Hey folks!
SRAM X1 has three crank sets, this particular one is a Boost 148, X1 1000.
They have a 1200, and a 1400 cranks, difference between them being the crank arms,
the way they are machined.
The 1200 and 1400 saving a bit of weight.
They all use the same chainrings, the X-Sync,
specially designed for 1x systems.
There are 11 speed, they they have these toll teeth,
and especially machined profile to clear out mud and whatnot.
And if you want to install or remove these cranks,
check your bottom bracket, everything is done from the non-drive side.
And in case you're wondering,
the BCD here on the crank arm spider is 94 millimeters.
Here, on the non-drive side, you can see
that this is a PressFit GXP MTB bottom bracket.
And believe it or not, all you need to extract these cranks
is an 8 milimeter Allen key.
These are self extracting and you actually have a cap here,
this is a 10 millimeter Allen key.
You have a cap that has to be in place
I'm going to remove it quickly to show you what's under.
You got to make sure that this is in place,
and it has a bit of grease in here.
This one has plenty of grease so,
as you start to undo that 8 millimeter an Allen key,
is going to push against this cap.
This cap is attached to your crank arm
and is going to pull it out.
So, let me put that back,
Again, all you need is the 8 millimeter Allen key.
Here we go
And I just finish doing this, here it is.
It will come right out.
This is made of soft rubber.
Comes right out.
What you see here is ideal.
I have quite a bit of grease, clean grease, underneath this seal.
Use the same flat screwdriver to make sure that these grooves
are nice and clean.
Push your spindle out, this is your bearing,
make sure it rotates freely.
It doesn't have any play in it.
Pretty much the same story here on the drive side.
Use your flat screwdriver to remove that rubber seal.
Clean it thoroughly, and you see here,
right exposed is the bearing on the drive side.
Make sure is running nice and smooth.
By the way, this GXP bottom bracket uses
a 24 millimeter opening here,
on the other side it is only 22 millimeter.
With everything removed and cleaned,
I discovered that this is probably 1400 crank set, not a 1000.
And that's because once you remove this spider,
you can install a direct mount, a SRAM direct mount chainring.
In this case, the spider can be removed, use a T25 Torx
to remove your three screws from there.
In order to remove the chainring, again 94 millimeter BCD,
you need a 5 and a 6 millimeter hex.
This is a different than Shimano, so one on each side.
And...
what we have here?
This is the bolt that keeps the cranks arms in place.
See it has this little washer, and then you have the cap.
It's cleaned up ready to go back on.
Here's where one of your bearings are going to sit, right here.
The other one sits here on the 22 millimeter, remember one is thinner.
And talking about sequencing ,
You get this wavy washer first
and you get the dust cap
and on the other side, you're going to have this flower looking dust cap,
and that's your assembly.
To install everything back on,
and first of all, obviously you're talking about
either direct mounted chainring or this spider,
This only goes in one way, just line up the holes here.
Put a bit of Loctite on your bolts,
and you have 7-8 Nm torque
for the three bolts holding the spider in place.
Next it's going to be your chainring, put it back on.
Remember to put a bit of blue Loctite over here as well.
And again, all you need is
a 5 and a 6 mm Allen keys, one on each side.
And here it is, one, two, three, four,
criss cross pattern when you tighten it up,
7-8 Nm torque as well.
For those of you wondering about weight,
here's my cranks, 604 grams,
spider, 649 g,
chainring, 705 g,
and all the bolts in there,
728 grams, and that is without the bottom bracket.
Took the opportunity to replace my chainring as well,
you can see good quality grease here on the wavy washer,
on the spindle,
on the back of this dust cap.
Here on the spindle again,
threads here,
little cap,
bolt, they are all greased-up.
Same on the bottom bracket, you can see the same quality grease here on this drive side bearing.
Here on the non-drive side, this bearing shield
has a few surfaces.
I talked about this lip previously, and also you have another lip over here,
make sure they're nice and clean.
And I'm going to fill that area with clean grease.
And here it is ready to go.
Reinstalling the crankset,
push the spindle from the drive side.
As it goes in you see plenty of grease all around there.
This flower shape seal.
Push in your other crank arm
in the correct position,
and the last bit here,
is to install your bolt.
Remember, this was the 8 millimeter Allen key.
Torque recommended by SRAM on this bolt
is anywhere between 48 I think and 54 Newton meters.
So call it at 50 Nm.
And last thing, reinstall the little cap.
tighten it snug.
There are people losing this cap
only because they don't have it tightened- up.
Now, don't go crazy...
As you know already,
this doesn't do a whole lot
under normal operation.
So yeah, tighten this bolt,
make sure that your cranks are rotating nice and round,
Make sure there is no play here, lateral play in your cranks.
There's no play in mine.
If there's any play SRAM recommends taking it down,
regreasing everything and putting it back on.
And yeah, that's pretty much it folks.
Let me know if you have any questions
in the section below.
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and until next time,
thanks for watching!