Whether you’re remodeling a basement, adding a divider wall, or building an addition, save
some cash by installing your own drywall.
We’ll show you basic steps for hanging drywall on wall studs. When it comes to sizes, 5/8-inch
is heaviest and most sound proof; ½-inch is the most common type used for walls and
ceilings; 3/8-inch is best to cover existing walls for a remodel; and ¼-inch is the choice
for curves.
Before hanging, cover electrical and plumbing lines with nail protector plates.
When installing, you want the least number of seams as possible, usually that means hanging
the panels horizontally. Use the largest pieces you can handle, and stagger any vertical joints.
Don’t place any seams at corners of doorways or windows—they’ll crack. Place them near
the middle of the opening. Also, leave a ½-inch gap at the floor.
Starting with the top row, apply adhesive to the studs. Adhesive prevents popped nail
heads. Hold the first sheet horizontal against the ceiling and corner, and drive a few nails
in just to hold it. The vertical edges need to attach to studs.
Measure and mark the next piece. Make it about ¼-inch short—you don’t want to force
it into place. Score the front side, snap it, and cut the paper backing. Smooth the
rough edges with a rasp. Position the piece and tack a few ring nails in to hold it. You’ll
cover them later with joint compound.
Mark the studs and drive screws. The screw heads should be just below the paper. Drywall
drills make this happen every time. Space the screws about 16 inches apart in
the middle, and 8 inches apart along the vertical joints. Keep them at least 3/8-inch from the
edge.
For the bottom row, hold the panel in place using a foot lift to keep it a ½-inch off
the floor, and tack some nails in to hold it.
Hang the next panel and drive in all the screws.
When you run into electrical boxes, measure from the top panels, transfer the measurements
to the new piece, and cut with a drywall saw.
To cut out windows and doors, hang the top row of drywall and cut the excess with a saw.
Then hang the bottom panels and cut the remaining excess.
For inside corners, don’t force the pieces tight together.
For outside corners, let the panel overhang the corner on one side. Hang the adjacent
panel against the backside, now cut the excess.
Finishing the seams is next. Have patience with this step--it can take practice. Cover
all of the vertical joints first, then the factory tapered seams, then the corners.
Apply mesh tape to the flat seams. With a 6-inch drywall knife, spread pre-mixed compound
over the center of the vertical seams. Remove any excess by feathering the edges--press
the outside edge of the knife against the wallboard, letting the joint side rest on
the tape, and remove the compound.
Do the horizontal seams next.
Now the inside corners. Apply joint compound on each side, crease paper tape along the
centerline, and press it into place with your fingers. Run your knife carefully down one
side, then the other. Don’t cut the tape.
Now the outside corners. Cut paper-faced bead to fit. Apply a layer of compound to the corner,
press the bead into place with your fingers, then run your drywall knife over the bead
ensuring a tight fit, and removing excess compound.
Finish the first coat by covering the fasteners.
The first coat doesn’t have to be perfect, just don’t leave any excess.
Let it dry for about 24 hours.
For the fill coat, use a 6-inch knife to cover the tape with joint compound about 3/16-inch
thick on the vertical seams. Use a 10-inch knife to feather the edges, then lightly run
the knife over the middle. The vertical seams aren’t tapered, so you’ll need to feather
the compound about 14-16 inches wide to make it blend into the wall.
Now cover the horizontal seams. The feathered compound should be about 10-12 inches wide.
Next are the inside corners. Feather the compound along one side with a 6-inch knife. You’ll
do the other side on the third coat.
For outside corners, use the corner of the bead as a guide, and apply the compound to
both sides with a 10-inch knife, feathering out past the previous coat.
Then cover the fasteners again.
Let the fill coat dry for 24 hours.
Before applying the finish coat, lightly sand the joints with 120-grit sandpaper, if necessary.
Wet sponges or vacuum sanders reduce the amount of dust.
The finish coat means no tool marks.
Check the vertical seams with the flat edge of the trowel to see how far you need to feather
out the joints. Apply joint compound to all the seams and feather the edges again. This
coat should be about 16-18 inches wide.
On the inside corners, apply compound to the side that you didn’t coat yet.
The outside corners might not need another coat, but check with your knife.
And cover the fasteners if needed.
Let it dry for 24 hours and lightly sand.
For a pro finish, apply a skim coat. Roll on a thinned-down finish compound over a 4-foot
section, then use a 12-inch knife to remove the compound. Let it dry and lightly sand.
Now just apply a special drywall primer-sealer, and finish with paint.
Installing your own drywall can help you save a lot of money, and with a little patience,
you can get great results.
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Next, check out how to repair drywall.