Hello and welcome to Professor Pincushion. In this tutorial we are going to show you
the last step of prepping your pieces for making your garments or your crafts. So
we are going to be going over what markings from your pattern pieces need to be transferred
to your fabric and also different techniques for doing so, so let's go ahead and get started.
After you finish cutting out your fabric pieces from your pattern and before you remove your
needles a good idea is to look over all of your pattern pieces as if it still pinned
to your fabric pieces because sometimes there are going to be marks and these marks need
to be transferred to the fabric because they are very important items usually in either
the placement of something or where you need to stitch or something like this which is
a dart. So what you can do is either just do the dots or what I like to do is do the
dots and then I will connect a line on my fabric, so I actually have something that
looks exactly like this. You can see right here we have this dash line and it says stitching
line right side so this is another thing that you are going to want to transfer. We have
a straight line here which is a fold line, you can go ahead and do this line as well
just basically if you are unsure, if you need to transfer it to your fabric when in doubt
just transfer it, I mean worse comes to worse you won't use it but it makes it harder when
you are already going through the process and sewing things together and then you discover
that you didn't transfer one of your marks. So it's always a good idea just to transfer
everything unless you are sure that you don't need to.
Now one of them that you don't need to unless you want to is sometimes there are pattern
pieces you will see some indication on where there are marking, where the waistline is.
In this particular brand McCall's they do this with the symbol that looks kind of like
a cross there is a circle and then it has a cross in the middle. All they are doing
is just marking this area to tell you this is where the waistline is and at this point
this is what the finished garment measurements are going to be so that's just for if you
are looking for what the measurements are going to be you don't really need to transfer
this to your fabric.
If we scoot this up we have our lengthening and stitching line you do not need to transfer
these lines to your fabric, again look here is another symbol right here so because of
the placement of this they didn't mark it but I am going to say this is for the hipline
and here is the finished garment measurements for the hipline area so that's why that's
there, you don't need to transfer this. Sometime you will actually get marks like
there are lines like this one, this is placement line, now this is something I would definitely
mark on my fabric only because this is probably going to come in handy later for when we need
to place something maybe and ruffle needs to go here or sometimes you have placement
marks for pockets if there is placement anything transfer the marks. Now this one is a little
bit different, we have a series of lines here but there are four different sizes. So you
just need to find your size, let's just say I am doing a size ten and I would only
need to do this line here so you don't need to do all four lines in this particular case.
Let's take a look at another example, sometimes like a piece like this you don't have a
lot of marks that you need to transfer which is nice. So if we look at this right away
I see this and again we don't need to transfer this mark, this is for a finished garment
size right here. Also we don't need to transfer any grainline marks and any other of these
size lines you don't need to transfer but right here this is a good one. So these squares
we need to transfer but you only need to do it for your size, unless there is just a single
one and there is no number next to it that means it's for all sizes so you can see I
cutout size number ten so I will just need to do this one right here and you definitely
want to try to be as accurate as possible because these marks are about the placement
of things and you definitely want to make sure that things match up together.
If we look over here we have the center front so they just drew a line where the center
front is going to be. You don't really need to draw these on to your fabric, the center
front line or the waistline or anything like that, but since this has a circle connected
to it I would go ahead and at least do this circle. Again there is no size next to it
so that means it would be for all sizes.
On this pattern you can see I have some dots, there is no sizes next to them so that means
it's going to be for all sizes so I definitely would mark these and I have the big one right
here. Now you will see these dash line, this actually goes pretty much all the way around
my pattern piece and it's pretty consistent, I am not going to transfer this line here
because I think all they are doing is just indicating where the seam allowance is going
to be so I don't have to worry about that but these dots definitely I am going to do,
let me just move this here because I have another very important mark.
Pleats, these yes you definitely want to transfer these because we are going to be making some
pleats in our purse here so I would, you can just do the circles if you want but I also
just like to draw the lines because it really does come in handy later. So any type of dots,
placement lines, fold lines that kind of thing you are going to want to transfer here again,
I have another pleat line, this right here is a fold line so these are the type of things
that you are going to want to transfer to your fabric pieces.
