Moving on, we enter the region of Bohemia.
This part of the Czech Republic, closest to Germany,
is much-appreciated for its pastoral countryside,
and floating a few hours down the Vltava River
through Bohemian forests and villages,
you see why.
Families and gangs of friends enjoy multi-day river trips.
These guys aren't letting a little rain
dampen their spirits.
Anyone passing through can rent a canoe
and enjoy a paddle, short or long.
Float companies pick you up and drop you
at convenient and scenic spots of your choice.
Going with the flow takes you
to my favorite stop in the Czech countryside
outside of Prague, Cesky Krumlov.
The enchanting town of Cesky Krumlov --
buried in the hills of Bohemia,
lassooed by its river, and dominated by its castle --
feels lost in a time warp.
Its delightful old town of shops and cobbled lanes,
characteristic little restaurants,
and easy-going canoeing options
makes it a favorite with tourists.
And there's no shortage of accommodations.
Our home is the Castleview Apartments.
Plush and thoughtfully equipped,
my room is typical of the work locals are doing,
as even medieval lofts are being renovated
to meet the needs of the growing number of visitors.
Open beams,
a handy kitchenette,
and, as its name promises, a castle view,
make this a fine temporary home.
With a natural moat provided by the Vltava River,
it's no wonder this place has been a choice spot for ages.
The 16th century was the town's Golden Age
when Cesky Krumlov was a cultural power,
hosting artists, scientists, and alchemists
from all over Europe.
The town's many tourists set their sights
on the mighty castle of the Rosenberg family.
For three centuries, until about 1600,
the Rosenbergs, Bohemia's top noble family,
ran the city from this perch.
Its 16th-century Renaissance paint job
is fancifully restored.
Visitors wait their appointed time
for a tour in the castle courtyard.
The interior gives a glimpse of the ultimate
in Bohemian noble living through the ages.
Imagine being a guest back in the 16th century
of this man, Count Rosenberg.
You'd enjoy the scenes frescoed here
which celebrate a Rosenberg family wedding.
Then, riding his assembly line of fine living,
you'd dine here.
Come back two centuries later, and you'd dine here.
And, if the countess tired of your company,
she'd retire to her adjacent bedroom,
but only after a servant
lit the candles on her Meissen porcelain chandelier.
And of course, the party would go on,
perhaps with a Venetian-style masquerade party
in the ballroom.
For a little fresh air,
you'd hike down this corridor 150 yards
to the count's formal garden.
But don't forget,
at 8:00 P.M., the candles would be lit
for a play in the baroque theater.
Europe once had several hundred fine baroque theaters like this.
Using candles and oil lamps for light
and pyrotechnics for special effects,
eventually, most of them burned down.
Today, only four survive that are in beautiful shape
and open to the public,
like this one here at Krumlov Castle.
[ Whirring ]
Baroque theater was all about melodrama.
Lighting, perspective, and sound effects
were all melodramatic.
Even the weather was thrilling,
with machines to make horrifying wind...
[ Whirring ]
[ Rough whirring ]
A driving rainstorm...
[ Rough whirring ]
[ Rumbling ]
And menacing thunder.
Even back then, it was all about special effects.