3d printed speakers we've done part one we've done part two this is not part three but we have to
get through this to get to part three and to get through this we got a lot to go through because
i'm gonna talk about this machine and the prints that it's doing so uh y'all baby let's do it
hey there welcome back yes this is a really really big bender 200 scale in fact before
we talk about this though and this machine right here i'm going to talk about some prints from it
um i'm going to give you kind of the the process that i've gone through in order to make the prints
the best they can be we're going to talk about this tiny speaker and then we're going to talk
about the last printed piece of the puzzle for the 3d printed speakers i think that's fun before
we do that though i'm gonna here is here is my view this is this is my my office and it's uh
i've got a light balanced on my cr-30 so you can see me that's amazing so what is
this machine this this here this is the project r3d daedalus and i know on stream we we talked
about different ways whether it was daedalus or dallas or it's the daedalus it is a large format
core xy fully built 3d printer that i believe is 300 by 300 by 345. i think those are the
dimensions i bought this because i wanted a large core xy machine i didn't want to
have to build it myself yet don't worry i've got plans to build one myself and i wanted to support
a good person and a good company joe at project r3d he's he's been a really good supporter of the
channel um i would consider him to be a good dude but also he's building something really awesome
here when i bought this i i talked about it i told him some of the issues i had and he's putting
together documentation but what's great is when i got this out of the box on that stream he said any
of the ones that were purchased during the stream he would give 300 to seattle children's hospital
so ended up buying one so they got a 300 donation which is incredible plus when i did that really
big massive giveaway he donated one of these as a prize it's awesome so this is a machine i bought
all all opinions are my own uh and i can tell you right now it's been a good machine to play
with and if you're ever interested there's a link in the description you can go to project r3d and
check it out yourself so before the tiny speaker before the big bender i started with this it's a
a bowl and it's got some issues it's stringy and the layers are inconsistent this was one of
the first prints i did with the machine and i used default settings it was sliced in prusa slicer and
it was uh printing way way way too fast i printed this in prusa slicer using the defaults which were
really really fast and while it can produce prints at that speed the problem is you
still have to tune it for each material and so it looks like this it can still hold stuff obviously
it's got holes in it so it's not going to hold water but it's a dish and i put my keys and my
my bits in it from from 3d printing and it's been it's been useful so even though it's not perfect i
did want to show off that not every print off this machine comes perfect and you do have to take your
time and so this as being a first print while it doesn't look perfect it still serves a purpose and
i'm really glad i still have it it's prusa slicer in atomic dark cherry red and it's 0.15 millimeter
layer height it's 209 c on the nozzle and 60c on the bed so why don't we talk about this big
bender right here i am a huge futurama fan and bender is one of my favorite characters shut up
baby i knew it i met the voice actor for bender john dimaggio and he's a legit good dude but he
he did the voice for me uh when i met him so that was a lot of fun but this is in atomic pla
deep black pla deep black prusa slicer was the slicer for this 0.15 millimeter layer
height 200 scale 215c on the nozzle and 60c on the bed and it came out beautiful one of
the things that i want to show you is that it is consistent right here from the feet and the legs
but also also have a look at the pattern so this this fur coat that bender is wearing just has
this texture to it and it feels amazing it's incredible like i'll do my best to cut try to
convey what it's like but i mean at the same time if you have a 3d printer printing something with
this texture will just blow your mind because it doesn't feel like a printed piece at that point
i really really love this model and uh 200 scale seem to be perfect it makes sense uh some of the
other models from this creator for futurama they just look weird in 3d vendors seem to look okay
and so that's why i printed them out i sent this out on twitter this is a mythic mug and this is
printed in the strong hero 3d metal x sparkling this was sliced in prusa's slicer it's 0.15
millimeter layer height it's 209c on the nozzle and 60c on the bed and this was using slightly
modified defaults i slowed the print speed down just slightly for this but for this to come out
this good especially with how little configuration i had to do it really blows my mind it's not that
it's an incredibly tough model to print but for it to look exceptionally good you have to have
very consistent extrusion all the way through plus right here this part this part right here it looks
great it's that perfect angle of of of geometry that allows the printer to print it and not have
to suffer from any problems with an overhang it's a beautiful model i mean even look at the bottom
this is what i use the pei sheet bottom looks good too but for this it's it's incredible it'll hold
a can of coke or something like that i'm really really happy with the way it turned out like this
is this is one of those things i thought about printing it out and and putting some some gold
on it or spraying it with a metallic or something like that but i love the look of this filament and
the way that the colors sort of broke right here and i'm just really really really happy with this
print next i tried some vase mode prints and this is a modern take on the christmas tree i believe
it was by herblinks this is filament 1 glint pla and this is some really really old polyalchemy
emerald city elixir so this was in spiral mode and i sliced this in idea maker i created an idea
maker profile for this machine because i wanted to see what the slicing engine could do and it did
did a really good job 0.2 millimeter layers 209c on the nozzle 60c on the bed uh this one this
one looks perfect like it's absolutely perfect you pick it up you look at it you're turning it around
and you're just looking at perf the perfection of a print i'm really really astonished at how
good this looks especially the tip and so part of tuning that profile was to slow down the printer
when the layers were small so said it's like a a minimal layer time i think that helped with
creating that point and that point is just perfect just perfect this one the material is old and
it's it's interesting the holly alchemy elixir material is just really interesting to print
