Hi everyone. So we have a nice Olympus microscope made in Japan
and we're going to clean it up and fabricate a light to replace the blown bulb here.
We're going to fix it up and let's see how we do.
So first off, I'm going to start by using some general wipes to clean the exterior.
When I start opening fittings, I don't want to put dust inside the lenses,
so I'm going to get clean the outside first and then I'm going to move the lenses at the end.
So we've got these isopropyl wipes here and I'm just going to go over all the surfaces.
I've got to undo some of the parts, so I've got some Allen keys over here
and fortunately they're all Allen keys.
I like Allen keys irrationally.
I don't have the Allen key to fit. I've got the Allen key and on this annoyingly large screwdriver.
So, this microscope has this interesting slide here on the bottom
that, if you rotate this, it goes this way,
and if you rotate this it goes this way and
this is all great because it lets me move the Allen keys into view.
Now we're going to clean all these parts in order.
So, this part has some sticky glue on it. As you can see, underneath it's quite gross.
I'm just aware of this slide...
Yep, yeah, that's there, that's the meeting edge with this so,
one down at that edge.
Ok, so all this crusty stuff is coming off really good.
That wasn't doing the business.
The table, when I rub this, is knocking on the wall a little bit.
I'm sure the next door neighbors are waiting for someone to walk in the door:
"Come in!"
Okay, so I'm getting close to the lenses.
I cleaned well...
Has a lot of dust, oh man.
There are, of course, better ways to clean microscopes.
I can't grub too hard here, because if I do, I risk getting lint inside the lens assembly.
I don't know how sealed it is.
And we have this assembly at the back, there's a decent chance we're just going to have to remake it.
As you can see there's a back plate for this.
This back plate here goes on to the back here and secures the lamp.
Those pieces that are chipped off, and I'm going to have to remake something.
So it's looking quite clean now.
So the specimen table is beautiful now.
Carefully put it on there try not to get any grease. Start off in a good condition.
And I can only gather that this doesn't have any alignment requirements.
And there's only two bolts. Not all that close fitting, quite loose actually.
Okay, so lets see how smooth it is.
Oh!
So this microscope, this knob adjusts the x-position,
this adjusts the y-position and
this adjusts the z-position.
- Dave: "Zed" man, "Zed', you ain't no yank.
And I assume this is fine adjustment.
There is actually a screw, stuck in there. What the hell.
There is a screw jammed in the assembly.
What the hell.
Let's just assume this doesn't do anything, because it's not screwed it into anything.
Now this stuff, should never be used on lenses or any glass or any optics or any surface that
needs to be residue free.
I basically only use this for the paint.
See, if this part actually comes off really quite nicely.
Then we have to think about how we're going to replace this light.
Okay, so if we put...
a torch through here, you'll notice the light is redirected through some sort of mirror assembly,
and here down to the work piece.
Okay! So I have been reunited with the power supply of doom.
Something that Dave challenged me to figure out once and really struggled with that.
Anyway, so here we go, turn it on. I found these LEDs: nice aluminium PCB,
good thermal dissipation properties these.
And I think this is going to be bright enough for at least some testings.
I've set a current limit on the power supply of about an amp, we'll see if it overheats.
We have some spares so.
All right, let's do this!
How do I turn it on?
On.
Enter.
Shift,
enter.
Shift,
on.
What did that do? Is it on?
All right, so it's really quite a bright LED. So, we're getting exactly an amp through this.
So now what I'm going to do is:
I'm going to figure out a jig that can hold this in some wire
and have a 3D-printed adjustment that can move it like this.
Floating in the middle of the wire, the heat will hold it to itself and I can bond heat sinks to the back of this,
to get a bit more thermal dissipation.
And once we have the thermal dissipation, we'll be able to leave it on for longer periods of time and
maybe even leave it on a higher setting.
So, I really think this is bright enough and I think we're good to go.
Okay, so we have this heatsink probably from a PT motherboard, or maybe a
North Bridge or some kind of chip on a motherboard.
