(snoring)
(harp music)
- Hi, it's Vince with ShamWow.
You'll be saying wow every time you use this towel.
It's like a chamois, it's like a towel,
it's like a sponge.
- John here from OpticianWorks.com.
You're gonna be saying wow every time
you use this lensmeter.
It's like a friend, it's like a coworker,
it's like an all-in-one toolbox.
Single vision?
Of course.
Line bi-focals?
Bring 'em on.
Progressives?
Go for it.
Hey, it even runs on batteries.
You can use this thing in your car.
Made in Japan, you know they make good stuff.
So act now.
(upbeat music)
Welcome to the first in our series
on Let's Learn How to use the Lensmeter.
Make sure you watch this all the way through to the end
for a special TV offer.
The Marco LM-101 is the most
common lensmeter in use in our industry today,
so it is vitally important that you know how to use it.
There're gonna be all kinds of things I'm saying
and talking about here,
you're not gonna have any idea what I'm talking about, none.
Don't worry about that.
Worry about learning the parts,
kind of watch what I'm doing, how I'm handling this,
and then we'll jump into the kits
and then we'll start really learning
the nuts and bolts pieces of how you work
with the lensmeter.
But first things first, baby steps, foundation, you know me.
One of the great things about the newest model
of the LM-101 is that it can be plugged in
or it can be run off of batteries.
To access the batteries, remove the four screws
on the bottom plate and you'll see where that
compartment is to load up your two D batteries.
Okay, we've decided on which power source we're gonna use.
We're either gonna plug it in or we're gonna
run it off of batteries.
Regardless, the next thing we need to do, of course,
is turn on the lensmeter.
The on/off switch is located on the side here.
Just use it to turn the lensmeter on and off.
Next step is kind of setting the lensmeter up
for your own personal use.
The first step in that is using this,
which is the Position-Locking Lever.
And obviously, it does just that,
it allows you to adjust this
so that it's comfortable for you to use.
You might be tall, you might be short,
you might be sitting, you might be standing.
Find a spot that's right for you
and then lock it down.
Now I need to set it up for my individual eyesight.
There are some very specific steps involved here
that you're going to want to memorize.
Because if you don't do these before you go jumping into
verification or layout work during any practical exam,
you're not going to pass, so pay attention to this.
You start to focus a lensmeter for individual use by
having it turned off.
I take a sheet of white paper and I rest it against
this point right here, which is the Lens Stop.
The Lens Stop is kind of the
most important place on a lensmeter.
It's actually the point from which all of the
measurements are made.
The other thing I'm gonna be adjusting when I'm doing
my setup for my individual eyesight is the Power Drum.
The Power Drum is an old-fashioned number line
put on a wheel.
You don't read prescriptions off the drum.
You read the powers off the drum
and then you use those numbers
to calculate the prescription.
Don't worry, we'll get into that in coming lessons.
But for now, this is the Power Drum.
There's a Power Drum Index.
Your plus numbers are shown in black,
your minus numbers are shown in red.
The LM-101 is kinda unique in that it has a
power adjustment for your left-hand person
and your right-hand person, too.
Place your white sheet of paper against the Lens Stop.
All it does is push some light up into here,
which is the eyepiece,
and the eyepiece is made up of four individual items.
The outermost one is this, it's the Eyecup,
and the Eyecup is this soft rubber ring.
It blocks light from entering the tube
so that I can see things inside a little bit clearer.
It protects the outermost lens of the eyepiece
against damage and, of course, if you wear glasses
it keeps your glasses front surface
from hitting the outside of this,
which is the Individual Adjustment knob.
And we're gonna talk about that in just a second.
Other pieces that make up this tube
are the Chrome Knurled Sleeve, which, if nothing else,
is a really cool name.
What this does is control what's called the reticle,
and the reticle is something you see when you look
inside the instrument.
There's a picture of it and we'll talk about how you
use that in a whole lot more depth when we get to
how you actually work with the lensmeter.
The last piece that makes up the eyepiece,
or the eyepiece tube, is the PCD,
or the Prism Compensation Device.
And this is used in a couple of different ways.
We'll cover those in the how to use section
rather than this overview.
So what we're doing right now is
adjusting the lensmeter for individual use.
I have rested my piece of paper against my Lens Stop.
I am going to take my Individual Focus knob, or Focus Ring,
and I am going to wind it full counter-clockwise
out until it stops.
I am gonna look inside with my eye resting
against that Eyecup and I'm gonna slowly
turn this clockwise
until the reticle inside is
nice, crisp, and clear.
