Here are the basics of building a six-foot, DIY bookshelf and some
embellishments you can add to make it a bit more stylish. It's best to start by
pre-cutting all the lumber you'll need for your project. We'll provide the exact
dimensions, as well as a tools and materials list at the end of the video.
Begin by taking the two 6-foot boards you cut to serve as the side panels, and
lay them side by side. Check that they're flush at both the top and bottom. Make
marks on each side panel at three and a quarter, fourteen and three eighths, 28
and thirteen sixteenths, forty three and three sixteenths, and fifty seven and
five-eighths. These lines mark the locations for the shelves. Next, move on
to the five pre-cut shelves. These will be of equal length. The longer sixth
board will serve as the top frame of the bookcase. You'll need to cut a pocket at
each of the four corners using a pocket hole jig and a clamp. When drilling
pocket holes, set the pocket hole depth on the jig to match the thickness of the
material you will be drilling through. In this case, 3/4 of an inch. Then, also
adjust the depth collar on the fit to 3/4 of an inch.
Use an allen wrench to loosen and tighten the collar as needed. The setting
should be measured from the shoulder of the drill bit, not the tip. The shoulder
is where the wider cutting edge of the drill bit begins. It's best to use the
outer edge of the jig as a spacer and to drill the pockets using the hole
farthest from the edge of the shelf. If you drill pockets too close to the
corners, you may split the wood. When done, set the shelves aside. Now begin
assembling the bookshelf by attaching the shelves to one of the two side
panels. Start with the top frame of the bookshelf. Apply a bead of wood glue
along the edge of the top frame. Check that the edges are flush and attach it
with a brad gun. You can use a hammer and nails, but using a nail gun will speed
the job and recess the nails. Now move on to the bottom shelf. Apply
glue to the edge and, with the pocket holes facing downwards, place it on the
lowest mark you made earlier as guides for the shelves. Check that the edges are
flush with the edges of the side panels and drive one-and-a-quarter-inch screws
into the pocket holes. Repeat this process for the rest of the shelves,
lining up the bottom of each shelf with the guidelines. Once all the shelves are
attached to the one side panel, apply a bead of glue to the unattached edge of
each shelf. Place the second side panel into position. Apply glue to the top edge
and use the brad nailer to attach the top frame. Adjust each shelf as needed
and position a clamp so the shelf doesn't shift while driving in the
pocket screws. Drill pocket holes into the sides of the toe kick. Use the rubber
mallet to tap the toe kick into place./ This toe kick can be centered between
the side panels to give the bottom shelf added stability, or it can be recessed
three inches from the front of the bottom shelf for a more finished
appearance. Attach with one-and-a-quarter-inch pocket screws. With the basic frame
of the bookshelf complete, move on to the face frames. Attach the pre-cut one-by-twos
to the frame using glue and clamps, and then drive in nails. These nails
should be centered on the edge of the side panels, not the center of the face
frame. The face frame will overlap the side panel three-quarters of an inch. It
should be flush with the outer edges of the top bottom and sides of the
bookshelf. The two side boards should be sandwiched between the top and bottom
one-by-twos. To give your bookshelf a more formal look, trim the top with
molding. The front, left, and right molding pieces can be joined using 45-degree
miter cuts. Attach the molding using glue and nails.
The joints don't need to fit perfectly. Any small gaps can be corrected with
wood filler. Also, attach molding to the edges of each shelf. If you plan to stain
your bookshelf, choose wood molding. MDF molding won't hold stain properly;
however, MDF is fine if you plan to paint your bookshelf. To conceal any visible
pocket holes and screws, apply glue to each pocket hole plug and insert them
into the holes, After the glue dries and the project is complete, any excess plug
above the surface will be sanded off. Fill all nail holes with wood filler and
allow it to dry. Sand the entire bookshelf with 220-grit sandpaper, and
you're ready to paint or stain. Position the pre-cut underlayment on the back of
the bookshelf, checking that it's flush with all the edges. It's best to apply
whatever finish you choose to the back panel before attaching it to the
bookshelf. The panel is then attached to the frame with nails. To add some flair
to your bookshelf, you can paint the back panel a complementary or contrasting
color. It's a great way to tie the piece in with the rest of your decor or try
adding wallpaper to the back panel. Here
are all the materials you'll need to build your DIY bookshelf.
Here is a cut list for the lumber needed to complete this project.
And lastly, you'll need the following tools for the job.
For more detailed information about this and many other projects check out the
DIY projects and ideas section of homedepot.com
or talk to one of our store associates. To find out more about these plans for
building a DIY bookshelf, check out our guide on homedepot.com or to browse our
wide selection of materials featured in this video click here.