So now we're onto the final stage in the reloading process, which is seating the bullet head
into the case which has got the powder and the primer in it.
Okay so we need a few basic tool obviously we have the seating dye
which you need to adjust according to you manufacturers instructions.
And what i do with these is there's an adjustable
rotary head here which if you wind it up
you see the bullet more shallowly; wind it down
it's more deep. So you start with
with the extended out quite a way.
The prepared cartridge goes in the shell holder as normal.
Your selected bullet
needs to be carefully placed on top as squarely as you can.
And the action is raise the ramp
hold a bullet to keep it aligned until
it's well into the dye.
Move the rounder on about halfway up the travel and bring it back out.
The reason for this is you can then
allow for any lack of concentricity within the dye.
Turn it one hundred eighty degrees
and fully seat the bullet.
Now because we got this wound up a little high at the moment that bullet will
likely be too long.
And the criticality of that measure is we must not exceed
the book maximum cartridge overruling.
Neither must we go to a shorter cartridge than is defied in the book
for your bullet for your charge weight so we're between those two bands.
This is why i suggest we start long
and creep up on the measurement that we want. I'm aiming for the maximum cartridge overall
length of two point seven one zero,
for a two four three Winchester
At present measured by the calapers.
i'm a two point seven one nine so I'm about nine thousand over.
All I do
is i simply tweak this down clockwise a fraction.
And i sneak up on that measurement by repeated seating.
Once... once this dye is set I can leave it but I'm still five thousand over.
So its very small adjustments. Very small adjustments
you'll get used to your own dye.
And there's no rush to this just cree up on it gradually.
I'm at two point seven one two now.
Tiny...
tiny tweak and we should be there.
Because it is not it's not a hugely lengthy process.
Two point seven one one.
You get the idea it's gradually gradually creeping up on the process and this
on the overall length.
Two point seven one zero.
So will that now work?
For every single cartridge you put through there?
Yep, that dye assuming you don't fiddle with it is now set and
I can simply
speed up the process now next
cartridge or next brass next bullet hold it in.
Seat it halfway down. Let it out.
Hundred an eighty degree turn to
balance out concentrancity issues.
And allowing for the manufacturing tolerances on the bullets, you'll find
some of these will come out shorter or longer by a fraction of a you know
by a couple of thou. And then you can work through the whole batch. Yeah work through a whole batch.
Yeah
It's worth meausuring these things
rather than just relying on the press because there's certain tolerances in here.
You may find you need to tweak it down a little bit up a little bit but
By and large that is now set.
I've set to the maximum
provided you dont dip below the minimum specified in the book for the particular
cartridge sorryfor the particular bullet and charge weight
you'll be as safe as houses.
You may want to get a bullet out of the case once you've loaded it.
There are few reasons for this bullet head might be seated too deep in the case.
They might be leftovers from test floats or the bullet head
might be damaged. The tool we use for this is a magnetic bullet hammer and this is how it
operates.
As you can see the bullet head has dropped into the bottom of the hammer.The powder
has come out and it's left the case where it is. So we'll need to open this up now and
in clean it out. Tune in for the
next installment
of Team Wild's academy series on reloading your
own ammunition.
In two weeks time we'll be looking at how to make the brass safer with use.
visit hornady.com for all of the equipment you need
to begin reloading your own ammunition.
If you've missed a previous episodes in the series click one of the links now.
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