Pin-up models, past and present, have faced a mixed reception, riding the line between
pop art and erotica. From bicycle girls to today's alt models, this is the untold truth
about being a pin-up model.
What's the origin of the term "pin-up?" Starting in the mid-19th century,
burlesque performers participated in variety shows in which they performed on-stage acting,
dancing, and singing. These shows heated up over the decades. Eventually,
they transformed into the first stripteases, although performers remained partially clothed
throughout. To excite professional interest, burlesque performers included scantily clad
or even nude photos on their business cards. In her book Pin-Up Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality,
Popular Culture, Maria Elena Buszek explains how the performers "pinned" these cards in
green rooms or tucked them in the frames of mirrors. Not only did this tradition give
birth to the term "pin-up," but it provided many of the poses used in later images.
These sexy pics also garnered another name: "cheesecake." The slang was a publicly acceptable
term for semi-nude and nude pictures of women in the early- to mid-20th century.
It started with a photo of a "Russian diva" named Elvira Amazar snapped by George Miller in 1915.
After seeing the image, an editor in New York declared, "Why, this is better than cheesecake!"
The rest was history. Of course, women aren't the only ones featured in sexy imagery. Male
pin-ups also exist, first enjoying popularity in the 1940s and becoming known as beefcakes.
Beefcakes have sold countless calendars, featuring everything from shirtless farmers to firefighters
and even sexy priests.
Whether scantily clad or nude, pin-ups excel at leaving something to the imagination. They
also understand that just about any activity can appear sensual. Images from daily life showcasing
overt flirtation or domesticity often feature prominently in pin-up art. Presumably, scenes of
domesticity provided comfort to homesick soldiers who consumed these images during both World Wars.
During World War I, racy postcards of Miss Fernande circulated in the trenches.
Born in the 1890s, Miss Fernande left few clues about her early life. But French photographer Jean
Agélou snapped her semi-nude and nude photos in the 1910s and the 1920s. The American government
also got in on the pin-up craze, with the Division of Pictorial Publicity created in 1917.
The division crafted propaganda to support the war effort, including sexy pictures and
artwork for the troops. What did all of these images have in common? The art of the tease.
Soldiers even received free pin-up images during World War II to keep up morale. And World War II
saw the most prominent pin-up images painted on the noses of bombers. Playboy magazine launched in
1953 to great success, and founder Hugh Heffner modeled his publication on pin-up girl art.
A veteran of World War II, Heffner understood the appeal of pin-up models and the tease.
From their scarlet lips to
their wasp waists, pin-up girls have long been purveyors of the American dream girl.
For men in the trenches of World War I or bomber planes of World War II, pin-ups represented
symbols of what they fought for. As the pin-up art expert Louis K. Meisel, put it: "These were
the girls that the boys who fought in World War II and the Korean War came back to marry."
"It'll be like doing time in the brig till we hear from ya."
"I don't know what you mean, but it sounds awful nice."
It's no coincidence that the most successful pin-up girls learned to walk the line between
innocence, grace, and sensuality with ease. But pin-up culture hasn't remained locked in a
time capsule. Although men once devoured images of wholesome, innocent, and naïve women who incited
lust without acknowledging it, today's crowd is attracted to a different vision of femininity.
Today's pin-ups are resourceful, tough, and intelligent, like Milla Jovovich,
Kate Beckinsale, and Angelina Jolie. Although perhaps counterintuitive, many
pin-up models report that modeling has helped them overcome body image struggles. Today's standards
of beauty prove more inclusive, with women of every shape and size represented. The same goes
for those boasting tattoos and piercings.
Pin-up girls come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, but it wasn't always that way.
In the 1940s and 1950s, some racist photographers refused to work with black pin-up models.
They claimed the girls proved less photogenic. Fortunately, now pin-up models of all races
are represented in the vintage fashion world. What kinds of lived experiences do black pin-up
models report? Lady Eccentrick has said that she found that the vintage scene was less prejudiced
than most of society. She thinks that maybe her debut came at the right time — when society
was becoming more accepting. Alternately, her ethnic diversity may have simply been embraced.
Either way, she feels like it has been nothing but love. What does she attribute her success to?
