Hi, I'm Kirby Allison. I'm excited to be here in New York City at the new
Huntsman Cutting Room a groundbreaking facility that's just a little less than a year old right now.
I'm with Ralph Fitzgerald the US cutter.
Thank you so much for having us. Thank you we've had an incredible tour
of the cutting room here and one of the things that that we're going to talk
about today is the details of the Huntsman silhouette the Huntsman house
style I mean of course Huntsman is is incredibly well known for quality but
they're also equally well known for having one of the three kind of iconic
you know instantly recognizable silhouettes and so you know why don't
you kind of walk us through some of those elements
yeah the Huntsman silhouette is actually based on two classic wardrobe essentials
one beer a hacking jacket or riding coat and the other dinner suit or a tuxedo so
elements from the Huntsman cope the slanted pockets which are definitely
elements from a riding jacket as when you're on a saddle it's easy for the for
the where to get their hands in their pockets also it's a longer coat and the
side vent is actually quite high up on the coat again leads back to the Riding
coat of being able to cover the saddle so if a normal coat you normally comes
down to about kind of the the crook of your fingers
how much longer where the Huntsman could be well we actually work it out
differently than that what we do we actually take a measurement from the
nape of the neck to the floor and we have that measurement and nowadays we
actually take half an inch off of that that is the classic Huntsman way of
actually cutting it and it would result in a slightly longer say what someone
else would kosher the answer Marco is classically a solo
button a one button and that derives from the tuxedo the dinner suit and it's
actually quite a low buttoning position and that comes from the whole dinner
suit aspect of that contrast between your white shirt and your midnight or
black bear Thea cloth you want to have the contrast of the two cloth and
actually I mean a one button stance is actually the most difficult yes a button
stands to cut because you have less control everything hasher me it needs to
be more delicately for sure yeah that's how it's it's it's worked out you how we
take that measurement is from your nape of your neck to your natural waist here
and that if you were to run your thumb along the back of the customer and it's
the position here if you when I take the measurement I actually run my thumb and
it's the point on my on the customers back weight actually makes them lean
forward naturally okay this is obviously the
center of gravity and then you would take that around and that would be and
it's five oh five eighths of an inch up from that point and that's how generally
you find that measure now one of the other hallmarks of a huntsman suit
especially relative to like something from Anderson and Shepherd is it a very
clean front very good no drape at all be any drape in the in the chest and it's a
very strong shoulder with no roping either which you would see out of
something like from chief and le yes exactly
a square shoulder and a square shoulder there is slight rope to it but not as
dramatic as you as you mentioned and then what about the kind of just the
gorge positioning in the gorge that we cut is actually quite low down compared
to maybe something like the European tailors some of the Italian tailors it's
also quite a square notch that we cut square I mean compared to the bridle
here the actual and lapel width that's worked
out through the chest size that the chest measurement taken on the customer
so it's all worked out through scale when I take you through to the cutting
remote explain how I work this out everything has to be balanced are you
pinching the wasted are yes it is a wasted garment we're creating it's not
soft tailoring this is almost military looking the what aspects of it is
military looking that's what you want you're enhancing someone's form that's
what we're trying to do so it's not as like military assay is something from
Gibbs and Hawk know you know but it but it has that kind of military heritage
and the fact that you know equestrian coming from the cavalry you know it has
yeah obviously elements of it so whenever you're cutting a huntsman I
mean you know what are you what do you have in your mind's eye of the
silhouette you're trying to cut you know in order to you know again really kind
of communicate that huntsman that huntsman shape well you want to
complement the wearer's form and actually the house cut lends itself to
it naturally having these slant pockets and the one button is actually drawing
your eye naturally to the to the wearer's smallest smallest point which
is actually yeah slimming and and then does the you know does the slightly
longer jacket again with the long lapel roll to the one button it probably
elongates the silhouette also definitely definitely said very elegant and then
what about on the back so I mean of course clean back right I mean this is a
form but you know the high vents you know you mentioned earlier anything else
about kind of the aesthetic here that you know you'd say is unique to the
Huntsman you've got a beer back drape for ease of movement okay
you need that you see nowadays lots of younger suit wearers which this it's
just to clean you need that quarter of an inch beside of of these to actually
be able to move comfortably in the government also another thing I forgot
to mention our armhole is actually cut pretty high
again that derives from the hacking Jackie all the riding jacket so that
when you're when when the wear was on on the saddle you can actually move in the
jacket comfortably you want to get that ammo as high up as possible to get
daylight through the side seams but also to be comfortable and how is that demo
imagine that it's easier said than done I mean what are the challenges and kind
of achieving that high armhole fitting the customer really and getting your
your patterns right that we take a measurement can show you really
something a bit like this see the tape around the customer and then shoot right
up under the arms and then that translate to this mark here then you'll
measure down from the nape to this point and that's how you establish that depth
okay at the same time you want it to be high up but you want it to be
comfortable at the same time what a beautiful jacket so I guess next year
we'll go back into the cutting room and you can actually show us how some of the
elements end up on the pattern put it if you enjoyed this video give us a thumbs
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