I need to understand these ancient sports
not just because they're popular,
but because they reflect the kind of values
that the Japanese themselves hold dear.
Though it won't be easy when it comes to sumo.
They don't think much of women around here.
The rules are quite straightforward:
A player loses if he steps out of bounds
or if any part of his body -
except his feet -
touches the ground.
Pushing works.
So does pulling -
provided you don't step out yourself.
Slapping's legal
but no eye gouging,
hair pulling,
or closed fists.
It all comes down to balance
Though I'm told there are a few tricks.
You get leverage
by grabbing your opponent's loin cloth.
Don't worry - it's not likely to come off.
They tie it on pretty tight
and if it should work loose
then its owner loses automatically.
That just can't be comfortable.
Nor can this.
But sumo wrestlers don't have much choice.
Unlike in judo or wrestling,
there are no weight categories in sumo
so size is a definite advantage.
But clearly not all that extra bulk is fat.
Strength training is a big part of their daily routine.
Though mostly they practice Shiko -
stomping.
It develops balance,
flexibility,
and strong thighs.
It also stamps out bad luck.
They're supposed to do it 500 times a day.
And they stretch.
At least most of them do.
They tell me that it's essential to prevent injuries
when to human mountains collide
head on
several dozen times a day.
The only thing a sumo wrestler seems to be lacking as an athlete
is endurance.
Most matches last less than 30 seconds
so if they don't win quickly
they tend to run out of steam.
But they certainly have discipline.
I can't imagine having to do this seven days a week.
And most wrestlers sign on
at the tender age of 15.
Once inside the stable
they get up at 5 a.m. each day to train
and won't eat breakfast until well into the afternoon.
It's a dirty, sweaty, sport
and they're at the mercy of the higher ranks
who drive them relentlessly
and criticize their every move.
I can't help wondering why they do it.
Most, they tell me, are from the countryside.
This may be their best way out of rural life -
a chance at fame and fortune -
if they win.
But I think there's more to it than that.
The very lifestyle that sets them apart from the rest of us
binds them together in a close-knit fraternity.
And they are living the stuff of legends.
Sumo's roots are deeply embedded in both religion and Japanese history.
The sport is 2,000 years old.
Every inch of the arena is scrubbed daily
and women are still forbidden to touch the sacred clay.
While the apprentices finish up their chores -
carefully supervised
the elders get their hair done
in strict order of seniority.
They use a special oil
and set it in a special sumo style
similar to what the samurai used to wear
in the 17th century.
The apprentices aren't allowed to bathe
until their elders have been attended to.
But what we're all really waiting for is breakfast.
The first meal of the day
though by now it's afternoon.
It's chanko nabe
sumo stew
made with tofu, onions, cabbage, and chicken,
in a seaweed consomme.
I'm mortified to find out the guests get fed first.
It's sumo etiquette.
it's hard to even taste my food
while all those hungry giants
are waiting patiently for their meal.
When we've all finally finished
the first sumo wrestler digs in.
They have to put away an enormous amount of rice
in order to gain weight
despite all the exercise they get.
At least today's workout is over.
for the rest of the afternoon
they get to hang out
and rest.