Hard work, education in the field, and staying true to herself.
Asian models have faced challenges working in the vintage fashion sphere. Depending
on where they live, getting vintage clothing can prove difficult. They often have to fight
against harmful stereotypes such as the notion that pin-up is for Caucasian women alone. Yet,
success is still possible. According to Miss Lilly Laurent, her experience of being an Asian American
pin-up girl has been surprisingly rewarding. She says she never set out to be a pin-up girl.
She always considered herself a geeky, shy, and awkward kid. She attributes her presence on social
media to her success in the pin-up community.
Despite its military origins, pin-up art isn't for the male gaze alone.
Women appreciate and even emulate pin-up girl fashion. Maria Elena Buszak argues that:
"From its birth, the pinup has served as an image that pointedly eliminates the explicit
representation of a sexual act by eliminating the presence of men (and generally, other women)
and strategically covering the genital area." Pin-up images also represent a celebration of
feminine beauty and allure. Many models see this as primary to their obsession with the art form.
Indeed, many of the primary connoisseurs of pin-up art today are women. Three of the most
talented artists of the pin-up Golden Age were women: Joyce Ballantyne, Pearl Frush, and Zoe
Mozert. They helped set an exclusive standard of beauty as pin-up artists. Joyce Ballantyne and Zoe
Mozert even used themselves as models, arguing no man could know the female form like a woman.
These women proved trailblazers in a male-dominated arena. They actively shaped
their masterpieces, and Louis K. Meisel argues the feminine gaze is easily recognized in their work.
He explains that female artists portray very beautiful, idealized women. And that the images
are less erotic. Like these female artists, today's pin-up girls control their identities
and how they get represented.
Many people have misconceptions about what it's like to be a pin-up model. It's far less
glamorous than most think. It comes with wardrobe mishaps, less-than-stellar photoshoot conditions,
and more. Model Angela Fernot discusses enduring bitterly cold weather for one
photoshoot where she wore little more than a bikini top, shorts, and stilettos.
Besides enduring freezing temperatures, Fernot has also dealt with plenty of reactions from those
who find out she's a pin-up model. These include everything from admiration to disdain. She writes:
"In my experience, there are two types of reactions ... They either love it or they hate
it. It is ALWAYS a very strong reaction one way or another, with arguments they follow either side."
Another pin-up model, Micheline Pitt, spends time debunking the so-called glamor associated
with working in the pin-up industry on her blog Pinup Girl Style. She argues that pin-up
models are all as guilty of giving admirers an idea of this glamorous lifestyle. In reality,
she thinks the truth is far from it. For example, she explains that maintaining a day job is
necessary for the vast majority of models. As a result, the vintage fashion lifestyle remains a
constant work-life balance challenge.
Anyone can pursue pin-up or alternative modeling, and the same goes for those interested in becoming
burlesque performers. But you need to invest serious time, dedication, and work into carving
out a niche. What does it take to make it in this field? Forging a successful career requires
persistence and long-term dedication. It's not something that's going to happen overnight.
"That's Maxie. You can learn from her. She knows all about the three essentials:
clothes, pose, and expression." Pin-up models also know how to get the look,
whether a signature pose, tattoo, beauty mark, or hair color. The best pin-up girls build a
niche around what makes them unique. Pin-up girls also realize how important studying the
history of the genre is. That way, they have a firm grasp of the best poses to use and the
looks they wish to cultivate. Experienced models recommend finding a pin-up or alt model to emulate
and then studying how she became successful. That way, young models can capitalize on the
lessons already learned by their predecessors. Alt and pin-up girl models must also prove adept
at doing their own hair and makeup. And they need to build a stellar collection of
beautiful vintage clothing by cultivating a love of the cuts of the dresses, the flowing fabrics,
the high heels. Pin-up gurus also urge potential models to cultivate a strong sense of self-worth
and confidence, two qualities that the best models possess in droves.