I like using the one Prism Indicator.
I'm not rocking, I'm only turning clockwise.
Once that's sharp, I can remove my sheet of white paper.
I can turn the lensmeter on.
I take my Power Drum and I rotate it into the high plus.
I just threw it up around plus seven.
I'm gonna look inside and I'm gonna slowly turn
my Power Drum away from me until my sphere lines
and my cylinder lines are crisp and sharp.
Again, no rocking, just like this.
I'm only turning it away from me.
Once I'm sharp inside and I look down at my Power Drum,
I look at my Power Drum Index and what do I have?
I have a perfect zero.
If I have a perfect zero, that means that the instrument
is, in fact, now adjusted for my eyesight.
If it's a quarter plus, a quarter minus,
try it again.
Try it without your glasses, and you may just simply
have a situation where you're always gonna be
a quarter strong or a quarter weak.
Just make sure that you account for that
and don't go rejecting work that is actually perfectly okay.
I just got a job here for Mr. Roth, he's waiting.
I've got these lenses in stock.
I'm gonna lay these out so I can finish them,
pop them into a frame, and send Mr. Roth on his way.
We're gonna start learning a few new parts here,
so pay attention.
This particular lens is a plus 225,
minus 25 at 90.
So in order to start this setup, I'm gonna turn
my Power Drum to
plus 225,
I'm gonna rotate my Axis Wheel,
which we will look at in-depth in upcoming lessons, to 90.
I'm going to rest my lens against the Lens Stop
that we're familiar with.
But now we're introducing a new item.
This is the Lens Holder.
This is the Gimbal.
And this is the Lens Holder Handle.
You're going to want to practice using this.
I think the best technique is the
thumb up here and the finger down here.
You don't want this slamming into the lens.
You might damage the lens, you might damage the Lens Stop,
you might damage the Gimbal.
Get a lens that doesn't matter so much
and just practice how that feels so you get the hang of it.
The Gimbal is just a unique device that allows
movement in multiple directions.
It has a rubber ring on the front, so it kinda
grabs the front of the lens.
They do wear out over time so if it does get dried out,
replace it and the lens will be held in place
much better again.
I forgot to mention that the Lens Stop is also
something that can be replaced, should it become damaged.
So what I would do is I would take my Lens Holder Lever,
I would release my Lens Holder
against the front of the lens.
The Gimbal holds it in place against the Lens Stop.
I'm already on axis, I'm on power.
The next part is the Marking Pen Lever.
This controls the Marking Pens.
The marking pens are a set of three
pre-inked pens that
place three dots on the front of the lens.
The center dot locates your optical center
when you've done everything right here.
The two outer dots act as orientation or reference points
so that the lens stays in the correct position
throughout the entire finishing process.
Okay, I think we just have a few items left to go here.
One of them is the Filter Switch.
If you move this,
what you see inside when you're
looking into the eyepiece changes.
One setting is a dark green, green-yellow.
The other is a white, white-orange.
And you'll find that certain lenses that are
really heavily tinted, certain polarized lenses,
sometimes you can see the reticle in your target
and work with things a little bit easier with
one setting or the other.
Last thing that's left after that is the Spectacle Table.
The Spectacle Table is controlled by this,
which is the Spectacle Table Lever.
And what it's used for is, let's say I'm checking
this job in, it came back from the lab and
I'm making sure that the power's right in it
and everything is lined up good.
What the Spectacle Table does is assure that
both eye wires are resting on the same plane.
Because of this Spectacle Table being in the
perfect plane and alignment with the rest of the instrument,
if I rotate this, change this,
move this from right to left,
everything stays in the proper position to make sure
that what I'm seeing is what I'm reading
and that I'm passing or failing a job
against a set of standards.
This particular Spectacle Table does have a scale with it.
Most lensmeters don't even have one anymore.
Some people do use it as a rough gauge for
centering blanks or a rough idea of height,
but it's not really accurate enough
to use it for pass-fail criteria.
Alright, I think we have a good idea now what
the parts make up the lensmeter.
Now we can actually get into the real nuts and bolts
of how we use it.
That's when we're gonna break out our
learn the lensmeter'kit.
Act within the next 20 minutes.
Come on, we can't do this all day.
We'll throw in free shipping.
Here's how to order.
- (Voiceover) Visit OpticianWorks.com.
That's OpticianWorks.com.
OpticianWorks is not available in stores
and is made in the U.S.A.
Beware of OpticianWorks imitators.
Visit OpticianWorks.com.
That's OpticianWorks.com.
Visit now.