Let’s face it.
Caring for a dog, cat, or other furry friend can be a lot of work.
Among other things, they have to be fed, groomed (although cats self-groom), entertained, exercised,
and taken to the vet regularly—and let’s not mention the constant cleaning involved.
So, how ‘bout a reptile?
For those who don’t have the time or budget to devote to a domesticated animal, getting
a reptile may seem like a wise choice—but not all reptiles are cut from the same cloth.
In this edition of Animal Facts, we’re shining the “UV light” on our top 5 high-maintenance
reptiles.
5.
Chameleon
Who wouldn’t want a chameleon as a pet?
They’re cute as can be with big, saucer-like eyes that can move independently of each other,
a long, sticky tongue that can snatch prey faster than any bug zapper, five toes that
are fused together in groups of two or three pointing in opposite directions which allows
them to grip branches with ease, and the ability to change color in response to environmental
changes or shifts in emotion.
Like “mood rings,” many chameleons have the ability to change colors, morphing into
vivid combinations and varying shades of green, blue, red, purple, yellow, black, brown, orange,
and pink—but not only are chameleons pretty, they’re also pretty cool.
They quietly go about their days, minding their own business…well, until it’s time
to eat.
So, it’s only natural to be charmed by the chameleon’s uniqueness and peaceful demeanor
even if they require more care than the average pet reptile.
First of all, your chameleon must be kept in a large enclosure furnished with sturdy
branches in a variety of diameters for climbing.
The space should be free of small particles and fragments such as sand, gravel, pebbles,
moss, or wood shavings.
Since they have the ability to catch prey in the blink of an eye, this will prevent
your buddy from ingesting pieces accidentally picked up with their meal.
Also, chameleons are very sensitive to heat and cold, so they must be kept in an environment
with a certain temperature range depending on their species.
To keep your buddy comfortable, you’ll need a thermometer, basking lights, and a water
mister.
Chameleons also need exposure to natural UVA and UVB rays, so be sure to place the enclosure
near an open window to let a little sunshine in whenever you can.
A steady supply of varied insects will be necessary, as they are the staple of the chameleon’s
diet.
Gut-loaded delicacies like mealworms, wax worms, wax moths, crickets, and superworms
provide ideal nourishment, as well as small amounts of fruit, veggies, and leafy greens
other than lettuce, cabbage, and spinach.
Certain large chameleons may also eat pinkie mice.
To prevent vitamin deficiencies, generously sprinkle the food with powdered reptile supplements
such as calcium with vitamin D3 or multivitamins.
Fun Fact: Chameleons stay hydrated by drinking water from droplets on leaves, so get a mister,
drip, or spray bottle to quench your pal’s thirst.
4.
Sulcata Tortoise
Typically, reptile people aren’t thought of as warm and fuzzy types, but there are
those who melt at the sight of an adorable little Sulcata Tortoise hatchling.
They don’t consider that they may end up with a pet that’s too big for their backyard,
and no money or time to care for it, and since they can live more than 70 years, there’s
a good chance their tortoise will outlive them.
A Sulcata’s housing needs will evolve as they grow.
A hatchling or young tortoise can be kept in an aquarium or storage bin equipped with
substrate, places for digging and hiding, and an adequate water supply.
The daytime temperature should be kept between 80 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 degrees
at night.
Tortoises require 12 to 14 hours of light including access to a UVB light source.
Eventually, your torti will outgrow its original “digs” and will have to be moved outdoors.
The outside space should be surrounded by a strong fence or wall that is at least two
feet high, and since Sulcatas are the terriers of the reptile world, the barrier should be
entrenched about two feet into the ground to keep them from digging out.
You’ll need to be sure the enclosure has ample shade, shelter (a large doghouse or
custom-built shed), and a heat lamp for when the temperature drops to 50 degrees Fahrenheit
or below.
Sulcatas spend most of their days grazing, mainly on grasses and hay.
You can include an occasional treat of hibiscus flowers and leaves, and grape or mulberry
leaves.
