It’s nearly Christmas! And, what better way to celebrate Christmas than by teaming
up with a bunch of other epic history YouTubers and talking about our local history. I’m
stood here in my hometown, and as you can see, it has some pretty epic walls. In fact,
these are some of the best preserved medieval walls in Britain, with roughly half of the
walls still standing.
So here is a History of Southampton, told through it’s defences.
The history of Southampton begins first here in Bitterne, where, in around 70 AD the Romans
build a town called ‘Clausentum’ on the River Itchen - one of two rivers which run
through modern Southampton. In the 2nd century this little town is fortified. An earth rampart
is built with a wooden palisade on top and a ditch is dug. In the 4th century, the inner
area is given its own stone walls, but in 407 AD the Romans leave Britain and the town
of Clausentum is soon abandoned.
The next chapter of Southampton’s history begins when a King of Wessex builds a new
town on the other side of the Itchen. This town is named ‘Hamwic’ or ‘Hamtun’
- note: this is the reason for the county being named ‘Hampshire’ and not ‘Southamptonshire’.
It becomes a large and important port, with a population of between 4 and 5 thousand,
which is huge for a town of its time.
However, in the 10th century, Hamwic begins to fall into decline. Some possible reasons
for this are that the Itchen has begun to silt up, and also that it has been the target
of several viking raids. Many people probably move to Winchester, 10 miles up the road,
or to a new settlement on the river Test - the other river which runs through modern Southampton.
This settlement is also called Hamwic but it’s smaller.
Following the Norman Conquest, many Frenchmen come to live in what is by this point called
’Southampton’ The Normans build a wooden, motte and bailey castle in Southampton, which
is rebuilt in stone in the 12th century. The town grows rapidly again, probably having
around 3000-4000 inhabitants by the 14th century. And the town now begins to expand outwards,
and a shipbuilding industry emerges.
By the 13th century Southampton has been fortified with an earth rampart and a wooden palisade
and ditch. And this is then replaced in the years 1260 to 1300 with a stone wall - Bargate
and Eastgate are the first sections built. The problem with this wall, however, is that
it only protects the landward side of the town, and this proves to be quite a problem.
In 1338, a force of Frenchmen and Sicilians land on the shingle spit near St Michael’s
Square, while the people of Southampton were at mass. They brake into St Michael’s church,
indiscriminately killing the people they come across.
Some flee to the countryside, gathering with men from the surrounding area and preparing
a counter attack. This counter attack is launched early the following morning, killing more
than 300 of the attackers. The rest flee to their ships and sail away.
The following year, King Edward III orders improvements to be made to the fortifications.
It was neither quick nor easy for the town, but several new towers were added to the walls.
And between 1378 and 1380 the keep of the castle is rebuilt, completing the improvements.
The Bargate is given a new makeover, with machicolations (holes for dropping stuff on
attackers) being added. The walls were also extended to cover the seafront.
By this point, Southampton is the 3rd largest port in the country, after London and Bristol.
Things are looking up for Southampton.
In the early 15th century, there are substantial modifications to the castle and walls to support
the instillation of artillery - the arrow slits on most towers are converted into gun
ports. Catchcold Tower is built specifically to improve the artillery defences.
However, this luck doesn’t last long. In the late 15th century, wine trade with the
Italians, which had been very important for the town, falls into decline. It had also
lost its monopoly on the legal export of tin and lead in 1531. In the 16th century it ceases
to be an important port.
The town becomes incredibly run down, the walls said to be overgrown with ‘elders,
yes and such other weeds’. The poor use the towers around the walls as dwellings and
local butchers graze their animals on the hill under the castle keep.
In 1618, Southampton Castle is sold off to private owners, who used material from the
castle for other projects, including the repair of the walls.
By 1707, part of God’s House tower is being used as a prison, and one with notably poor
conditions.
In 1750, Prince Frederick goes bathing in the sea at Southampton. He enjoys his time
so much that he returns again the same year. Even though he dies the following year, his
sons now come to visit the town and soon many rich visitors follow. The port also begins
to pick up with wine trade with Portugal being conducted through it.
