- I'm Brian Sacawa, you're watching "He Spoke Style."
And today we're going over 10 black tie rules
you always need to follow.
(upbeat music)
Number one, make sure the fabric of your lapel
matches the fabric of your bow tie.
If you have a satin lapel, wear a satin bow tie.
If you have a grosgrain lapel, wear a grosgrain bow tie.
If you mix and match, it just doesn't look cohesive.
The only exception to this rule
is if you have a self-facing lapel,
meaning a lapel in the same fabric as your jacket.
If your lapel is self-facing,
you can really choose whichever you like.
Personally, I think satin looks better in those instances
and also the other wild card is the velvet bow tie.
You do not need a velvet lapel to wear a velvet bow tie.
For me, a velvet bow tie
looks best with a self-facing shawl lapel.
But if you're talking about a really classic black tie look,
I would not do a velvet bow tie,
save it for a dinner jacket and a more festive occasion
like New Year's Eve.
Speaking of bow ties,
number two, do not wear a clip-on bow tie.
Please.
It looks tacky, it looks cheap,
it looks too perfect.
One of the more interesting things
I've found in the world of men's style
is that when things look too perfect, they just look wrong.
Tying your own bow tie
is a skill that every guy should have
especially when it comes to getting dressed up
in a tuxedo.
Number three, make sure you are wearing a cummerbund.
Details matter, it says a lot about you
if you pay attention to them,
especially when we're talking about
a very prescriptive dress code.
The cummerbund covers the waist
and provides a measure of cohesiveness and completeness
for the whole black tie look.
Same rule as the lapel and bow tie,
if you've got a satin lapel,
wear a satin cummerbund.
Grosgrain lapel, grosgrain cummerbund.
If it's a self-facing lapel,
again, it's your choice.
I find that satin looks better in that situation.
Final thing to note about a cummerbund
is to make sure the pleats face up.
Number four, do not wear a regular suit with a bow tie.
If you don't have a tux, you don't have a tux.
But a suit with a bow tie
is not a substitute for a tuxedo.
You will look completely out of place, full stop.
And since we're on the topic of looking out of place.
Number five, don't be creative.
A black tie event is not the time to be different
and call attention to yourself.
One of the things about black tie
is that it's a dress code
that's designed so that everyone looks uniform.
The way to stand out in situations like this
is to pay attention to details especially fit.
If you are in a room full of tuxedos
and yours fits perfectly,
you will look great and you will stand out.
Unless the invitation specifically says creative black tie,
don't think outside the box.
Number six, make sure you're wearing the right shirt.
Not all shirts are created equal when it comes to black tie
and there are a few specific things
you should pay attention to.
Collar should be a turned down collar,
not a wing collar,
wing collar is used for white tie.
Cuffs, make sure you have a double cuff or French cuff
for the appropriate level of formality.
For the front of the shirt,
it could be pleated, it could have a Marcella bib,
or it could be plain for a more modern take,
you could do a fly front.
And it's always good to have a stud set and cufflinks.
Number seven, don't rent a tux.
They're cheap, they don't fit well.
You're better than that.
If you're gonna be dressing up in a tux,
you want to look and feel your best.
That's not gonna happen
in a cheap, ill-fitting rented tuxedo.
A tuxedo is an investment
but it is one that more than pays for itself over time.
Number eight, if you're getting your own tux made,
be sure to pay attention to some specific details.
You wanna have that satin stripe
down the side of the pants which should be plain bottom.
Jetted pockets only.
Lapels, do not do a tuxedo with notch lapels.
Peak is the most classic,
shawl, a little more relaxed,
and double vent is an acceptable modern update.
Number nine, make sure you've got the right shoes.
They need to be black, they need to be simple.
At the very least,
they should be a well-shined pair of black Oxfords.
Patent leather typically is more for white tie,
but also acceptable.
Better to be overdressed rather than underdressed.
In terms of loafers,
like a velvet slipper or a suede loafer,
generally reserved for more informal black tie events
as oxymoronic as that sounds,
like something at someone's home.
You can wear them,
just make sure you're considering the overall formality
of the entire event.
Finally, number 10, sock choice.
If you really want to do black tie right,
you have to wear black silk socks.
Again, this is such a minor detail
but if you pay attention to it,
it speaks volumes about you.
Bonus topic, a watch.
Should you wear a watch with black tie?
I did a deep dive into this topic in a previous video.
It's linked right up there.
It's kind of contentious.
And I'll just tell you
that although I am more or less a strict rule follower
when it comes to the black tie dress code,
a watch is something that I think
is completely acceptable to wear.
Not any watch though,
it should be time only, on a black leather strap,
and matching any other metals that you are wearing.
There you have it.
Those are my 10 rules
I think you should always follow
when it comes to black tie.
Agree? Disagree?
Let me know in the comments.
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Until next time.
Thanks for watching and stay tailored.
(upbeat music)