with so it's i don't have terribly good layer bonding with this material
and when trying to get it off the build plate it's kind of
kind of split right there and that's no good you also see some inconsistencies kind of bright under
here where the model is and uh i mean it's okay as far as a christmas decoration goes it's wonderful
it's a green tree so it worked just fine but going by the technicality of the print it's not as good
as this one and it could be because the material is older it could also be because this requires
different settings which i don't think it does but anyway i have trees
one of the things i do want to talk about are the upgrades that have been done to this machine
one is that it had a pei over aluminum for a bed this now has
a magnetic bed so it is flexible um and it was flexible and i was using it was flexible
it was flexible steel with pei on top kind of looks like
looked like this but then wham bam sent over one of these this is a powder coated pei sheet
and i've been running this ever since this has really good adhesion and so i just kind
of slap it in make sure it's aligned and i'm good to go the other upgrade that happened was
the blower and the fan shroud so originally this is what the machine came with and it's
okay it's okay but it's a single fan mounted to this side and it's trying to get air
around to most sides of the nozzle it can't do it as effectively as other systems do and to be
honest with a machine like this you're built to print pretty quick so you have to have incredibly
optimal cooling in order to lay down that filament and cool it off once it's laid down this wasn't
doing the trick and it's evident in that clock spring dice dozer model that i showed off not so
long ago uh it's also it's also evident in these and so i now have an upgraded one uh project r3d
and they're sending this to every daedalus owner project r3d now has a dual fan design
for the shroud and it's incredible the way that it models the air under the nozzle it's just it's
perfectly pinpointed it's almost like a tornado under there it's hard to visualize i mean i can
show it to you and it looks cool but you know the proof is in the pudding right so what i did
is this is one that i initially printed this is one that was printed with this fan shroud and
this is atomic filament it's 0.15 millimeters it's you know 215c on the nozzle 60c on the bed it's
it's two perimeters 10 percent in fill it's just defaults right but you do see some issues
along the sword and along the hilt and underneath the elbow right there the problem is the machine
when printing this has to be slowed down considerably or have enough air blowing on it in
order to cool down that filament so what i did is i ran the same g-code after swapping out the fan
shroud and adding that second fan and sure enough it is better it's not perfect by any means because
again if i wanted to print this perfect i would have to slow down the print just a little bit just
for some of the minor things but if you look the sword is better it's not nearly as bad on the hilt
and the elbow looks pretty fantastic so i know that i have a better functioning machine now
which means i could do some really cool stuff i remember sending this out on twitter and these
are calibration cubes nothing really exciting but to be honest i was trying to get x y and z
dimensionality correct and these were close but adjusting the filament extrusion multiplier i was
able to get these down to 20 millimeters across x y and z and i measured that i showed it on twitter
and yes that my my calipers that i have here only go down to tenths and they don't go down
to hundredths but at the same time that's pretty good if i'm accurate to within tents
for a 3d print i'm pretty excited about that and so i keep these around just just to remind me of
what i was able to do i think it's time we talk about this so the 3d printed speaker project is
something that i've been trying to get done and so far you've seen these pieces we've seen the bottom
piece the first one was printed on the big printer in the garage and then the second one on the gmax2
these pieces right here these were both printed on the craftbot flow idex xl's at the studio
and this piece the face was printed on the big printer in the garage the last piece of the puzzle
is this thing this is the cap and the cap rests up here and kind of holds everything together
i believe it'll there we go so there's this piece the cap holds the the top of the face on
and um it's so tiny i might have to drill holes kind of set there we go so it just kind of it kind
of holds it together like that so the last piece of the puzzle was the cap and so what i did i used
some filament one and it's their glint pla and it is green and i printed the caps these are at 0.15
millimeters these were sliced in prusa slicer and these are 215c on the nozzle 60c
on the bed i actually used defaults for the speed because it wasn't complex geometry
but i want you i want you to take a look at these look at that surface finish this
these look fantastic uh the bottoms this was bridging this this right here is bridging and
it did a good job with it so i'm really really happy with it and with these pieces it means that
everything that needs to be 3d printed is done for the really big speaker project that we're
3d printing so next it's to get all the electronics together and get the drivers
installed hook it up to a sound system and hopefully play from sweet sweet music
oh and one more thing one more thing i've been teasing something on twitter
can you i can almost fit the whole thing in the frame almost let's see
so this was printed on the cr-30 no not the dead list this was printed the cr-30 and it's part of
a large light holder this is like six or seven hundred percent scale you know it's large um but
one of the things that i talked about was being able to take the support off while i was actually
printing let's see if i can't get some of it off here so i'll get the rest of the support out
another time because uh what i want to show you is this this was printed on my daedalus and this is a
cap it's not the best there are some problems i printed this at 0.3 millimeter layer height
and i hadn't really configured that i hadn't really got that going as well it's got some
bumps where it does uh layer changes so i think i need to play with my retraction settings a little
bit but these threads are supposed to match up with this and so why don't we see if it works
yeah now i just have to print another one of these and another one of these but it looks like i will
have a way of holding up a light in a really really cool way this is exciting well listen
if you made it this far you're awesome i really appreciate it i'm excited about what i've printed
on this thing and if you have any suggestions for other prints to use obviously leave those in the
comments down below don't forget to hug each other more be aggressively kind and as always high five