From 1770, Southampton begins to grow north of the Bargate. The population rises from
around 6000 in 1770 to 8000 in 1801 and improvements are made to the city. For instance, oil lamps
arrive in some streets.
In 1765, a passage way for pedestrians is cut through the east of the Bargate. And in
1775, Eastgate is demolished as it impedes the flow of traffic now coming though the
town. In 1799 a wooden bridge is also built across the Itchen at Northam.
Southampton castle has survived as a ruin until 1804, when it is rebuilt into a Gothic
Style mansion by John Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, in an act of historical vandalism that is
quite common among the aristocracy at this time. The new structure fails to make a good
home, however, and is abandoned within 15 years. The entire structure is demolished,
leaving just the fragments of the castle seen here today.
Soldiers passing through Southampton during the Napoleonic wars means Southampton is thriving
again, even though it has lost its place as a seaside resort to Brighton.
The docks and shipyards are expanded and in 1822 a paddle steamer begins running between
Southampton and the Isle of Wight, with other paddle steamers to France and the Channel
Islands soon being set up. By 1830, 100 000 people are traveling from Southampton by steamship
every year.
The city begins to rapidly expand. In the 1840s it spreads to Northam, then Freemantle
and Newtown. And then Shirley, St Denys, Portswood then Swaythling, and after 1900 Bitterne Park
is built.
In 1840 the railway reaches Southampton, causing the decline of the stagecoach industry. Horse
drawn buses are introduced during the decade and from 1879 there are horse draw trams.
These trams are then electrified after 1900.
The town is not sanitary, however, and there are cholera epidemics 1849 and 1965. In one
case, 77 people are said to share 1 toilet.
But, by 1888, most people in the town have piped water, and the following year the first
streetlights are switched on.
North Atlantic trade begins to increase and the Southampton continues its role in the
transport of passengers via sea. In 1812, a rather notorious Titanic set sail on her
maiden voyage from Southampton.
In 1920, the boundaries of Southampton are expanded to include Bitterne, Sholing, Woolston,
Weston, Peartree, Bassett and Swaythling.
The thriving port means the city is able to escape the worst of the Great Depression.
The city, however, does not get away so lightly during the second world war. As a major port,
and on the South coast of England, Southampton was a major target. 631 people in the town
are killed by bombs, more than 4000 houses destroyed and 11 000 seriously damaged, causing
a serious housing shortage in the following years. Around 8 million men pass through Southampton
on their way to the front. Parts of the walls are used to mount searchlights and machine
guns, and miraculously the walls manage to survive the war without obtaining any damage.
In 1949 the city’s tram’s cease to run, although the town continues to remain a major
port. The boundaries of the town are expanded again, in 1954, to include, Millbrook, Redbridge,
Harefield and part of Thornhill. And in 1964 Southampton finally gets city status.
In the post war period, Southampton’s walls finally get recognised for their historic
important, paving the way for the conservation work which has been conducted since.
With the popularisation of air travel, the number of passengers travelling through the
port fell, but we still have plenty of rich people travelling through our city so they
can hop on a cruise.
During the 80s Southampton got the Bargate Shopping centre. I’m not entirely sure when
it closed, apparently it was during my lifetime, but I don’t ever remember it being open.
In 1991, we got the Marlands, and in 2000 West Quay opened. In 2017, ‘West Quay Watermark’,
a new expansion to West Quay was opened, creating this epic space by the wall. If you’re speak
to a local though, ‘West Quay Watermark’ is much better known as ‘the new West Quay’
- I only found out that was the official name when researching for this video.
And that really takes you up to today. Southampton still has a thriving docks, responsible for
23% of our air pollution in the city, a population of 253 000 (10% of which is Polish, which
I think is pretty cool), and two Universities. As well as a long standing rivalry with neighbouring
city Portsmouth. But we all know Southampton’s better.