How would you like to go on a round day trip of
stunning scenery from Fort William to Skye by road and back by ferry
visiting key sites of Jacobite history along the way?
We re going to Highbridge, then along Loch Lochy to Invergary Castle,
round by Loch Cluanie to the site of the Battle of Glensheil.
Of course we ll stop off at Eilean Donnan Castle, which is not to be missed,
before heading over the bridge to Skye for a taste of where Armadale
Caslte and Gardens fit into Jacobite history. Then a ferry back to the mainland and Glenfinnan
So, if you re interested in the people places and events in Scottish history
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In the meantime, let me take you on a journey A short fifteen minute drive from Fort William
is where we start our day. It s also where the 1745 Jacobites started their uprising.
Now I know you maybe think that the start of the 45 was Bonnie Prince
Charlie raising his standard at Glenfinnan, where there s a National Trust for Scotland
car park and caf to prove the point, but the events actually started here.
This is the memorial cairn that commemorates the events
...just over there is the high Bridge There s actually a path down there,
but it s pretty overgrown these days ...so make sure and bring a drone
When the Hanovarian government realised that Charles Stewart was in town
soldiers all over Scotland were activated. Around a hundred Royal Scots from Fort Augustus
came marching down the Great glen towards Fort William.
Isn t it interesting how nowadays we talk about these places as towns rather than garrisons
unless you speak Gaelic As they came down towards what
they would have called Highbridge, but the locals would have called
An Drochaid Bhan they might have thought they were nearly there...
but they were still in hostile territory. Macdonell of Keppoch had heard about their
movements, but he had no army to bar their way. He had thirteen men.
They hid behind an inn on this side of the bridge.
As they saw the red coated soldiers approaching the piper struck up
and the thirteen men rushed form behind the pub
screaming battle cries and darting from tree to tree.
The government troops didn t know what was going on.
Where were they? How many were there? And who was playing that bloody music
The captain of the Royal Scots told his sergeant and a servant to advance across
the bridge to find out how strong the force was. The sergeant saw the brown runny stuff dribbling
down his servant s leg and said: The Force was strong with him
The Jacobites let them cross the bridge, but when they reached this side
MacDonell's men jumped out on them and dragged them away.
Now ALL the soldiers on the other side were feeling the force
and the officers started arguing about whether to attempt the crossing or retreat
all the way back to Fort Augustus. Quickly they decided to leg it.
MacDonell told his clansmen to follow them, but keep enough distance so the soldiers
wouldn t realise how small their number By the time the Royal Scots had run five or six
miles down the road we re going to take next the Jacobite numbers had been swelled
by some Camerons and more MacDonalds. They were now only outnumbered two to one.
Now they started shooting at the redcoats, who fired back indiscriminately into the hills.
At the head of Loch Lochy the troops found their way blocked by another 50 Jacobites
under Glengary, ...and Captain Scott was injured MacDonel of Keppoch drew his sword and made bold,
but solitary footsteps towards the Royal Scots. He called out for them to lay down their arms...
and they did. That s how the 45
uprising started before Bonie Prince Charlie ever raised his standard at Glenfinnan.
It s worth pointing out that the way these Jacobites treated their prisoners
was in stark contrast to the way they were treated after Culloden.
The High Bridge, the Drochaitch Bhan isn t there any more,
so we ll drive round by Spean Bridge before retracing the road on which
the redcoats came and went. It s a stunning, awe inspiring
drive along the shores of Loch Lochy. Big water and beautiful mountains.
This wasn t only the road taken by retreating redcoats.
It was also the road taken by Bonnie Prince Charlie and his men.
When they marched south, they skirted round here to avoid Fort William.
He stopped for the night at Invergary Castle. The castle is a ruin now, but you can pop in to
see the remains that stand in the grounds of what s now Glengary Castle Hotel.
I should say that Bonnie Prince Charlie s men never did have that early engagement
with General Cope s troops, but is it too early to engage
in a cup of coffee in the hotel here? I ve housed tour clients there and it
s a lovely hotel with log fires and stunning grounds leading down to stroll by Loch Oich...
lovely. We don t have time right now,
because I ve got more to show you, as I head along Loch Gary,
round Loch Loyne and Loch Cluanie and beyond to our next historic site.
