In this video, we will walk through caliper mounting and adjustment for dual pivot brakes,
as well as dual symmetric rim brakes.
Make sure you're watching the caliper mounting and adjustment video that matches your brake type.
If you're not sure what you're dealing with, watch this video.
The dual pivot brakes pull from the side, with each arm having a separate pivot.
In one arm the pivot is centered, in the other arm the pivot is to the side.
The dual symmetric pivot caliper looks similar. It is pulled from the side.
However, each arm has its own pivot on the side.
The process for both brake systems is nearly identical,
so we'll walk through the more common dual pivot system, and highlight the difference for the dual symmetric system.
Typical tools and supplies may include:
hex wrenches and a combination wrench for brake caliper mounting and pad adjustment,
a cable stretcher such as the Park Tool BT-2,
torque wrench and bits to make sure things are properly tight,
a screwdriver for brake centering,
and a cable cutter for cable trimming and end cap installation.
The calipers secure to the frame with a threaded stud and nut.
Next, we install the wheel and make sure it is fully seated, centered, secured and true.
Hold the brake centered to the rim, and secure the nut to manufacturer's specifications,
typically 6-7 newton meters.
Getting the calipers close to center now helps with adjustments later.
Feed the cable through the barrel adjuster, and through the pinch mechanism.
Back the barrel adjuster out two or three turns to allow for later adjustments.
Make sure the quick release is in the closed position.
Squeeze the pads to the rim and secure the pinch bolt to manufacturer's specifications,
typically 6-7 newton meters.
We've removed the tire here so the cameras can get a better view.
An important pad setting is height. For dual pivot calipers, we pay attention to the swing.
This arm is moving upward to the rim,
so the lower edge of the pad should strike the lower edge of the braking surface.
As the pad thins and wears, it'll move up the rim surface.
The other arm is moving downward toward the rim.
Set the top edge of the brake pad to the top edge of the braking surface,
but never so high that it contacts the tire.
On the dual symmetric system, both arms of the caliper move upward as they approach the rim.
Set both sides low on the braking surface.
This is the only procedural difference between the dual symmetric caliper and the dual pivot caliper,
so from here on, we'll work only with the dual pivot system.
Other pad settings include adjusting the face of the pad to match the face of the rim,
although not all pad systems allow for this alignment.
There's also tangent: we want to make sure the front and back edge of the pad are even
and finally there's toe, which adjusts the pad so there is a slight gap at the back.
Setting toe in the pad can help reduce brake squeal,
but if the brake doesn't squeal when ridden, toe is not needed.
A useful way to achieve toe is to apply a shim at the back of the pad using a rubber band.
Note that your pads need to have a convex and concave spacer system for this to work.
We squeeze the lever gently and loosen the pad screw.
The pad will self align because of the gentle pressure we're adding at the lever.
Secure the pad to manufacturer's specification - typically 5 Newton meters.
We remove the rubber band and we have our toe.
Another way to add toe is simply to loosen the pad, manipulate the arm, hold it, and re-secure the pad.
A test to see if it's tight enough is to try and twist the pad.
Twist hard with one hand, and if it doesn't move, it's tight enough.
Now we set pad clearance.
Begin by pulling the lever with force to test the cable pinch bolt and settle in the cable system.
Next we set pad clearance, which is the gaps between the rim and the pads.
Don't worry about centering the pads, that will come next.
Set pad clearance not by looking at the gaps, but by feel up at the lever.
A brake that is too tight will mean that we are just barely squeezing the lever
and the pads immediately contact the rim.
In this case we bring the barrel adjuster down into the brake,
which gives us more cable slack, and moves the pads away from the rim.
On a brake that is too loose, you'll squeeze the lever and nearly contact the handlebar
here we won't have enough stopping power. We never want to touch or get close to the handlebar.
We turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise, drawing out slack and bringing the pads closer to the rim.
This is adequate - the pads strike the rim with at least an inch of travel left at the lever,
and we have enough space between the pads and rim to allow easy centering.
Normally, front and rear brakes are set to feel the same.
We will now center the pads to the rim.
Depending on the model, there are different techniques to do this.
Some models will have a centering screw on the side. Use this screw to move both pads left or right.
If the brake looks centered, it is centered.
Some models lack a centering screw.
In this case, we move the brake with two wrenches:
one on the centering flats, and another wrench on the mounting nut.
Move both wrenches the same direction, and the same amount.
Finish by trimming the cable and installing an end cap.
We only need enough cable to grab with a fourth hand, a little over an inch is fine.
And this brake is ready to go. I mean stop.
And that concludes the process for brake caliper mounting and adjustment.
If you're looking for help on a different procedure relating to rim brakes, we've got a whole series
and watch this video for an explanation of how we've organized our rim brake video content.
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