There are many different things you can use in order to mark your fabric, definitely pickup
something in your local fabric or craft store because you want something that's going
to be appropriate for your fabric and that you will be able to remove later. The marks
that you make are just temporary, they are just for the sewing process but then after
you finish the garment you should be able to get rid of them. So you can see I have
a few different options here and I like to have the options because different fabrics
are probably going to need different things. If I am working with cotton then I could use
my blue marker which uses water in order in order to get rid of my marks but if I am using
something like satin that's dry clean only, I can't really use water because then I
will make it water spot so maybe in that particular case I am going to be using fabric chalk or
something like that where I can just rub it out, so you just want to consider these things
and how the fabric is going to be cared for and what you can use.
Also I like to have a few different color options because let's say I want to use my
white chalk but my fabric is light colored it's not going to show up very well or if
I have this dark one but my fabric is black that's not going to work well. So if I have
a few different color options it just makes it a little bit easier. So first what I am
going to do is just briefly go over these so again we have a fabric chalk or you can
also use beeswax, you can use a fabric pencil and then there are couple of different market
options so the blue one disappears with a damp cloth, the purple one disappears after
about forty eight hours, after a timeframe it will just vanish so you don't have to
worry about removing it.
I like using this one but if I am doing a long term program that's going to take me
several days this is not the color or pen to use because you will get to your project
and soon your marks will be gone. So in this particular case it might be better to use
this or to use a chalk or some other option. To make my marks with one of these I usually
like to make my marks with the dots or with my dots on the wrong side of the fabric, if
it's something like a fold, a fold line, a pleat then I make those on the right side
of my fabric or if it's some sort of placement line that goes on the right side. So what
I like to do is I will take a straight pin that I have, I will put it through what I
need to transfer, right through it, flip it over to the wrong side, let me just move these
out of the way and then I just mark it where the straight pin is coming out of the fabric,
remove that pin and make it's a little bit darker so there would be one mark and then
I would do the same thing and this one over here so it's very easy. The only thing you
have to remember is if this is a particular pattern piece where you had to cut two of
them then you would have to do them for both or if it's folded because you cut it on the
fold line so it's folded in half you would have to do it for both sides.
Another option for transfer your marks is using a tracing wheel and transfer paper,
so I have two different options here you are going to get the smooth wheel, tracing wheel
or you can get the serrated one, I actually like using the serrated one best but you can
use either one that you want then you are going to need some transfer paper and it's
kind of like carbon paper, you can pick this up at the fabric store and you can usually
get a pack with different colors in it. You will see one side is lighter than the other
side so this is the wrong side, this side has the transfer material on it so this is
the side that you want to be next to the fabric that you need marked so I have it right side
facing up, my fabric is going to go right next to it and then I have my pattern side
facing up. So all you are going to do is you are just going to use your tracing wheel and
you are going to press the area that you need have marked so this transfer material is going
to pop up on to your fabric. You just need to make sure that you press pretty hard or
else it will be really, really light. So if you are doing straight lines like this sometimes
it's easier just use the tracing wheel and the transfer papers so then you can do it
a lot faster than just trying to use the straight pin and the chalk method.
So we will just get a little closer so I will be able to show you what it looks like when
I am done. All right, so this is what my fabric looks like after using the transfer paper
and you can see if I didn't press hard enough it comes off very, very thin so you definitely
want to apply enough pressure so you can see it. Ones you want to get rid of your marks
all you need to do is just erase it with like a pencil eraser, but I would definitely test
it on a scrap piece of fabric to make sure that you are able to get it off okay and it
looks okay that way if you need to decide to use an alternative method for marking your
fabric you can make that decision before you go ahead and mark all your fabric pieces but
ones everything is marked and you have transferred all your marks from your pattern pieces to
your fabric pieces you can then move on to start creating your project.
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