Micheline Pitt says that
pin-up models also invest significant cash into their careers. In 2012, she created a list of
pin-up model expenses. They include $125 or more for hair and makeup and $250 to $450
for an excellent professional photographer. Those who know people in the biz might be
able to get a discount on hair, makeup, or photography. But the best models know these
are areas where they shouldn't skimp when establishing a modeling career. Pin-up and
alt modeling come with a startup investment of between $375 and $575 at a bare minimum,
according to Pitt. Between 2012 and 2021, inflation led to a cumulative price increase of
18.34%, in 2013 dollars. With this accounted for, that's a startup price of between $445 and $680.
Shelling out money for vintage clothing also means this hobby requires serious budgeting.
For this reason, some pin-up models even sew their own clothes. According to Miss Monmon,
venturing into the DIY pin-up girl universe doesn't have to be complicated.
Dedicated pin-up models have some serious sewing time under their belts, and they can gain
access to a wide variety of patterns online to help them get their vintage fashion fix on.
When you hear the term "pin-up
girl," who comes to mind? Many people think of Bettie Page, the "Queen of the Pin-ups," and Dita
Von Teese. These two iconic women proved wildly successful, but they also represent exceptions
to the rule. Dita Von Teese has done everything from burlesque to exotic dancing and adult movies.
Nevertheless, for some, her biggest claim to fame was marrying Marilyn Manson.
As for Bettie Page? While she enjoys immortality as a pop culture icon, the real-life woman lived
a less-than-idyllic life. She started modeling at age 27 and quit seven years later when she
decided that she was getting too old. After her modeling career ended, she suffered from mental
illness and had several failed marriages. She vanished entirely from the spotlight, refusing
to let photographers take her picture. She wanted the public to remember her at the height of her
beauty. But remarkably, she made one final appearance at the 50th anniversary of Playboy
in December 2003, entering with Anna Nicole Smith. Nevertheless, Page set a high standard to follow.
She embraced everything that a pin-up girl could be. Hugh
Heffner described Bettie Page's appeal as: "A combination of wholesome innocence and
fetish-oriented poses that is at once retro and very modern."
And Page even has a planet named after her: 184784 Bettiepage, a testimony to her stellar fame.
Pin-up models often work for
pennies if not for free. They do it for the love of the art rather than a desire to become rich.
Micheline Pitt sets the record straight when it comes to earnings as a pin-up model:
"I do not model for a living, I do not, nor have I EVER made any real money to survive for a living
to pay my bills as a model. I have NEVER been paid for a magazine cover or article. That is correct,
you read that right, NEVER PAID, NO REAL MONEY." Her message couldn't get more straightforward.
That said, she does go on to clarify that she has received modeling compensation.
But this compensation doesn't begin to cover the costs associated with staying in tip top
shape to keep getting work. She estimates being a minimum of $1,000 in the hole for
her modeling career. But she also has no regrets and loves the life she leads.
Many people go into debt for their hobbies. Hunters and fishers spend thousands on gear,
and the same goes for classic car lovers and art collectors. But pin-up models go in realizing that
their hobby isn't going to make them rich or famous. Angela Fernot echoes Pitt's sentiment,
noting that she loves being a model. She gets great joy seeing a man pick up a metal sign or
a calendar that has her picture on it.
The best pin-up models understand that perception matters, and they pursue this field because they
love it. They have control over how they're seen and what image they ultimately wish to cultivate.
Angela Fernot articulates it well when she explains that almost everyone wants to be
noticed or recognized. For her, pin-up is just one of the ways she chooses to do it.
She likes to play a role that’s sexy, revealing, and more provocative than her real life.
The vintage fashion sphere also places a strong emphasis on differentiation and
being one's self rather than trying to conform to a pre-set mold. Sure,
the girls might pose in 1950s garb, but many have a tattoo sleeve or two to accompany it.
Pin-up culture doesn’t have an age limit. It embraces diversity and individuality.
And it’s this inclusivity that is used to argue that pin-up fashion is truly feminist.
But what about those individuals that decry objectification? Pin-up girls,
by their very career choices, acknowledge the subject is far from a black-and-white issue.
Instead, human sexuality is a nuanced topic based on lived experiences.
In her book Erotic Faculties, Joanna Frueh offers a simple solution to the controversy, arguing:
"As long as I am an erotic subject, I am not averse to being an erotic object."
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