Too much protein in their diet can lead to “pyramiding,” of the shell.
Limit your torti to small amounts of fruit and veggies to prevent or control overgrowth.
Fun fact: It is usually not a good idea to house male Sulcata Tortoises together.
They can become very territorial and try to flip each other.
A tortoise flipped on its shell cannot breathe properly and will suffocate if it isn’t
turned over promptly.
3.
Green Iguana
With prehistoric good looks, a sturdy build, a simple, herbivorous diet, and a sleep schedule
that resembles ours, the green iguana may seem like the pet for you—and it just maybe,
as long you’re not a rookie.
The first thing to consider is that all small iguanas become big iguanas.
Adults can grow to be between 50 and 72 inches long, reaching full size at seven years old,
and weighing up to 20 pounds.
To move comfortably, your iguana will need a large terrarium or tank outfitted with UV
bulbs, climbing areas, and a bathing pool.
Most pet stores don’t carry enclosures large enough to house an iguana, so you’ll probably
need to have one custom-made.
Iguanas are cold-blooded in more ways than one.
They are usually extremely difficult to train and unlike some other reptiles, they are not
affectionate and don’t like to be touched.
But if you get your bud as a wee lizard, you can train them more easily and get them to
tolerate touch through early socialization.
They won’t like it—but they’ll put up with it.
That said, iguanas are not suitable for younger children and older kids should only interact
with an iguana when supervised by an adult.
Fun Fact: An iguana has powerful jaws, sharp teeth, and a very strong tail.
If they sense danger, or if someone tries to grab their tail, they won’t hesitate
to bite or use it as a whip.
2.
Caiman
Caimans are part of the Alligator family and they live up to their family values in every
way—except size.
With the exception of the male Black Caiman which grows to an average of 13 feet, they
are smaller than alligators but are still difficult to keep as a pet.
Even the smallest caiman, Cuvier’s dwarf, can grow to be five feet.
All caimans require spacious accommodations similar to their natural environment…in
other words, they are better off outside.
A large, secure enclosure similar to those used by zoos should be provided.
It should have a sizable pool area and of course, be located in a warm climate.
Inside enclosures should be equipped with an adequate heating source.
Although caimans eat a wide range of fish and meats, they don’t need to feed on live
prey.
Regardless, the cost of heating and feeding a caiman can be quite expensive.
No matter how big or small a caiman is, it can be very dangerous to handle.
They don’t crave closeness to humans, and as members of the alligator family, they possess
a fierce bite.
Fun Fact: Because they are classified as dangerous, a permit is usually required to keep a pet
caiman.
1.
Python
Sure, a snake would look cool draped around your neck.
But caring for a large snake such as the rock, Burmese, or reticulated python can be very
expensive and also quite dangerous in inexperienced hands.
Like the other reptiles on our list, the python must be kept in a spacious, temperature-controlled
enclosure supplied with appropriate lighting, clean water for drinking and bathing, inedible
substrate, plants, and wood they can use to conceal themselves when not in the mood for
company.
In the wild, a python’s diet consists of various protein sources including large rodents,
small to medium mammals, and even large lizards.
Juvenile pet pythons feed mainly on small rats, mice, and other rodents that have been
frozen and thawed, but as your snake gets larger, its appetite will too.
Before long, you’ll need to stock the freezer with more filling fare, such as large rabbits.
Fortunately, they’ll only need one big meal every 4 to 6 weeks.
So, be sure to mark your calendar, because you won’t want to be in the same space with
a hungry python that has its eyes on you...
Although there have been accounts of pythons eating humans, it is extremely rare.
The only python large enough to swallow a human whole is the reticulated python, which
can reach lengths of up to 26 feet in captivity, and 30 feet or more in the wild.
However, all pythons use constriction to kill prey and to defend themselves, so they are
not good pets for newbie snake handlers—and oldies should never be lax when interacting
with them or securing enclosures.
Fun Fact: Wild pythons can live to be over 30 years old.