As you drive along the A87 as I ve done lots of times, it s often easy to forget
that there s a Jacobite battle site here too. Even if folk see the white crossed swords on
a brown background telling you of the Battle of Glensheil most will think nothing of it.
Yet this was the location of a battle that was both local AND international.
In 1717 an Anglo French alliance meant that James VIII court in exile had to move to Spain.
This led to a tag team matchup between the Jacobites and the Spanish.
On 19th March 1719 an armada headed out of Cadiz.
Most of them were heading to invade the south of England,
but two frigates came north from San Sebastian with Jacobite
leaders, Spanish troops, money and arms to hook up with highland clansmen.
Whilst the big fleet got caught up in storms, the frigates made it north.
As a thousand clansmen headed through this glen towards Inverness
British troops marched west from Fort Augustus...
and the clash came above us here in the mountains overlooking Glen Sheil
Today it seems far too beautiful for a battle But on 10th June 1719 you would have found
Jacobites posted across the mouth of the glen, MacKenzies, Murrays and MacRaes.
Spanish forces were positioned high on the surrounding hillside, looking down.
Rob Roy and his MacGregors waited on the northern hillside ready for counter-attack.
At five o`clock in the evening the government troops commenced hostilities.
The battle went to and fro. Spaniards, who knew of the
disappointment of their countrymen to the south didn t have the stomach for the fight
and many of them were captured and taken prisoner, but Highland Jacobites fought on...,
Without the Spaniards they were just outnumbered and by nightfall
they knew they were beaten. And so, the Highlanders melted
into the darkness, carrying their wounded over the mountains.
Whilst most of the Spaniards surrendered, some brave men refused
and joined the Jacobites escaping into the mountains.
That s according to my mate Alejandro, Francisco de la Hoz McLaverty...
We just call him Sandy
Twelve miles up the Glen and through Loch Duich is the base for the 1719 Jacobite uprising.
Eilean Donan, The Island of Donan,
a 6th century Irish Saint, who came to Scotland around 580 AD.
These days, as well as being a popular wedding backdrop and film location
it s one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Highlands.
In those days is was a MacKenzie stronghold. From Iron age fort through
medieval religious site to frontier stronghold in conflict with Vikings.
From a 13th century castle to the scourge of James I.
Owned by MacKenzies, guarded by Macraes, attacked by Macdonalds
destroyed and rebuilt... not only has this castle
more film credits than most it has an intriguing history and outstanding beauty.
but it was the 1719 Jacobite uprising that saw it destroyed.
The Jacobites had used it as a supply base garrisoned by around 50 Spanish troops.
Three Royal Navy ships sailed up the west coast, weighed anchor in Loch Alsh
and pounded the castle from the sea for three days before storming the
island and blowing up the munitions stores. The current castle is a 1920s recreation,
but there s no doubt that it s one of the most stunning locations to stop for a coffee,
explore the rebuilt stronghold or just soak up the surroundings.
In my ittinerary I ve given you an hour to enjoy Eilean Donnan Castle,
but the time you spend here will vary depending on whether you just want to stop and catch the view
or you want to delve into the history and mystery of the castle itself.
But you can t hang about too long because we ve still to reach The Isle of Skye,
crossing a bridge that caused almost as much controversy as
the Jacobite uprisings themselves. You can still take a ferry across the
Kyle from Glenelg, and I ll show you that on another road trip.
...but at the southern end of Skye you ll find the Calmac Ferry...
and the remains of Armadale Castle, the seat of the MacDonald s of Sleat.
Today it s set in the most beautiful, peaceful and relaxing gardens,
but there s been upheaval here as well. If you go to the north of the island to
the Trotternish Peninsula you ll find the ruins of Duntulm,
that had been the seat of the MacDonald s of Sleat,
but by the 1670s they had built a tower and farmhouse here at Armadale.
Of course, this is a Jacobite road trip, So Donald Macdonald, 3rd Baronet of Sleat....
rose up with the first fight back against the Williamite usurpers.
His son, Donald lead their clansmen at the Battle of Killicrankie.
When the rising fizzled out, the new Government tried to strike a deal, but the chief refused.
That s when two frigates sailed into the bay to negotiate.
It culminated in them bombarding the chief's house and burning it to the ground.
Donald headed back North Skye and Duntulm Castle In 1703, they built a replacement house here.
It s where Flora MacDonald was married on 6 November 1750.
