
with less highlight and shadow difference,
and higher value will decrease
the contrast in environments
with greater highlight and shadow difference.
Dynamic range priority
is essentially everything
in the dynamic range setting,
but it will also control
highlights and shadows
to make sure as much detail
in the respective areas are preserved.
When this setting is turned on,
the Dynamic Range and
Tone Curve settings cannot be set.
The camera will evaluate the scene
and automatically change
dynamic range percentage
and shadow and highlight levels
to create the optimal outcome.
The Tone Curve setting
isn’t available in older models
of fujifilm cameras,
which had separate settings
for both highlights and shadows.
With the tone curve consolidating
both highlights and shadows
into one setting,
and the live preview while making adjustments,
it makes it a lot easier to
visualise how the two settings
will work with one another and
how it affects the overall images.
Shadows will deepen the
darker parts of the image
and highlights will brighten
the lighter parts.
Pretty straightforward,
but by tweaking it a bit,
it can create a dramatic effect
to any image.
Color will increase or decrease
the saturation, best used
sparingly since most of the film simulations
are fairly close to each other
in terms of color saturation.
Sharpness will digitally sharpen
or soften hard edges.
Hard edges are more apparent
in areas where there is
more contrast in light or colour.
The X-Trans sensor on fujifilm cameras
omits the need for an antialiasing filter,
which makes images render
fairly sharp by default,
so adjust the sharpness sparingly
when moving into the positive values.
Noise reduction is self explanatory,
and this setting works better
when shooting at higher ISOs.
As you know, the higher the ISO,
the more digital noise in an image.
Noise reduction attempts
to smooth out the noise.
This setting is, in my personal opinion,
not important for photography.
In general, digital noise is
well handled on newer fujifilm cameras,
so going into the positive values
may do more damage than good.
If however you wish to preserve
or enhance the noise,
you could push it into the negative values,
but do so sparingly,
especially if you already
have the grain setting active.
Finally we have Clarity,
which is similar to sharpness,
but instead of just defining hard edges,
It will apply digital sharpening
to the entire image.
I’m not too familiar with this setting myself,
but I will let you decide
how important this effect is for your images.
So as you can see,
there is quite a lot of
powerful editing capability
built into the fujifilm camera
to allow for some really creative
straight out of camera results.
In a lot of cases, the convenience
of having a pleasing image
without any time spent on post processing,
gives you more time to focus
and enjoy your photographic journey.
I hope this video has helped.
If you found it helpful,
let me know and do share it
with anyone who is new
to the fujifilm system.
Thanks again, and until next time.