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setting up your bike
most of these tips are the same as men
here is set up but some may help for a
more tiles based approach to riding
across trainer when it comes to your
handlebars the default position is your
hand grips should be in line with your
front forks if the bars are too close
and there's a tendency to go forward
over the bars too easily on a descent
and you're steering them on slower
however if they're too far forward then
you may not be able to move back to
borrowing up the steep declines and your
steering will become quite quick the
cross-training it could be worth
experimenting with the bars slightly
forward as it increases your stability
eg picture your feet shoulders and hands
as a triangle and also the fastest
steering might help in slow technical
drain if you're a tall freak of nature
you might want to install bar risers or
handlebars with a high bend and if
you're a real cheap ass you'll probably
use a block of alloy like this and if
you're assured us you can also get an
aftermarket seat or even just cut down
your existing seat 9 and get the seat
recovered position your hand levers so
that when standing your arms don't need
to move up and down to use the levers
most riders generally have them between
30 and 45 degrees from horizontal as
you'll be standing on the pegs most of
the time with cross-training
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if you don't use a set of our customers
a little trials trick is to position
your levers in wood along the bars so
that your bars will hit the ground first
instead of the leaders most of the time
it lessens the chance of breaking
leaders and you can also loosen the
lever mounts enough so they'll twist on
impact instead of breaking hopefully
some riders reckon if you go over the
bars but don't let go you could break
your wrists or arms
sounds pretty unlikely but some reckon
it does happen if you're worried you
could angle your bar Busters down a
little bit as well just to lessen the
chances when it comes to your gearshift
and rear brake pedals it can be an idea
to have these actually a little bit
above the horizontal line from your foot
pegs it not only keeps both of these
pedals out of the way and a bit less out
of danger but will also make the rear
brake easier to cover in some of the
more advanced techniques there's always
plenty of debate about tire pressures a
part of the reason trials bikes get
incredible grip is they're only running
six psi in the front and four in the
rear that's just not possible one of the
but you can keep your pressures low
enough to get very good traction if you
are only cross-training eg a slow Trials
quest style of riding then 10 psi
probably isn't a bad pressure to aim for
you'll get great grip and you shouldn't
run the risk of institute's as long as
you're not hitting roots or rocks hard
and fast there's plenty of info about
how to set up your dirt bike suspension
but the interesting aspect of enduro
bikes is that the way they setup
actually works against some cross
training igneous trials bikes have very
soft suspension with much less damping
so the bikes can literally be bounced
around as you work your way through
cross training techniques keep in mind
it might pay to have a play with the
damping settings for example experiment
with family life on all your compression
and rebound settings just make sure you
keep a note of what your original
settings were and make sure you crank it
all up again before you start the ride
bike fling is there any of it that might
actually help you write better a few of
us have found the Stig's pegs absolutely
brilliant
for anchoring us on the bike and
reducing arm pump and fatigue mind you
other riders hate them to bits if you
want to check it out see our video
review here
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