In between times young Donald the 4th Baronet had raised his clansmen in the 1715 uprising,
The 6th Baronet had also been a Jacobite at the Battle of Killiecrankie,
and led the Sleat men at the 1715 Battle of Sherrifmuir.
He stayed out of the 1719 uprising that we discussed at Glen Sheil.
A later Alexander MacDonald tried to sell some of his
clanspeople into indentured servitude and in order to show gratitude to the Hanovarian
regime for forgiving those past indiscretions... stayed out of the 45 uprising.
They were characters
The mansion house that remains was built in the late 18th century,
followed by the castle in 1815. Sadly it s now in ruins....
The rebuilding after the 1855 fire couldn t hold back the ravages of the 20th century
But there s way more history than that to be enjoyed here.
There s also 40 acres of woodland and gardens. Take a picnic. Feel the tranquillity,
then take a step into the into the Clan Donald Museum
to discover the history of the biggest clan of them all.
There are artifacts, there are displays, you can feel like you were with Somerled,
as he fought in those battles back in the day. You can feel like you were one of the emigres,
leaving the lands on which they d lived for generation and generation.
You can experience the changes that went on to Clan Donald down the centuries and
go away a little bit wiser. A half hour ferry takes
you back to the mainland, but whilst we re on this ferry,
let me tell you about a ferry that I ll be taking in September...
because I ll be doing my live show Stories of Scotland at The Beacon Arts
Centre in Greenock on 1st September before taking a ferry over to do the
show in Dunoon Burgh Halls on the 2nd. Click the link top right for tickets or,
as always click the link in the description below for details of all tour dates and tickets.
We re on the way back to Fort William, but it s worth a stop for just a moment
Fifteen minutes from the ferry at Mallaig, you can look out to a view like that,
and there s a cairn. A cairn that tells you
that this was the last view seen by Bonnie Prince Charlie on the Scottish mainland.
From this shoreline he took ship to France.
Such a beautiful sight. It s a view that makes you want to linger...
but not too long... else you start to think of the horrors that he was leaving in his wake.
The year of the prince was over. Nothing was going to be the same again.
...but let s go for one more stop
Today many people who come here come to see or journey on the Jacobite train crosses the viaduct.
More Harry Potter re-enactment than Hanovarian rebel.... but
but back here on 19th August 1745 was one of the most eventful days in Scottish,
indeed British history. Bonnie Prince Charlie
had sent out the call to gather here. This is where he would raise his standard.
This is where the fight back to reclaim the rightful Stuart throne would begin.
The story goes that he sat for hours in a hut gradually becoming more and more depressed
at the lack of response. He d avoided capture on the
channel, landed in the Hebrides, made it to the mainland, but now
the rising was over before it had even started Then, at around four o`clock in the afternoon,
he heard noise from outside. He left the building to see what it was
In the distance high on the hillside he could hear the faint sound of bagpipes.
Slowly the music became louder. The sound grew closer.
Gradually the realisation dawned that the bagpipes were playing for him.
His eyes scanned the hillside. Was that movement?
It WAS. It was Cameron of Lochiel with
his Cameron Highlanders. YA DANCER!
Hold on, they were coming in two directions...
east from Loch Eil AND down Glen Finnan from Loch Arkaig.
Get it right up ye ya Hanovarian Johnny lobsters!
There was even a group who had come from further east still,
from Rannoch, living on the lands of Menzies and Robertson... but Camerons none the less.
Some of their kinsmen from further west here had gone down and encouraged them to join up.
At the head of one of the groups of Camerons was one Miss Jenny Cameron.
She was the daughter of Hugh Cameron of Glendessarry.
She probably just came to catch a glimpse of the Prince,
but as the first woman to openly show support, you can imagine that the Hanoverian propaganda
merchants gave her the full Meghan Markle treatment
The point is... the rising was on. William, Marquis of Tullibardine,
the exiled Murray who had been at Killikrankie, who had been at Glen Sheil, unfurled the banner
sewn by the ladies of Kinlochmoidart. There were 300 MacDonells of Keppoch
and 300 MacDonalds of Clanranald to add to the Camerons
1300 men in total. They headed east as we re going to.
Our road trip is coming to an end, but theirs was just starting. There s another historical
road trip video coming up on screen now. Hellp me bring you more of these by clicking
top right to become a Patreon member or buy me a coffee in