From SwissWatchExpo…
Spotlight on: Watches that Turn 50 in the 2020s. Watches launched in the 1970s, that
will turn 50 in this decade.
The 1970s was a very challenging time for the mechanical watch industry.
Dubbed the “quartz crisis”, watch companies experienced economic upheavals with the advent
of quartz movements.
Quartz watches were a threat for two reasons – they provided more accurate chronometric
performance, AND it was possible to mass produce them.
The Swiss watch industry almost crumbled, but brands persisted with daring designs and
case shapes, as well as materials that have never been used at that point.
The era ushered in a number of memorable designs that are not just iconic but also enduring,
as they continue to be produced today.
Here are some watches launched in the 1970s, that will turn 50 in this decade.
Developed in the late 1960s with none other than legendary diver Jacques Cousteau, the
Omega PloProf was an extremely advanced diver in the 1970s.
Along with Rolex, Omega was one of the lead innovators that provided professional divers
with watches — ones that can remain underwater for very long periods of time.
What makes the PloProf (from the French “Plongeur Professionel” or professional diver) one
of a kind, is its massive 55 by 48 millimeter case and left hand crown. It also has a depth
rating of up to 1,200 meters.
In 2009, Omega released an updated version of the PloProf under the Seamaster family,
with a modernized design and movement.
Up next we have the watch responsible for the luxury watch genre – the Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak.
Faced with competition from quartz watches, Audemars Piguet knew that they had to make
a disruptive change in the industry. They asked renowned watch designer Gerald
Genta to create a unique and unprecedented timepiece. In 24 hours, he designed the Audemars
Piguet Royal Oak.
The Royal Oak made some pioneering moves: the use of finished stainless steel, instead
of the usual gold or platinum, the octagonal bezel design and the integrated bracelet that
eschewed the usual lug-and-spring.
It also defined a whole new category of watches – the stainless steel luxury sports watch
– which inspired the countless sports watches that followed.
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Closely linked to the Royal Oak, is another iconic Gerald Genta-designed piece – the
Patek Philippe Nautilus.
Following the success of the Royal Oak, Patek Philippe, which was known for making traditional
dress watches, decided that it was time to create an exclusive sport watch.
Genta knew that the Stern family, owners of Patek Philippe, had a passion for sailing.
For the design of the Nautilus, Genta took inspiration from the shape of a porthole,
like ones found on transatlantic liners back then.
The Nautilus dial, meanwhile, has horizontal embossed bars; while an integrated bracelet completes
the personality of the watch.
Today, the Nautilus is the world’s most desirable and valuable steel sports watch,
with an average waiting time of 8 years.
From Tag Heuer, makers of iconic racing watches, we have the Tag Heuer Monza.
Tag Heuer is best known for the Carrera and Monaco lines, but in 1976, they launched another
important watch with racing heritage – the Monza.
It was introduced to mark Ferrari’s 1975 Formula 1 World Championship and was meant
to be a limited edition watch, but has since seen multiple re-releases.
The original Heuer Monza came in an oval case; and was one of the first PVD-coated watches.
It returned in the late 1990s in stainless steel form with a rounded square case, which
is the case shape being produced today.
And finally, we have the Chopard Happy Diamond Watch.
While it may have been considered faddish at the time, the Chopard Happy Diamonds, whose
dial has diamonds dancing free, became one of the classics for the Chopard brand.
The signature floating stones were designed by Ronald Kurowski, a theatrical set designer.
While hiking in the Black Forest, he was enthralled by the sight of sunbeams glistening on a waterfall.
He decided to design a watch whose diamonds are free to “dance” along the dial.
Chopard has launched many editions of the Happy Diamonds – like 1993’s Happy Sport
– the first ever steel watch with diamonds; and their new collections continue to be inspired
by the playfulness of the original design.
With storied backgrounds, excellent heritage, and 50 years of history, it’s no doubt
these watches will continue make waves in the next decade.
Which watch was your favorite? Tell us in the comments section!
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