Nelson Lakes National Park was once a land of giant glaciers dominating the Northern
South Island.
They have slowly retreated over time carving out a spectacular landscape made up of alpine
lakes that lead up into the rugged mountain peaks of the Southern Alps.
The park offers exploration opportunities for people of all fitness levels.
One rewarding alpine crossing lays deep in the park, requiring a lot of time, commitment
and skill to complete…
… Waiau Pass
No matter where you start, access to the base of Waiau pass is no easy feat.
The track is most commonly walked from Lake Rotoiti via either Travers Saddle or Lake
Rotoroa, which takes approximately 4–5 days.
Alternatively, access from the Lewis pass side takes approximately 4-5 days so you’re looking
at a minimum of at least 8-10 days for the full trip.
The track is recommended for experienced trampers (hikers) only, as crossing the pass is a highly technical
tramp (track) which in itself will take 9-12 hours over approximately 12-15km
The best time of year to attempt Waiau Pass is between Mid-December to April.
It isn’t recommended to walk outside of this period as snow covers the land forming
complex avalanche terrain, so avalanche skills and equipment are essential from May to November.
The average Summer temperature on the pass sits around 1 – 7 degrees (33– 44 Fahrenheit),
and the pass see’s approximately 179 days of rain per year.
It’s important to remember that you will be in an alpine terrain, which means there
is a good chance you will experience heavy rain, strong winds, snow and freezing temperatures
even in the height of summer.
So you’ll need warm and waterproof clothing.
The southern face of Waiau pass can hold snow well into the summer so carry an ice axe and
crampons during the shoulder months and have the skills to use them.
You can’t get any more remote in New Zealand so take a personal locator beacon, as it is
an essential communication device.
As with all walks and tramps in New Zealand make sure you 'leave your intentions' with a
trusted contact and inform them when you have finished your tramp.
You can find out more about leaving your intentions at the Mountain Safety Council website.
Walking the pass from north to south has you beginning at Blue Lake Hut.
The track starts off relatively easy in an alpine tussock field around Blue Lake, you’ll
just need to follow the orange markers to stay on the right track.
Rotomairewhenua / Blue Lake has the clearest water in the world!
Please don’t swim and wash yourself or any dishes in this water as it is sacred to local
iwi.
Also remember that camping is only permitted near the hut at the designated camp sites.
You’ll very quickly start a short climb up through the forest which brings you up
onto the Rotophueora / Lake Constance plateau.
Again, please do not swim or wash yourself here.
Here there are several tracks that split off from one another and things can become a bit
confusing.
Just keep to the far right track to stay on the right path.
It may appear better to follow the lake edge around, especially if you are walking south
to north.
However, cliffs will block your path, so make sure you follow the track, which heads up
a short scree slope onto the bluffs above the western side of the lake.
Remember to kick steps in on the scree slope and keep to the orange poles.
This will bring you onto a tussock track which is fairly easy to walk, but the presence of
snow can make it slippery, which isn’t a good thing when there is nothing but steep
cliffs below you.
Small amounts of scrambling will be required, so take your time and know your limits.
Once you descend back down to Lake Constance you’ll be approaching the end of the valley,
a short walk through some tussock will bring you to the start of the Waiau Pass climb.
The climb is steep, tough and good footing will be necessary.
The tussock quickly gives way to a scree slope.
Poor weather can result in low visibility and route finding experience will be needed.
So make sure you don’t leave your current track marker before finding the next one.
Also snow can still be present in this area throughout Summer.
As you reach the small plateau halfway up the climb a false summit directly above you
can be misleading, the track actually continues to the right and around the prominent peak.
Eventually the ground will start to even out and you will reach the summit of the pass,
you’ll be most exposed up here, especially to any strong wind coming from the North or
South.
It’s essential that you follow the orange markers on your descent.
People tend to head straight down as they can see the valley floor, however the track
actually takes a sharp right.
The descent is very steep and rocky with lots of scree, take your time and ensure you have
solid footing as the rocks and scree can easily slip and roll out from under you.
This face of the mountain does not receive much sunlight so snow may very well be present
at any time of the year.
If snow is present you will need to have an ice axe, crampons and avalanche rescue equipment
to safely descend.
If you don’t have these then be prepared to turn back and change your trip plans.
Once you have safely navigated the pass you’ll then carry on down the Waiau Valley towards
Lewis Pass.
Caroline Bivvy will be the first shelter that you come across, which only has 2 beds so
a tent may be needed to stay here, a further hour of tramping down the track will bring
you to Waiau Hut, this hut was recently built so may not appear on your map.
For more experienced trampers at alternative option is to cross over Thompson Pass to Upper
d’Urville Hut.
From there you can loop back to Lake Rotaroa, however the Thompson pass route is not a marked
route, so expert navigational skills and route finding abilities would be required.
Waiau pass is a very technical pass that requires a high level of tramping experience, the right
gear and confidence to navigate it safely.
Remember to only venture this deep into the park from mid-December through to April.
Make sure you pass through and talk to the DOC staff at the Nelson Lakes visitor centre
in St Arnaud to get the latest information on track and snow conditions.
Remember to always check the official mountain weather forecast at Metservice.com.
Finally, as you will be very remote its important to assess the weather at the start of the
day.
If conditions are poor its best to stay an extra night at the hut and wait for a better
day.
A thoroughly prepared trip will let you safely enjoy this one of a kind alpine climb!
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