For this video we're gonna go ahead and replace the shift coupler,
the shift rod bushing and clip and the shifter itself.
These have become pretty sloppy through the years here,
specially worn out I can hear it rattling around when this thing is driving.
The shifter itself is very very sloppy.
We get to shift coupler underneath the rear seat so that has to be removed
At which point you can pull out the screw
for the shifter access plate and then go ahead and remove the shift coupler.
We do that today with an eight-millimeter wrench
for our grub screw which holds the shift coupler to the shift rod.
There's a bushing and a rod that go through the shift rod itself
as well as the grub screw that goes to the shift coupler.
That's just an eight millimeter we pull that out,
save that for later unless of course you've already gotten a new one.
Then with a pair of pliers go ahead and hold the through rod.
Then the same 8 millimeter wrench to loosen up the bolt that holds it through the rod and coupler
Now as we can see these bushings are completely worn through.
To the point where it's not even attached to itself.
At this point we can drop the shift rod itself
down and pull off the cage for the shift coupler.
Take out the stock shifter 2 13 millimeter bolts here
I've already gotten them loosened slightly, so i'll just use my fingers.
As always save your hardware until you have new replacement hardware.
Just like that stock shifter comes out which
in this case is actually missing you the reverse lock out plate.
We'll get into that when we put the new shifter in place.
To get access to two access plates that are used when pulling out the shift rod.
We're gonna have to open up the hood and remove the spare tire.
Once the spare tires out there's a small Phillips head screw that you can remove
to pull off the access plate on the back side of the apron.
On later model cars there's going to be an eight millimeter nut
holding around cover plate that going to allow you to pull the
shift rod through the front apron of the car.
Once those two plates are out we can get underneath the car, and in between the two torsion tubes,
pull off the two 10 millimeter bolts and the oval cover plate there.
At which point the shift rod can be pulled out.
Alright then you reach up underneath
through the access plate that we just took out.
Go ahead pull out the shift rod and feed through the front of the car.
That's why the holes are here.
We can see the remnants of the original shift rod bushing
and the clip which is still there and in relatively good shape.
Note that we are note that we already clip on the bushing before we install it into the hanger.
Heck of a lot easier to do it beforehand than after hand.
One of the least favorite part of this job is actually sticking this bushing
into the hanger down below here.
I've dropped more of these things in my lifetime than I care to count.
I've done this a time or two and I got lucky it popped in first time.
All right now the shift rod bushing clip is in place along with the shift rod bushing.
We're going to go ahead and feed the shift rod back into
the tunnel through the access plate.
Back underneath the car
and give the thing a good shove.
Alright now to got the fun part of the actual shift rod aligned with the clip.
We come back up to the front of the car and you need to push that rod back all the way in.
Alright the last fun bit after we've got the
shift rod put in place from the front, pushed back slightly.
We'll grab it as we see here pair pliers or otherwise
and pull it back until you see shift rod
cup lined up with the shift hole.
Installing the shift coupler put the cage in first
and screw in the grub screw. 8 millimeter wrench
to tighten it in place.
There is a hole for safety wire. The reason we do saftey wire here is because
at the transmission there's a lot of vibration. These screws are very prone to becoming loose.
At which point your shifter is no longer attached your transmission.
With the sleeve installed
in one half of the bushing were going to attempt using a magnet
to get this guy in place.
Push the sleeve all the way through and into the bushing on the other side.
At which point we can start to screw our screw in.
With the shift rod pushed back in place.
We can install the 2 10 millimeter bolts holding the access plate to the tunnel.
We can install the phillips screw holding the inner plate in place and the 8 millimeter nut
holding the outset cover plate in place as well.
With the shift rod reverse lockout plate in place.
You know its correctly inside because the long side
is on the right hand side pointing forward.
Well go ahead set the spring in place.
Put the shift rod in place pushing down to make certain it's fully seated in the cup.
We'll line up the 2 13 millimeter bolts.
With those loosely in place just want to find a happy medium between left and
right movement on the plate, and for and aft and then tighten the bolt out completely.
Install the boot stretch it over and put in place.
Now that everything is reassembled,
we can see that our shifter as much more positive feeling.
There's very little play side to side
and everything is from relatively firm
and precise like you'd expect it should be.