- Finding the right tire pressure is a bit of a dark art,
you don't really know you've got it wrong
till it goes wrong.
It really does affect your grip, feel and speed.
So I'm going to try some different pressures today,
until I try and find the perfect numbers that suit me.
We're here in Finale Ligure, riding the Rollercoaster,
one of the most famous trails here.
Also one of the most well used trails.
It is lovely and up and down, but it gets
loads of people riding down it,
so there's lots of braking bumps, the stones.
All sorts things that will really affect my tires.
(relaxed music)
(logo whooshes)
Now let's start by saying this video
is going to be very specific to me.
Obviously, I hope this will help you find
your correct tire pressures, as well.
There's so many different factors
that go in to find those numbers
that they really can't be swapped between riders.
Rider weight.
Heavier riders and bikes will need tougher tires
or higher pressures.
Rider skill.
It doesn't mean that faster riders
will have to run higher pressures,
although sometimes they will.
They might be really fast and really smooth,
which means they don't really push their tires to the edge.
Slower riders can potentially run lower pressures
for maximum grip, but riders that make more mistakes
could end up hitting rocks or roots.
And that means if their run to lower pressure
they can risk ripping the tire or puncturing the tube.
Tubes or tubeless?
Sometimes you can get away with running
lower pressures in tubeless tires,
'cause there's no tube in there to pinch
or get a snakebite, we used to call 'em.
But I think above a certain threshold,
let's say 28 psi on the front, 30 in the back,
pretty high pressures,
I don't think you'll get away with running two psi less
because your own tubeless.
'Cause you're running your tires that hard for a reason.
It's probably 'cause you're really pushing into 'em.
Type of rider that maybe rolls a tire
and could potentially burp them.
Type of riding.
Could be cross country, marathon, trail riding,
enduro, downhill, bike packing.
So many different options here.
And it's not we go into performance, here,
where you might choose a tire pressure.
For example if you're going out on an epic bike packing trip
into the wilds of Canada, and you think,
"Well, I'll run low pressures,"
you could end up ripping a tire
and that gets you into trouble.
You're running out of spares, things like that.
But definitely, performance does come into it.
When we're talking about racing,
cross country riders really have to weigh up
the grip versus rolling resistance.
Actually, as do downhill racers.
So there's definitely a lot of experimentation
with those pro riders when it comes down to tire pressures.
Trail conditions, be it rocky, smooth, wet, dry,
clay or sand, there's so many different variables here.
You could find the perfect pressure of one trail
and then it gets dark, there's moisture on the track
or it rains, or you go right different a trail,
that sometimes you have to find happy medium
that works in the area that you ride.
Type of tire.
A super skinny, super lightweight tire
could be run at normal pressures,
even under a bigger rider, if you're riding smooth trails.
However, if you go to rocky trails,
that tire probably won't be up to the job.
So that's when you have to think about
how many ply a tire is.
So downhill tires, two ply.
So basically two sets of rubber, makes it super tough.
Talk about TPI, threads per inch.
I've done a video where I've visited
the Continental tire factory,
where I tell you a lot more about that.
But basically, I find easiest way of
working out how tough a tire is
is by looking at the weight of it.
If you're looking at a tire that weighs 1,300 grams
that's a big robust downhill tire.
Potentially down to less than half that,
maybe 600 grams for a Continental Cross King,
cross country tire.
Tire width.
So the volume of a tire
really makes a difference to how it rides.
So, big 2.4 versus a 2.2.
Definitely more compliance in those bigger tires,
depending on the pressure.
Rim width.
Big trend here is for getting wider rims now.
It does affect the shape of the tire.
So it could be a bit egg-shaped with a narrow rim,
which means it might roll around a bit more.
Wider rim makes a more stable tire.
So there are hundreds, maybe not hundreds,
but lots and lots of variables
that will affect the perfect tire pressure.
Have I missed any?
Heat, atmospheric pressure.
Tire inserts, lots of people run them now.
(screen beeps) Right, onto the tests.
The tires I've got on my Nukeproof Mega.
Upfront, I've got my Continental der Baron.
27.5, this bike.
2.4 upfront, quite a big tire.
On the back I've got the Trail King in a 2.3.
So this is my faster rolling setup
that I would use on enduro bikes.
The rear tire, it's pretty quick.
