most students will need to do a multipass t joint with 7018 and so I put
this video together with students in mind let's do it
7018 rods usually run pretty good at 1 amp per 1,000th of electrode diameter so
a 1/8 is 125 thousandths which would be a hundred and 25 amps but all brands run
a little bit differently so I'm running at 130 today electrode angle is
important to just a slight drag angles probably what I'm going to try to use
you can use a more of an angle you can almost go straight in as long as you
hold a good tight arc the tight arc is very important I'm going to try to use
an angle like this for most of it but on the top or last beads I'll kick it down
like this to avoid undercut here we go you might notice you can see a little
bit of a yellow turbo fan in the background there a fan is a great idea
if you position your fan correctly you can get rid of the smoke out of your
breathing zone if your school has a fume extractor snorkel hood type thing
definitely pull that thing down and suck those fumes away from you ok so I'm just
holding a tight arc and what I mean by a tight arc is that I can almost feel the
flux that's baked on the outside of that rod I can almost feel it
scrubbing here and there on the base metal I'm not trying to jam it in there
deep I'm just kind of gently letting the metal kind of hold a little bit of the
weight trying to hold my arm still and not shake all around I did not clean any
of the mill scale off for this particular little skill exercise it is
best practice it will weld a little bit better but for the sake of training I
just think it's wise to just spend your time welding and you get on groove welds
and Bend tests and things like that definitely clean the mill scale
practising restarts is something that pays big dividends
I used a 12 inch long T joint today just for that reason so I would have to do a
few restarts so let's look at a restart here real quick
there is the crater where I stopped I like to strike the arc right in front of
that long arc it a little bit and then take it right into that crater
then take off and we'll Dover top of all the arcs trucks and cred that I just
laid down whatever method you use for a restart you just don't want to have arc
strikes outside of the weld zone you want to weld back over top of any arc
strike now it's time to stack a second bead on the bottom half of that bead
this is my rod angle for that and pointing a little bit more toward the
bottom member and I'm not exactly going to stack it exactly halfway more more
like two thirds of the way over top of that first bead I'm kind of lining the
top edge of that bead up with the toe of the previous weld and trying to keep
that little spacing the edge of my bead you know an even distance from the toe
of that previous weld this is sped up a little bit but I mentioned earlier that
arc angle or electrode angle is very forgiving as long as you keep a tight
arc you can see I'm almost going straight in and then maybe even a slight
push which is not recommended but if you got enough amperage and things are going
well again the electrode angle can be very forgiving I chose a short rod
because I've only got a short distance to go to finish this run and I'm propped
up here a lot more rigid than I would be with just holding it with one hand
because I don't want to leave any arc strikes outside the weld zone all right
last bead rod angle is just a little bit different I'm using a slight drag angle
but I'm angled definitely more horizontal pointing the the electrode
into the top member a lot more to avoid undercut and I'm trying to just go along
at a nice steady pace not get carried away with rod angle a slight drag angle
keeping my arc length good and tight things are going pretty well I'm trying
to eyeball the bottom edge of that bead and keep it the same distance from the
toe of that bottom weld I'm not doing any distinct electrode manipulation or
anything or any circles or anything like that if I do I do I'm super tiny just in
my mind I'm doing I mean you can't really even tell alright one a little
bit more and we'll be done
we're gonna do a cutting-edge here in just a minute when we're finished with
this thing and it cools off get a look at it see how we did
cutting edge will tell us if we got penetration into the root or if we got
any voids in between beads or if we got any undercut for the low spots so let's
speed the rest of this up so we can get to the cutting edge
okay let's knock that slag off there give it a wire brushing and take a look
at it the great thing about a cutting edge test is while the puddle is still
fresh in your mind you can kind of correlate what you see as far as how
deeply everything penetrated or didn't penetrate and then you can make
adjustments to either your procedure your amperage or your technique or
something or you just show yourself that you don't need to change much and
everything worked out okay either way one test beats a hundred opinions well
thanks for watching my online store is weldmonger dot com
I appreciate your support
you