And what I'm going to do is going to bond this to this, and then these will
clip into... these little naughty bits,
will clip into the 3d printed device.
I think it's going to be quite good.
And then we can actually just slide it.
We can slide it along here.
That will give us the positioning that we need.
It does require some finely positioning.
Exactly thirty millimeters on this. That's kind of weird, because they clearly got a metric dimension
using an Imperial socket cap bulbs.
But all right, so 30 millimeters precisely.
And how much room do we have to work with,
before the chamfer on the edge here?
And we've got 24 millimeters.
Okay, so I'm going into the package called "Onshape" to model the bracket.
The bracket is basically an extruded cylinder and I
make some nodges on the end, which I mount to a heatsink.
This will be 3d-printed and then I'll insert on the microscope.
Yeah! - Woohoo! Look at that!
Yeah, we need a spacer. We haven't put that in yet. - Right.
- The holes got a bit of 3d printing through.
- Look at that. Yeah, this is a bit hacky, we know, we know.
It could be engineered better, couldn't it David?
- Yeah, we need some thermal adhesives to do it there.
- Yep, yep, I think I've got some at home. I forgot to bring it in. Anyway.
- Okay. - We just want to see if it generally works.
- The baser fills in the gap for the cable part.
- Yep. - And now we're going to turn it on.
- Is it going to be focused? - Woohoo! There we go.
It could be further up up. Yeah let's go further up.
- When I push it up far enough, the whole thing falls at an angle.
Which means the angle it is being projected
- Oh okay, yep.
I was just packing up and I realized that the camera was much, much more grainy than it should have been.
Much more, and I think I know why.
We had a lens on here and previously, before we put the lens on, the whole thing was open.
Yeah, probably for a very long time.
They might not have, they might not have ever used this top, this top section up here.
Inside here, not sure you can see it, but it is just caked with dust.
So, it's far too deep in there for me to get a tissue paper in there.
So, I've been using this this lens cloth and I just haven't even touched the lens yet.
This is just the ring before the lens. Just one touch.
That is how dirty it is.
Okay, so now you can see it's quite clear through there.
We couldn't do that before.
It was just grey because it had that much dust.
Devices being tested by some probe.
There's a lot of probe points, my gosh, there must be a lot.
So there is also quite a lot of disagreement about whether to use cotton or synthetic wipes.
I can't really figure out the harder fiber and since I'm using cotton blends wipes,
I figure I might as well use pure cotton wool white tips.
So it seems like every man and his dog has his own opinions about which type of
cotton bud are acceptable for...
Internally there's a mechanism that opens this...
opens the window for the camera.
And that window is the section with the dirt.
And it seems it has glass between it, so it's dirty inside, so it has to be opened up.
- Now for cleaning microscope lenses and optics,
unfortunately there seems to be a lot of variability on what people and company recommend.
Like experts recommend in this field.
But generally it's a multi-step process. The first is to use a bulb.
One of those blowing bulbs that just cleans loose dirt and things off the lens.
But if you've got really solid compact dirt on your lens,
then you want to generally as a first step, usually recommended distilled water,
and then to go on to more solvent based things like isopropyl alcohol.
You've got to use the hundred percent kind.
And Carl Zeiss for example, they actually recommend 85 percent petroleum ether,
which is generally benzene or rubbing alcohol, mixed with 15 percent isopropanol.
So that's just their own mixture. Others recommend just isopropyl or, you know, they've got their own special cleaning solution.
But generally any sort of alcohol like that should generally do the job.
Now, you shouldn't use acetone, because that will attack the plastics.
And of course the first time you're trying to get the solid dirt off the lens, if it's really caked on,
then you want to use pure cotton buds.
And you don't want to rub the cotton buds back and forth.
You just want to do one swipe and then rotate it and then swipe it again
and use a clean surface for every swipe of the cotton bud.
Because otherwise, if you keep the dirt on there, and you rub
it back and forth, you're just rubbing the dirt into the lens.
You don't want that, because you end up putting micro scratches in the lens and the coatings
and all that sort of stuff.
- I made sure nothing's in here, because anything in here will go in there.