Don't mind pedaling that around.
However, if I'd of known I was doing this test,
on this track, in these conditions,
I'd probably of put the Baron on the back, as well.
'Cause they do offer just a bit more sort of, chunk to them.
I'm less like to puncture it, I think.
Just with more rubber, bit of a heavier tire,
bit more protected.
And I'm going to to start with my normal tire pressures.
So 28 on the rear, 26 up front.
Which has come down a couple of psi
from when I used to race,
just because now I'm not quite as fast as I used to be.
I'm not pushing the task quite as hard.
And I'm probably less likely it smash into rocks
(upbeat music)
Run one done, using the tire pressures that I know.
And to honest I've spent years riding and years racing
and these are the pressures I've come to from experience.
And, like I say, I've dropped a couple of psi
since I properly raced.
Now I'm running 28, 26.1.
Because I can get into those details,
I'm actually running these Quarq TyreWhizzes,
so super clever little things to help out this video.
They send my tire pressures digitally to my phone.
I can even set the parameter of where I want it,
plus or minus two psi,
and it flashes green to tell me I'm in that zone.
Even sends it to my Garmin.
So like I say, I got 26.1 in the front,
28.1 in the rear.
So for the sake of this test I'm going to now
reduce my tire pressures by 25%, which is a lot,
down 19 on the front and 21 on the rear.
But I have seen pro bike checks with other enduro riders
and know that they do run them that low sometimes.
So I've always wandered if I'm a bit conservative
with my tire pressures
and I've erred on the side of caution too much.
'Cause normally I feel like I'd rather run too hard,
just sacrifice a little bit of grip,
for having them be reliable
and know that I can make a mistake and slam into rock,
and hopefully get away with it.
But it's time to see if I can find some more grip
and get more feel with lower tire pressures.
(intense music)
Tell you what, already,
I'm not feeling those little rocky bumps quite as much.
Definitely getting some sort of dampening from the tires.
Feels a bit smoother.
Oh, does feel quite low on the back, actually.
Whoa, big compressions in those corners.
Where they're berms and they're bowled out, as well.
So that is where
you've really put a lot of pressure on the tires,
'cause you're squashing them in and pulling them around.
I can feel them, sort of, rolling a little bit.
Not enough to burp, but feel a bit of movement down there.
Right, I've rode the top, probably, quarter of the trailer,
and it just feels too soft to me.
Like, any small mistake feels like I am going to
just rip my back tire, especially.
So although it feels good, feels less rough on the trail.
Just feel like it's too risky for me, it's not worth it.
So I'd rather run more pressure in the back
and just lose a bit of grip.
I think it's going to be hardly anything on this trail,
in these conditions, it'll be like nothing, grip wise.
So for sake of security
and not getting stranded on this hillside,
got the pump, I'm going to put some more pressure in.
(intense music)
'Kay, so I've gone up to what I think is bit of compromise.
So I'm running 23 on the front, 26 on the back.
See how that feels.
And it doesn't feel like I've lost any grip for it,
but, whoa, who knows.
Whoa.
Oi.
Stuff like that,
where I can gap a bit.
And I've only been this trail couple times,
so I don't really know what's on the backside.
I feel just more confident.
'Cause if I jump and there is a rock there,
least I've got the harder tires
that I know can deal with it.
This is it.
(groans) Mean, that's so lose and dry.
Feels different to my front, back tire there.
I've a Baron on the front.
It digs into that dust, the rear one doesn't, as much.
And it's the rear one I'm tryna use
to slow down quite a lot.
Higher pressures mean a smaller contact point,
less grip and can feel harsh,
but they're more resistant to punctures from impact.
Lower pressures mean a larger contact point,
more grip, more compliance, but more tire squirm
and more likely to get impact punctures.
So I think the conclusion for me is
I'm going to lower them a little bit
and go down to a 27 and a 25.
So one psi lower than I normally am.
Maybe it's a bit of age,
I don't need them quite as hard as it used to,
but that feels about right for me.
And I'd rather lose a little bit of grip
and have a reliable tire that hopefully
will get to the bottom of the track in one piece.
If you want to see a video,
the tour of the Continental factory, see how tires are made.
That was super interesting one.
Over there for that one.
Another video on tire pressure over there.
Jack, have we got time for another run?
- Oh yes. - Needs tests again.
Right.
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