hey robot fans welcome back to the build today we get dirty the weathering
process for me is broken up into two stages the first of which is the washer
stage we're gonna be doing a lot of paint washes with this liquitex black
acrylic paint this is the same paint I use to do all the black on the helmet
we're gonna be using a solo cup any red party college solo cup will do or if you
have a daughter who likes pretty princess parties a purple one will work
as well a lot of paintbrushes I have big medium and small paintbrushes with hard
bristles soft bristles and medium bristles I'm not sure which one I'm
going to be using the most but I have a whole bunch here paper towels you're
going to need dry paper towels and wet paper towels some that will get dirty
some little stay relatively clean and lastly I have a turntable here to put
the helmet on you can buy these at most grocery stores at least in the US these
are like spice rack lazy susans they're pretty cheap and they work great for
giving you some movement around the helmet my start condition for the paint
goes like this I add just a little bit of black paint to the bottom maybe just
a drop or two and want this hanging off there you go and then I add a good
amount of water you really want to dilute it quite a bit now this paint
we're gonna mix together so we're gonna get like a nice dirty water but it's
very loose very very runny and then on top of all of this we're gonna put a
really big fat glob of paint inside that we're not going to mix together so this
way there's a pretty good glob of paint at the bottom of the water which we
could dip into further and further depending on how thick we want our
application to be the wash layer is pretty simple what you're gonna do is
apply very very watery paint over the entire helmet and just keep wiping it
away washing it with paint and wiping it away and what this is gonna do is kind
of add a little tinge to the helmet and what you want to do is wipe away from
the center out leaving more of the material on the edges of the helmet as
opposed to the center and this is going to create a sort of a vignette effect if
we pause the video here I could show you the effect that we're going for if I
trace the outline the helmet and then apply a blur filter
you could see that we create this vignette effect where it's darkest near
the edges and gets lighter and lighter as you move away from that edge this is
what we're going for with this part of the weathering after your first few wash
layers going over the entire helmet you can really accentuate the vignette
effect by just focusing your washes towards the edges that being said you
don't really want to rush this you want to build up many many subtle layers
that's what gives a realistic weathering effect when you feel like you've done
enough wash layers you could start doing a dry brush technique this is a little
different in that the brush will be mostly dry and you'll just be dabbing
paint along the edges and then still wiping it off in the same manner this
will leave a lot more paint in its path so you want to be a little bit careful
and be really subtle with this you don't want to do too much too fast
obviously you're gonna want to do this around your entire helmet I'm just
showing you this one section so we can get through all the techniques if we
pause the video here I could show you the next stage of weathering that I did
what I really wanted to do is accentuate the edge so if we trace out the contour
again and use a lot less of a blur you could see you can really get a fine
contour line to get this I used an airbrush I bought an airbrush kit off
Amazon I think for the compressor paint and the brushes it all came to like 50
bucks definitely well worth the purchase and honestly no secret here I just did a
light touch all around all of the edges of the helmet and this really brought
out all of the weathering that I had already done I also did the final
install of the gravy's so they can get their proper weathering as well I'm
presenting this to you in a very linear way but I did a lot of back and forth
between the washes and the dry brushing and the airbrushing and then going back
to washing and just taking on big chunks at a time and then going back and doing
very localized weathering bitch just for different parts that I didn't like the
way they looked I would do multiple washes or multiple sessions with the
airbrush there's really no rhyme or reason to the order that I did things in
the end I probably did five rounds of each technique over various different
spots of the helmet to get the look that I wanted next up is the rust coloration
around the ears to do this I'm going to be using Americana brand acrylic paints
I have traditional raw Sienna and traditional burnt sienna I'm attacking
this the same way I did the rest of the helmet with the black I'm just gonna do
some light washes with both of these rust colors and then move straight into
dry brushing the effect is going to be mostly dry brushed
on because that gives you a nice texture as well as mixing the colors nicely I
really like the way it looks the only question I have is how far do I want to
go with the rusting of the ear I decide just to kind of go for it and do
whatever I feel like I can always knock it back later so I go pretty heavy on
the ear portion and move all the way down to the cheek just adding rust here
and there I did some light airbrushing over the rust paint just to give it some
light spot some dark spots and some dirt so it matches the rest of the helmet I
had been weathering the macro binoculars in parallel to the helmet so I added
those in and continued the rust up the stems of the macro binoculars at this
point the rust is getting pretty thick I think I went a little further than I
want for the end result I like the overall look in the overall color I just
think the volume of color is a little bit more than I think I want so I got a
great recommendation to use some high grit sandpaper I actually used 400 just
to kind of knock back the color it reduced the saturation quite a bit it
blended the colors a little bit and it also gave a nice chipping effects that
looks pretty realistic next I used a very soft bristle brush to make some
drips of the rust color this will give it an overall rustier look without
necessarily having the heavy texture of the dry brush I spent a good bit of time
doing some detailing work after the main sections were done I filled in a lot of
the Battle Damage with extra dirt I airbrushed sections of the back that I
thought needed more detail there were a lot of little areas that bothered me
that I spent a lot of time on I just wanted it to be perfect before I can say
I was done with all my painting done I can apply my clear coat for this I am
using krylon matte finish spray I do two coats of this on the helmet and the
binoculars with the clear coat done we can add the final two pieces of the
helmet which are the teeth mesh and the visor I decided to 3d print my teeth
mesh I could have probably bought something from Amazon but I liked the
idea of putting as much custom 3d printed stuff on here as I can these
were a breeze to print out and I cut them into smaller pieces that will fit
the teeth I did a round of Bob Smith industries CLA glue to glue them into
place and then I took a hot glue gun and just kind of
the edges a little bit so I wouldn't be brushing up against a sharp edge of
plastic next up is the visor I used a welder's replacement mask I cut it to
shape and then hot glued it into place I reinstalled the macro binoculars added
back on the Grebe's and we are done
yes I did another DIY photo shoot just like in the last video you can see all
of these photos on my Instagram account which is a great place to see what
happens in between the videos as well alright that's it for this video thanks
for tuning in next time will be the final helmet video we're going to
install the electronics into the head this muffled voice will be amplified for
the entire Republic we're going to put some fans in some lights and an internal
padding system so this thing fits a little bit better you'll stay tuned for
that as always we're going to finish with a little progression shot so I'll
see you next time