There's no lens in here, so I'm just going to feed this microfiber cloth through it.
Now, that has obviously put fibers in there.
I get these out. I'm cleaning this one more time.
Again, so it go a few specs of dust since I cleaned it.
And I haven't cleaned the inside with Windex.
It really does a tremendous job compared to the isopropyl.
So, this lens here I'm going to clean it again.
Last time I stated there was something, maybe damage, to this one.
Turns out it wasn't damaged, it was something adhered to it.
I don't know, maybe someone sneezed on it a few years ago?
But it was just caked on and isopropyl didn't get it off, but the Windex did.
So now it's looking beautiful.
Yeah, it looked almost like an epoxy, but Windex wouldn't remove epoxy.
Time to use some wafers!
Alright.
Thank you again whoever sent this in the mail bag. You are a legend.
I think that's really awesome.
So I've got this other wafer.
Actually, thought it is much more interesting than the one I'm looking at now:
this is the test piece, this one here.
I suppose for testing the manufacturing process.
This one's, I think, an actual wafer. That's much more interesting.
Now I should be able to swap lenses, while staying in focus.
Ah, pretty close...
So that's, from 40 to 20. Thank you, AT&T.
Look at the sensitivity of this. Notice the screen is shaking.
It's probably the aircon system.
All people walking around the building.
So, I'm just going to stamp my foot. Not hard but, just near it.
Absolutely requires very solid foundations to operate.
Truck goes by, I'm sure this shakes.
Okay, I noticed that it was still kind of... a bit, had like a...
film or something on it.
The actual wafer had had been quite dirty, so I cleaned it.
Now it's... the film has gone away.
I don't know. I think this is a win.
So, for the light assembly, I basically use one of those
LED... these power LEDs on the aluminium PCB.
I put some thermal compound between this and a random motherboard heatsink,
and just shoved it in a constant current source.
So, I just cable tied these on there. I could probably use some thermal adhesive,
but cable ties are fine; hold it on pretty tight.
And yeah, now I'm not really having any overheating problems.
LM317, yeah those can make current sources of about a Watt,
so that should be exactly what we need.
Okay, so we've got our 317 and a couple resistors and a capacitor.
That's all that's needed for an LM317 current source.
All you do, for an LM317 current source is:
you tie this to the middle pin; That's the output.
And then all you need to do is tie it to the adjust pin, which is probably pin 1.
I think that's this pin. I got it over here:
Pin one is the adjust.
Yeah, so it's pretty simple.
Then we're going to solder this.
Okay, so it's all soldered now.
Now we're just going to snip off the excess leads and then we're gonna hook it up.
Okay, so I don't really want to be soldering to the pins in the middle,
so I'm going to kind of literally cut them off.
This is kind of bodgie I soldered the USB connector,
and usually the USB connector itself would be supported by a circuit board PCB,
and that would take the strain.
In this case nothing's really supporting it, so I'm going to have to put some hot melt,
which will kind of relieve strain on the cables and stop this from snapping off over time.
Okay, the hot melt has been neatened up a little bit.
So now I'm ready to join it to the constant current source.
Just checking the polarity of the connector. Can't be bothered to check the datasheet.
Time to mark the ground. Now what we have is the constant current source.
I've got it just connected to the Amp range here.
And there it is, connected to the USB pack. And we're getting 300 milliamps, just as we should.
Just going to attach a heatsink to the thing.
The first test is: if this battery pack turns on its shorted.
Okay, it doesn't, so it should turn on when I plug this into the Amp setting.
Okay, that's the Amp range. Are you going to turn on? Yes, you do!
300 milliamps, we're good.
I've finished the little package and here's the constant current source.
Here it's measuring the current.
I changed it from a micro USB connector to a cord because the micro USB connector,
I kind of filled with glue.
So here we go, nice and neat. And let's go plug it in.
So the lights is on the device and it's on right now.
You can see that tiny, white dot at the bottom. Probably not.
There we go. Plugged into the computer's USB port.
So now we don't have to have a huge power supply here.
- Winner!